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      01-24-2014, 11:26 AM   #1
gmd2003
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ESS 525 Z4M clutch and flywheel upgrade/maintenance

So I'm at 74,000 miles on my M and have well over 10,000 hard track miles on my car since installing my first ESS Vt-1 kit. As any car guy would I noticed a distinct change in sound quality of my motor since upgrading to the 525 kit a few months ago, and the car just did not pull like it should with 525 hp. (My evidence of this was my 60-130 time of 10.4 sec, only 0.3 sec faster than my car in VT-1 trim). I knew I was making the appropriate boost and wasn't having belt slip with the proper belt and pulleys installed, and my temp stays is excellent with my new 34 row Setrab cool upgrade. At any rate I thought a few things needed addressing at this point motor wise.

1.) Vibrational damper: At over 70,000 miles the rubber in this was quite brittle from track day heat and I know of motors that have blown on track from its failure so this was a no brainer.

2.) VANOS and exhaust hub replacement. This was softer call but a failed vanos /loose bolts/broken vanos exhaust hub can also grenade a motor on track. Also i had a hypothesis that it may be the cause to my car not running as strong as it should.

3.) Clutch /flywheel replacement: This was easy at my torque levels I wasn't having slippage with track use but the clutch felt like it was down to a very thin layer of active material. Clutch travel was also extremely light and very deep to the engagement point. I decided to go with the Sachs HD/ JB racing aluminum flywheel combo that Turner motorsports sells. It is OEM quality and durability , (which is key since it will be seeing 150 gps and 8100rpm every lap at my favorite track), and the flywheel was specifically engineered and tested with this sprung hub clutch. (a sprung hub clutch greatly reduces flywheel noise and rattle). The upgraded pressure plate is rated to hold 50 wtq more than the stock clutch and combined with the OEM organic lining would give OEM clutch control, i.e. not be an on /off switch. Here are the pics from the install including shots of the OEM clutch and flywheel. I think it shows just how stout or stock clutch is after 72k and 10k track miles , and that proper heel toe downshifting is really kind to your clutch .

Review after the install:
1.) VANOS/flywheel: The car pulls much harder now and is more eager to rev at the top of the rev range. Certainly the 12 pound flywheel helps this but I believe the VANOS has improved midrange and top end output considerably as well. The car idles much smoother now(0 idle hunt).The car now will spin 285 r comps from a roll in 2nd gear from 5k upwards, and on a quick WOT 2-3 shift will spin through the majority of 3rd gear as well. It was not this strong before. Then there is the sound of the flywheel at 8100rpm.....
Sweet Jesus it sounds like a proper race car now. I'll post some in car vids from the track next week when i head back to Roebling. Surprisingly their is very little rattle , even next to building from the flywheel( my GTR flywheel was much louder). Also the car has plenty of torque output so stalling even in stop and go driving is not an issue.
2.) SACHS HD clutch. MY favorite mod I've done period. Transforms the car, it feels like a GT3 clutch now and that is a compliment. Yes the clutch effort is more substantial , but I can feel the engagement point now and it is much , much higher up . Way easier now to rev match than the worn stock clutch, even with the 12 pound flywheel.

I will be putting it back on the dyno next week before the track and will rerun the 60-130 as well.
George
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      01-24-2014, 12:31 PM   #2
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I was considering the same flywheel but fear it would be too light to drive on the street. Do you feel that the rev now drop way faster then stock? I feel like the stock speed is near perfect for me.
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      01-24-2014, 01:02 PM   #3
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I was considering the same flywheel but fear it would be too light to drive on the street. Do you feel that the rev now drop way faster then stock? I feel like the stock speed is near perfect for me.
I was honestly worried about that too but the car is actually more drivable now, not less on the street bc of the improved clutch action. I can shift much, much faster now. The guys at Turner said I would love it , and now i believe them.
I can't speak highly enough of this kit so far. To answer you're question yes the revs rise and fall faster than stock bc the flywheel is 50% the mass of stock, Bc of my car being supercharged this puts mine back to better than NA throttle response which is fantastic. Drivability is improved , even in stop and go traffic bc of the shorter more precise clutch travel .
George
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      01-24-2014, 01:28 PM   #4
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Isn't that "R U faster than a Redneck" show out there (South Carolina) somewhere? Can't you go whip some tail for us collectively?

https://www.facebook.com/RUFasterThanARedneck
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      01-24-2014, 01:45 PM   #5
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How hard was it to pull the vibration damper?
Or does it just fall right off after you take the bolts out.
I'd like to replace mine, and I think my front main seal is oozing.

