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      02-26-2011, 09:41 PM   #45
Shipkiller
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I only have about a 1/2 inch of overhang on the sides. I did not want to stretch the fender-liners to get a flush fit. I personally think it looks better than flush.

I did do a single high speed lap (pushed it faster than I normally go) and I went up the S's at 135MPH..

On a different note, what was really surprising is on one session, I had a E90 M3 on my tail but he never got close enough to warrant me giving a point by, and he could NOT out run me on the straights..... and I could out run him in the turns...
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      03-04-2011, 07:06 PM   #46
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how long should one allow for this install?
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      03-04-2011, 07:22 PM   #47
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took me about 3 hours total. I took my time though
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      03-04-2011, 07:27 PM   #48
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did you include stage IV of the install as it looks like there are additional rods i don't have in my kit - can't recall if these were optional extras...
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      03-04-2011, 07:29 PM   #49
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no, but you could try to use the front rods in the back. If you could get a good splitter angle by using the rods in the back, you'll have a much cleaner install. I'm not sure if they're long enough though. the DIY states 10mm rods, which I think he meant 10cm rods
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      03-04-2011, 07:40 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle View Post
.... 10mm rods, which I think he meant 10cm rods

Thanks.

Parts 9 and 13 seem to be the same 10cm, so i guess you could swap over. However, am not sure what the best option is, having the support rods at the rear gives more angle while being up front gives more rigidity.. Not sure if there's a way of getting the desired angle naturally by tightening the rear bolts more...
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      03-18-2011, 10:53 PM   #51
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Has anyone had any luck finding the spacers for the middle 3 mounting points in Canada ? Namely no.6 and 7 on the parts list ? I have tried Home depot, Home Hardware, Canadian Tire and Brofasco with no luck. If you haven't found them either what did you use instead for the install ?
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      03-18-2011, 11:37 PM   #52
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I used plastic spacers from HomeDepo and painted them. I now have bought a aluminum rod that I will cut to exact length and then paint. HomeDepo also.

Just one caveat on painting. I needed to remove my lower plastic engine bay cover so the three front spacers/bolts needed to come out. The 'normal' paint I used is abrading off... I think that the only paint that will work is an epoxy paint or have them powder coated.
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      03-19-2011, 01:26 PM   #53
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I only looked quickly and at CDN Tire there was fuel line that looked like it would work.
I ordered 2 more adjuster rods from APR.
Have not done the install yet.
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      03-19-2011, 01:36 PM   #54
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Darn, i could have sold you mine, I don't think ill be putting them on.

I guess i won't have any luck finding the right spacers, so im probably looking at finding something similar and will end up having to cut it to size.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrose View Post
I only looked quickly and at CDN Tire there was fuel line that looked like it would work.
I ordered 2 more adjuster rods from APR.
Have not done the install yet.
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      03-19-2011, 02:05 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
I used plastic spacers from HomeDepo and painted them. I now have bought a aluminum rod that I will cut to exact length and then paint. HomeDepo also.

Just one caveat on painting. I needed to remove my lower plastic engine bay cover so the three front spacers/bolts needed to come out. The 'normal' paint I used is abrading off... I think that the only paint that will work is an epoxy paint or have them powder coated.
what about using some heat shrink tube over the alum rod instead of paint.


I still haven't settled on the support spacers for this area yet, but I'm working on something
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      03-19-2011, 02:46 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
what about using some heat shrink tube over the alum rod instead of paint.

Never thought of that. That might work.
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      03-19-2011, 03:27 PM   #57
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I put electrical tape over my 3 support rods, this way they won't chip from rocks
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      03-19-2011, 06:09 PM   #58
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Also...
For the rear support, there is no need for the expensive turnbuckle.
I'm going to use SS threaded rod & couplers.
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      03-20-2011, 09:58 PM   #59
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Working on a plastic spacer to span the gap

Hey guys,
I am almost done with a plastic spacer that spans the entire distance between the fangs.

Here is what I have so far.

I have a buddy that works in the plastics industry and he can get this matl in black too.
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      03-20-2011, 10:12 PM   #60
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I have been looking for something to cover that up. I was thinking of a large purpose cut piece of rubber, but that looks better.
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      03-21-2011, 02:44 AM   #61
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hmm...I was thinking that the splitter might actually work better with that hole/gap there. I figure the air that passes through that hole would provide more downforce rather than not? Since the air would travel along the length of the rest of the CF board, all the way to the black plastic under-tray/cover

Also, I'm finally going to take the splitter for test runs on the track in another week. We'll see if it actually has any performance benefits =P
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      03-21-2011, 02:47 PM   #62
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Im selling my barely used one for $250 + shipping if anyone's interested. Comes with the install hardware
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      03-21-2011, 03:03 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfanatic325 View Post
hmm...I was thinking that the splitter might actually work better with that hole/gap there. I figure the air that passes through that hole would provide more downforce rather than not? Since the air would travel along the length of the rest of the CF board, all the way to the black plastic under-tray/cover

Also, I'm finally going to take the splitter for test runs on the track in another week. We'll see if it actually has any performance benefits =P
In talking with a very knowledgable guy who owns his own race shop, he actually said the opposite. Filling the gap would provide MORE downforce, as you would be reducing the amount of air that could possibly leak through the underside.

crfine, very interested if you are able to make more of these pieces. Keep us posted. Always providing us with top notch work! Thanks!
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      03-21-2011, 04:29 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shereef_Osman View Post
In talking with a very knowledgable guy who owns his own race shop, he actually said the opposite. Filling the gap would provide MORE downforce, as you would be reducing the amount of air that could possibly leak through the underside.

crfine, very interested if you are able to make more of these pieces. Keep us posted. Always providing us with top notch work! Thanks!
I agree.
Unless you add some rear down force, I don't think closing the gap is necessarily a good thing.
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      03-21-2011, 09:05 PM   #65
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Spacer complete

Short version:
1. Cut the plastic using a compound miter saw ( working with tow angles at once in each cut)
2. Formed into bumper curve then mounted between fangs overnight to set curve
3. Used drill press to for 5 mounting holes
4. Wrapped plastic in gloss black 3M
5. Installed spacer

Overall I am happy with how this turned out. The inside angles are perfect and the gloss black sort of ties into the CF finish. The spacer also gives the center of the bumper substantial support. A word of caution though, this will likely add more front end down force.
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      03-22-2011, 09:46 AM   #66
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