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      09-04-2011, 05:21 PM   #1
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Rogue Engineering Fixed Camber Plates Installed

Didn't have the money for adjustable camber plates, and if I were going to go that route, I'd want to mate it with coilovers which and I definitely didn't have the money for that so I figured I'd be the guinea pig for RE's fixed plates. Dinan offers something similar but at double or triple the price. RE is local to me and their products have excellent reputation so I figured it's worth a shot.

Happy to say install went flawlessly. Removed the crash pins, installed the plate, went for a 4 wheel alignment and was able to dial in -2.4 degrees on both sides (-1.1 on the rears). Pics of front wheel, Volk RE-30 18x8.5 wrapped in Star Spec 235/40-18.

Will take a side pic later but wanted to show the angle first (the track ready m3 on the right is my neighbor's car):

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Last edited by DSC_OFF; 09-06-2011 at 06:13 PM.
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      09-06-2011, 04:42 PM   #2
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looks great!

that 135i doesn't stand a chance in the turns. go get him!
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      09-06-2011, 07:00 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by v3.0si View Post
looks great!

that 135i doesn't stand a chance in the turns. go get him!
Considering that's an M3 that appears to be on Hoosiers or NTO1's, I'll take the bet that the M3 will likely have him beat.
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      09-06-2011, 08:11 PM   #4
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I regret not getting a set of 18" volk re-30s that were for sale recently.
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      09-06-2011, 08:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arggg45 View Post
Considering that's an M3 that appears to be on Hoosiers or NTO1's, I'll take the bet that the M3 will likely have him beat.
the pic above does have an ///m3... you're right... however, the 135i i speak of is from here...

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=576471

... and it's going down.
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      09-06-2011, 09:04 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by arggg45 View Post
Considering that's an M3 that appears to be on Hoosiers or NTO1's, I'll take the bet that the M3 will likely have him beat.
M3 correct, tires neither - he's running Pilot Sport Cups
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      09-06-2011, 09:25 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Dubbedown View Post
M3 correct, tires neither - he's running Pilot Sport Cups
My Scientific Wild Ass Guess wasn't too far off from reality...

Hard to tell performance tires from pictures unless you get a clear view of the tread or sidewall.
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      09-07-2011, 12:43 PM   #8
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Did the plates lower the ride height at all? If so, how much?
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      09-07-2011, 01:03 PM   #9
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Did the plates lower the ride height at all? If so, how much?
No it does the opposite if anything, stack plates add 1/8" if I had to guess. If you have the m coupe and you're looking to dial some negative camber, you should look at the Turner shim kit (even much cheaper than RE, $15 or something like that).
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      10-24-2011, 04:20 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubbedown View Post
No it does the opposite if anything, stack plates add 1/8" if I had to guess. If you have the m coupe and you're looking to dial some negative camber, you should look at the Turner shim kit (even much cheaper than RE, $15 or something like that).
Just out of interest, why did you opt for the R.E. Camber Plates instead of the TMS Front Camber Bolt kit?

Any advantages for basically the same thing as far as I can tell?

I am getting -2.5 on the Frontend with the TMS kit.
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      10-24-2011, 06:33 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ANILE8 View Post
Just out of interest, why did you opt for the R.E. Camber Plates instead of the TMS Front Camber Bolt kit?

Any advantages for basically the same thing as far as I can tell?

I am getting -2.5 on the Frontend with the TMS kit.
The bolt (shim) approach alters the orientation of the wheel relative to the strut, and costs you some tire-to-strut-tube clearance. Camber plates keep the wheel/strut relationship constant, and let you tilt the whole assembly. If you run wider wheels/tires, and/or have decreased the wheel offset, you might have a problem with shims.

Because of the difference in the distance between the shims and the pivot bolt vs. the outer edge of the wheel/tire and the pivot, the loss of clearance will be some multiple of the thickness of the shims--see http://www.eabjr.com/Camber-Shims.php to understand the geometry.

I'm shimmed to -2.75 degrees, and with the stock wheels and tires it looks kind of close. I'm going up to an 8.5" wheel, et 35, with 245/40/18 tire; I have 5mm spacers and hub extenders in hand to solve the problem if they don't clear the strut.
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      11-01-2011, 02:45 AM   #12
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Curious, what is the max camber Z4M can achieve stock (pins pulled), front and rear, with H&R sport springs?
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      11-03-2011, 11:27 AM   #13
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^ Or an equivalent drop on coilovers if that makes any difference.
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      11-03-2011, 12:56 PM   #14
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I don't know how much you can achieve, but with KW V3s at max height I got -2.1 in the front. If you dropped it more you'd get more.
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      11-03-2011, 01:26 PM   #15
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Not bad at all. Any idea on the rear? No pins to pull of course, so just wondering what max adjustment is with a drop. Seems like few people add adjustable camber arms in the rear and I've seen a lot of specs with around -2 in the rear.
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      11-03-2011, 01:42 PM   #16
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Thanks for posting. Is -2.4 max? Personally, I'd cough up the extra $150 for Ground Control street plates. At -2.7 my front tires were still rolling over like a bitch
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      11-03-2011, 03:33 PM   #17
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wyath: yes, the rear ended up at -2 exactly. I believe the rear does have some adjustment.
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      11-04-2011, 12:17 AM   #18
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Is there a max figure you can't get above (closer to 0*) with a drop like that, F or R?
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