Also, where did you get the Vanos?
That's on my short list, too.
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      01-24-2014, 01:49 PM   #6
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I was honestly worried about that too but the car is actually more drivable now, not less on the street bc of the improved clutch action. I can shift much, much faster now. The guys at Turner said I would love it , and now i believe them.
I can't speak highly enough of this kit so far. To answer you're question yes the revs rise and fall faster than stock bc the flywheel is 50% the mass of stock, Bc of my car being supercharged this puts mine back to better than NA throttle response which is fantastic. Drivability is improved , even in stop and go traffic bc of the shorter more precise clutch travel .
George
Thanks for the quick reply!
Would it make a big difference for me since mine is still NA? I want to stay NA…
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      01-24-2014, 01:55 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by bjbstewart
Isn't that "R U faster than a Redneck" show out there (South Carolina) somewhere? Can't you go whip some tail for us collectively?

http://<a href="https://www.facebook...anARedneck</a>
I will not participate in that Jackassery lol . It is at Carolina Mororsports Park in Kershaw.
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      01-24-2014, 01:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon
How hard was it to pull the vibration damper?
Or does it just fall right off after you take the bolts out.
I'd like to replace mine, and I think my front main seal is oozing.

Also, where did you get the Vanos?
That's on my short list, too.
It wasn't bad getting it off at all , once all the belts are out of the way and crank pulley is off . I went with Dr. VANOS . They have been rebuilding VANOS for years , and also engineered the replacement exhaust hub with thicker tabs ( the stock tabs tend to break off ) . Very quick service . They also improve some of the VANOS internals to make it more reliable than stock .
George
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      01-24-2014, 02:01 PM   #9
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I was honestly worried about that too but the car is actually more drivable now, not less on the street bc of the improved clutch action. I can shift much, much faster now. The guys at Turner said I would love it , and now i believe them.
I can't speak highly enough of this kit so far. To answer you're question yes the revs rise and fall faster than stock bc the flywheel is 50% the mass of stock, Bc of my car being supercharged this puts mine back to better than NA throttle response which is fantastic. Drivability is improved , even in stop and go traffic bc of the shorter more precise clutch travel .
George
Thanks for the quick reply!
Would it make a big difference for me since mine is still NA? I want to stay NA
It will make a huge difference , but only you can decide whether you would like it that way . Go drive an AP-1 S2000 , if you like the clutch /flywheel in it you will like this one on the street . On the track it's a no brainier . It's also related to your skill level driving a manual , no offense intended , not for beginners lol .
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      01-24-2014, 02:20 PM   #10
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I went with Dr. VANOS.
Thanks. That's my plan as well.
Thought about Beisan, but it looks like too much of a faff, plus I need a new oil pump disk, after already going through the exhaust hub replacement, and I want a new solenoid block and coil pack.

Looks like it won't be too much trouble to replace the front oil seal.
Ed on Wheeler Dealers makes it look so easy.
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      01-24-2014, 02:33 PM   #11
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I have the same flywheel clutch installed from turner and my car is NA. I've been running this setup for about a year and a half and love it. As was said before for track it's a no brainer, as for the street...I haven't stalled yet...this is in Boston traffic! With the heavier clutch everything feels more deliberate.
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      01-24-2014, 02:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmd2003 View Post
I went with Dr. VANOS.
Thanks. That's my plan as well.
Thought about Beisan, but it looks like too much of a faff, plus I need a new oil pump disk, after already going through the exhaust hub replacement, and I want a new solenoid block and coil pack.

