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      10-17-2012, 09:51 PM   #23
Geauxkart
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The length was close but doable, no doubt. I did the welding and fab myself, and I take my time and "do it right" per many hours of research. (All SS bungs / fittings / filler rod too!)

Yes, I have an OBDII scanner and it's clear.
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      10-17-2012, 10:27 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
Interesting.....
Since you ran headers w/o a tune for a while.
Did you find the the tune made a significant difference ?
Honestly, it was noticeable, but not a huge change. Unfortunately I didn't do before/after dynos like I should have; work was crazy busy at the time. The stock DME can do a lot of adapting on its own. Should be about as big a change as gferil's dyno that he posted today.

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Originally Posted by JeffchaPz View Post
Anyone knows if we can buy post/down stream O2s with 4-5 feet of wire? this way we won't have to cut them? Then again if a tune can fix the problem then I rather put the $$ towards the tune.

How much is a tune that can fix that problem now days?
Look in crfine88's build thread. He actually explains how he built extenders, best solution IMO. Your other option is to buy euro O2s (which are longer), but you need to get those from europe and they're expensive.
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      10-18-2012, 12:10 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beta View Post
Honestly, it was noticeable, but not a huge change. Unfortunately I didn't do before/after dynos like I should have; work was crazy busy at the time. The stock DME can do a lot of adapting on its own. Should be about as big a change as gferil's dyno that he posted today.
Who's tune are you running? I felt a big difference running my ESS 93oct tune. I was running headers/no tune for months and it was great. Extra power - fun.
But there was a definite change in the way the car pulls from 4500rpm++ when I got the tune (on top of headers). Cracks open so to speak.
AJ @ ESS is a master IMO
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      10-18-2012, 06:54 AM   #26
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OP,

Microscopic leaks can cause O2 sensor voltage to go low. These are usaully found at the bung welds. If your voltage is too high I suspect a failed sensor or wiring issue.
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      10-18-2012, 06:59 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyfrc View Post
OP,

Microscopic leaks can cause O2 sensor voltage to go low. These are usaully found at the bung welds. If your voltage is too high I suspect a failed sensor or wiring issue.
Thanks for your input confirming my hunch.
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      03-30-2013, 06:55 PM   #28
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Update: after a few times clearing the codes, my codes disappeared and I was able to pass state inspection today. Without getting too much ahead of myself, I think my car learned how to "fix" itself. Bow down to German engineering!!!
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      03-30-2013, 07:35 PM   #29
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      04-01-2013, 11:12 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHMOUPE View Post
Update: after a few times clearing the codes, my codes disappeared and I was able to pass state inspection today. Without getting too much ahead of myself, I think my car learned how to "fix" itself. Bow down to German engineering!!!
SCHMOUPE - how long or how many miles did you drive to make sure the ECU was ready for inspection. I know you cannot just clear the code and drive to the inspection place the same day.

Last night I replaced both of my O2 Sensors after cutting the original ones to extend them to the back on the section 1 .

However, I didn't clear the code, I'm hoping the car will noticed the change and turn off the SES light.
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      04-02-2013, 12:50 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffchaPz View Post
SCHMOUPE - how long or how many miles did you drive to make sure the ECU was ready for inspection. I know you cannot just clear the code and drive to the inspection place the same day.

Last night I replaced both of my O2 Sensors after cutting the original ones to extend them to the back on the section 1 .

However, I didn't clear the code, I'm hoping the car will noticed the change and turn off the SES light.
Every time you reset the codes, you need to go through an OBD II drive cycle which is typically 20-30 miles driving at different speeds and RPMs in different gears. Once you do this the monitors go from not ready state to ready.

The trouble I was having initially was that as soon as my monitors would become ready, the SES or the pending fault would come back. I think overall it took my 4-5 cycles to get rid of it. Mind you, I did the O2 relocation in October/November and my car has been in the garage most of the winter and it was driven once every few weeks.
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      04-02-2013, 01:30 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHMOUPE View Post
Update: after a few times clearing the codes, my codes disappeared and I was able to pass state inspection today. Without getting too much ahead of myself, I think my car learned how to "fix" itself. Bow down to German engineering!!!
Not to be the bearer of bad news, but make sure you put it on a dyno that can read AFR. You need to make sure things are actually ok, and not that the car adapted to the bad conditions, giving you lower than expected performance.
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      04-02-2013, 02:05 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beta View Post
Not to be the bearer of bad news, but make sure you put it on a dyno that can read AFR. You need to make sure things area actually ok, and not that the car adapted to the bad conditions, giving you lower than expected performance.
Just wondering, how would a bad rear O2 sensor decrease performance?
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      04-02-2013, 02:35 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCHMOUPE View Post
Just wondering, how would a bad rear O2 sensor decrease performance?
Read this excellent PDF I found on the m5 board. At the very end of the document it goes into the rear O2s.
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File Type: pdf BMW Fuel Trim.pdf (325.7 KB, 25 views)
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      04-02-2013, 08:35 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beta View Post
Read this excellent PDF I found on the m5 board. At the very end of the document it goes into the rear O2s.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing
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