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      03-29-2012, 02:12 PM   #23
davesz4mc
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You said, they said it should be 6mm, wondering where that came from I got that you do not have the "actual spec".

After I adjusted my valves, as close as I could get to min spec, I lost 1mpg average over 1k miles highway that I daily drive (used to get 22.4 after I am getting 21.1). Thats how much longer the valve duration peak lift changed my fuel consumption. It changed the whole exhaust note and everything, definatly drove better after the adjustment...
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      03-29-2012, 02:27 PM   #24
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did they replace the vanos gasket?
if not, there is no way they checked the cam bolts.

maybe i missed that above?
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      03-29-2012, 03:39 PM   #25
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Here are the parts they used for the job:

1 x 11-12-7-832-034 profile-gasket (cylinder head gasket)
13 x 11-12-7-830-972 rubber seal
2 x 11-12-1-437-395 rubber seal
6 x 11-12-7-831-271 profile-gasket
2 x 07-11-9-963-129 gasket ring

the 6mm is some intake/exhaust number I pulled out of some spec sheet they printed for me

edit: I'm calling them right now, because it doesn't include any shims. FFS
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      03-29-2012, 03:45 PM   #26
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1 x 11-12-7-832-034 profile-gasket valve cover gskt
13 x 11-12-7-830-972 rubber seal valve cover bolt gskt
2 x 11-12-1-437-395 rubber seal valve cover bolt gskt
6 x 11-12-7-831-271 profile-gasket spark plug tube seals
2 x 07-11-9-963-129 gasket ring zinc crush washers

the vanos gasket is PN 11-36-7-831-938. there is absolutely no way that the cam bolts were checked if the vanos wasn't removed. that gasket is one-time use, so if they did check the bolts, they should have replaced it.
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      03-29-2012, 03:47 PM   #27
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1 x 11-12-7-832-034 profile-gasket = valve cover gasket
13 x 11-12-7-830-972 rubber seal = topcover seals
2 x 11-12-1-437-395 rubber seal = thin, end top cover seals
6 x 11-12-7-831-271 profile-gasket = spark plug seals
2 x 07-11-9-963-129 gasket ring = banjo valve cover gaskets


No Vanos gaskets = did not check bolts
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      03-29-2012, 03:49 PM   #28
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if you aren't hearing any loud tapping noises from your engine from ~ 1k - 4.5k rpm... your cam bolts are fine.



the included vid is what bad cam bolts sound like.
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      03-29-2012, 03:50 PM   #29
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no funny sounds. I just brought it in because I hit 50k miles
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      03-29-2012, 03:52 PM   #30
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I just left them a message telling the service advisor that because I don't see any part numbers for shims used for the job, or a before/after spec sheet, I'm concerned that the job wasn't even done. I'm hoping that they just forgot to write them in. I just might go back and have them take everything off and measure the tolerances

oh, and if someone could link me to a service bulletin about failing vanos bolts that I could print, I'd appreciate it
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      03-29-2012, 04:03 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle View Post
oh, and if someone could link me to a service bulletin about failing vanos bolts that I could print, I'd appreciate it
there isn't one. BMW knows there is an issue, but as of yet, the only thing they've done is "upgraded" the bolts from inverted hex over to torx.

newest cam bolt PN 07-12-9-905-536
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      03-29-2012, 04:06 PM   #32
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also, and this is important, these are not "vanos bolts"... they are very specifically the bolts that connect the front of the camshaft to the inner portion of the cam gear.

if you asked the dealer to check vanos bolts, they probably just checked the bolts that affix the vanos to the front of the head.
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      03-29-2012, 04:08 PM   #33
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Other than the below this is a good how to.

The guy contradicts himself in his own video, if .23 fit in the gap you would NOT put a smaller shim in it will just make the gap bigger. He measured it correctly the first time at .36 as you do not want to measure the entire face of the shim as it will bind slightly raising your indicated thickness. He then puts in a bigger shim from .36 to .37 and the larger shim reduced the gap to lower than .20.

Last edited by davesz4mc; 03-29-2012 at 04:14 PM.
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      03-30-2012, 01:01 PM   #34
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I apologize if this is a lame question as I ain't mechanical at all. Is this issue with just Z4Ms or all Z4s. Thanks for being understanding.
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      03-30-2012, 01:02 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loogey Clapp View Post
I apologize if this is a lame question as I ain't mechanical at all. Is this issue with just Z4Ms or all Z4s. Thanks for being understanding.
s54's (///m) only.
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      10-23-2012, 03:58 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches View Post
Roffle, you do NOT want your dealer messing with the bolts. If not done properly the engine will need to be retimed, and the dealer will blame the symptoms on your FI setup/tune.
This is wrong, if done correctly the engine will need to be retimed either way. Anyone who replaces the cam sprocket bolts without timing the engine afterward is a moron who has no idea what they are doing.
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