Looks like it won't be too much trouble to replace the front oil seal.
Ed on Wheeler Dealers makes it look so easy.
Yep I replaced mine while I was there too .
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      01-27-2014, 12:52 AM   #13
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Vibration damper bolt torque?

Does this mean tighten all 4 to 60Nm, then all 4 another 50°, then all 4 another 50°?

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      01-27-2014, 01:18 AM   #14
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great. more maintenance for me to look forward to...

can't wait for your dynos!
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      01-27-2014, 07:19 AM   #15
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Does this mean tighten all 4 to 60Nm, then all 4 another 50, then all 4 another 50?

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Sort of , it's talking about a torque angle gauge reading . The bolts used are stretch bolts . So you start with 60 Newton meters to get things started using a standard gauge . Then you apply 50 degrees twice to actually stretch the bolt to spec using the degree meter . So obviously you need new bolts since that process weakens them .
George
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      01-27-2014, 07:22 AM   #16
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great. more maintenance for me to look forward to...

can't wait for your dynos!
Word of advice , if you replace you're clutch to one with more clamping force or a stock one for that matter , replace you're clutch master cylinder too . Mine went out yesterday while I was testing before this coming weekends track day lol . I was pumping the clutch like a mofo to get her to the shop lol !
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      01-27-2014, 03:32 PM   #17
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Sort of , it's talking about a torque angle gauge reading . The bolts used are stretch bolts . So you start with 60 Newton meters to get things started using a standard gauge . Then you apply 50 degrees twice to actually stretch the bolt to spec using the degree meter . So obviously you need new bolts since that process weakens them .
George
Thanks. I was aware of the stretched bolts, but wasn't sure if it was 100° total.

In an effort to answer my own question, I thought the bottom reinforcement plate was 59Nm +90°, so I looked that up for comparison.
Hmmm. According to this I'm 30° short, and I don't think I tightened the rear first.
I get the feeling the gauge only goes 90°, so that's why it's spec'ed in 2 parts.

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      02-05-2014, 11:07 AM   #18
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Had a great track day at Roebling as you can see in the Track thread but it almost didn't happen because of my clutch upgrade . The pictures say a thousand words . The rivets all failed on the backing plate in less than 300 miles with no launches or track use , and the hotspots on the flywheel are nasty . I'm not sure if vibration from the flywheel caused the failure , or the hotspots occurred after the clutch was flapping around . But either way I would not recommend any of you trying a lightweight flywheel on a blown Z4M . Things literally went wrong on the first redline shift . This kit was an OEM Sachs HD clutch and a lightweight flywheel (12 pounds)from JB racing . All companies are playing the blame game on my driving skills currently so I sent them the photos of my 72k clutch with 10k track miles and that stopped that quickly lol . Hopefully I'll get some money back but I'm not hopeful . I put a new stock clutch back in by the way and it felt and performed great .
George
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      02-05-2014, 12:16 PM   #19
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Wow that kinda killed my plan for getting that clutch flywheel kit. Any other options? I was also considering the clutch flywheel combo from rogue engineering, anyone tried those?
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      02-05-2014, 01:22 PM   #20
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Wow that kinda killed my plan for getting that clutch flywheel kit. Any other options? I was also considering the clutch flywheel combo from rogue engineering, anyone tried those?
Don't do it , the stock is more than good enough even for track use, I've had 0 problems with mine, plus there was zero evidence of slippage on my stock one when I "upgraded it" . The stress on a supercharged motor crank is already extreme taking away one of the major vibration dampers (the dual mass flywheel) is a bad idea which i proved. FYI the vibration was so bad it actually worked my belts off my crank pulley in 300 street miles . My two cents
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      02-05-2014, 01:23 PM   #21
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early on ESS strictly told me to not put lightweight flywheel on the car...... i was never given a reason for this... a new stock clutch replacement seems more than enough for the way a centri loads it....
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      02-05-2014, 01:52 PM   #22
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I thought that RE makes a steel flywheel that has similar weight as stock?
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