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      04-16-2012, 10:35 PM   #1
jdl1pt
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Help Needed, front wheel frozen to the hub!

Hey all,

I just bought new wheels and was getting ready to put them on when I found that my drivers front wheel seems to be frozen to the hub. And yes I had all the lugs off... I've had it off a few times before, but this time it just didn't budge. I only had a scissor jack so didn't want to lay into it hard, but at the end I was giving it everything I've got. Is it possible for the hub to rust to the wheel and fuze?

I tried, rubber mallet, WD40 around the inner and outer hub, and lots of elbow grease and nothing.

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Last edited by jdl1pt; 04-17-2012 at 01:23 AM.
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      04-16-2012, 10:40 PM   #2
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Pb blaster ?!
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      04-16-2012, 10:47 PM   #3
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Had this happen too. Took a 2x4, padded it (towel), gave the 2x4 a tap with my 10 lb sledge. The 2x4 was a 16" section, and the 16" were between the sledge and the edge of the wheel/tire. It just needed a tap (not a whack).
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      04-16-2012, 10:48 PM   #4
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My suggestion is put one of the lugs back on partially so the wheel doesn't fly off when it eventually does come off and keep at it with that rubber mallet from the inside part of the wheel. And next time throw on just a bit of high-temp anti seize around the hub so you don't have this issue in the future

Edit: Padded 2x4 + rubber mallet sounds a bit better than my original suggestion like Finnegan says.
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      04-16-2012, 10:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dorifto88 View Post
Pb blaster ?!
??? please expand

Thanks!
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      04-16-2012, 10:49 PM   #6
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never mind found it http://www.pbblaster.com/

Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnegan View Post
Had this happen too. Took a 2x4, padded it (towel), gave the 2x4 a tap with my 10 lb sledge. The 2x4 was a 16" section, and the 16" were between the sledge and the edge of the wheel/tire. It just needed a tap (not a whack).
Ron I'm not quite following you, was the 2x4 on the inside or outside of the wheel, or between the spokes ?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemonblitz View Post
My suggestion is put one of the lugs back on partially so the wheel doesn't fly off when it eventually does come off and keep at it with that rubber mallet from the inside part of the wheel. And next time throw on just a bit of high-temp anti seize around the hub so you don't have this issue in the future

Edit: Padded 2x4 + rubber mallet sounds a bit better than my original suggestion like Finnegan says.
Will use the anti seize next time, great idea.

Thanks both!
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Last edited by jdl1pt; 04-16-2012 at 10:57 PM.
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      04-16-2012, 11:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Will use the anti seize next time, great idea
Anti sieze wont work at those temperatures. Just anti squeak grease, like you put behind your brake pads. CV joint grease is also good at high temperatures.
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      04-16-2012, 11:44 PM   #8
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had this happen a few times....a stable floor jack and a good kick should do the trick
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      04-17-2012, 12:04 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seank View Post
Anti sieze wont work at those temperatures. Just anti squeak grease, like you put behind your brake pads. CV joint grease is also good at high temperatures.
Thanks for the info. BTW, you heading down Sat?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bayonet View Post
had this happen a few times....a stable floor jack and a good kick should do the trick
Well a "stable" floor jack was an issue, but thanks to Amazon 1day shipping, it won't be come Wed!!! Just picked this up. http://www.amazon.com/OTC-1532-Capac...4638803&sr=8-1
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      04-17-2012, 12:39 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdl1pt View Post
never mind found it http://www.pbblaster.com/



Ron I'm not quite following you, was the 2x4 on the inside or outside of the wheel, or between the spokes ?



Will use the anti seize next time, great idea.

Thanks both!
John, outside edge of the wheel right next to the tire. Gives the tap some leverage. Bayonet's approach essentially does the same thing, I just felt I had more control with the tap. The sharp shock plus leverage knocks it free. I have one of these which is handy for things like this (wheel won't drop) and it makes putting the wheel back on much easier when working by yourself.
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      04-17-2012, 01:21 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnegan View Post
John, outside edge of the wheel right next to the tire. Gives the tap some leverage. Bayonet's approach essentially does the same thing, I just felt I had more control with the tap. The sharp shock plus leverage knocks it free. I have one of these which is handy for things like this (wheel won't drop) and it makes putting the wheel back on much easier when working by yourself.
I'm with you now.

I saw the wheel pin long ago. Now that I have a second set of rims, and may be swapping more often, I may pick one up.

Pics of the new rims mounted will be up Thursday (fingers crossed)
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      04-18-2012, 11:41 PM   #12
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Had this happen on a couple of cars. I use what I call "Donkey Kicks". Get on your butt sitting in front of the wheel and give some swift kicks with both feet on the lower edge of the wheel/tire!
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      04-19-2012, 12:12 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elerner61 View Post
Had this happen on a couple of cars. I use what I call "Donkey Kicks". Get on your butt sitting in front of the wheel and give some swift kicks with both feet on the lower edge of the wheel/tire!


The rubber mallet to the back of the wheel finally did the trick!

Thanks everyone for your thoughts, this forum is awesome!
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