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      02-10-2011, 11:55 PM   #1
crfine88
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DIY APR Splitter install

DIY INTRO:
This is a five part DIY for Z4M APR splitter installation. PART IV IS OPTIONAL. Part IV adds strength, rigidity and adjustability that will be useful for track applications. Part IV may be overkill for street use. In part IV the lower engine cover is permanently altered. This is the only step that would prevent you from taking you car back to stock without buying any new parts. The lower engine cover price is $157.00

Part I:
-Hardware list & photos
-Tool list & photo
-Bumper removal instructions from 2007 BMW TIS
-Photo headlight washer line that need to be disabled

Part II:
-Splitter preparations
-Attaching the splitter to the bumper cover.

Part III:
-Splitter support rod installation

Part IV:
-Option 2 install (This complicates things but adds rigidity and adjustability that is useful for track applications. May be overkill for street use)

Part V:
-Complete installation



PART I



Hardware:
1. (8) stainless 1/4 20 x 1 machine screws
2. (3) stainless 1/4 20 x 2.25 machine screws
3. (22) stainless 1/4x1 fender washers
4. (11) stainless 1/4 20 lock nuts
5. (3) 1/4 20 nuts (temporarily hold the bumper in place while marking hardware locations)
6. (3) 1/4x3/8x1 spacers
7. (6) 1/4x1/2 washers or 1/4x1/2x1/8 spacers
8. (2) 3/16x2 molly bolt style anchors
9. (2) stainless 10mm splitter support rods
10. (2) stainless 3/16x1 fender washers
11. (8) OEM plastic expanding rivets (BMW # 51118174185)
12. [option 2 install only, see part IV] (3) additional stainless 1/4 x 1 fender washers
13. [option 2 install only, see part IV] (2) additional stainless 10mm splitter support rods
14. [option 2 install only, see part IV] (2) additional stainless 3/16x1 fender washers
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Tools:
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Prep:

1. Goof Off (decal removal)
2. 50/50 spray
3. Meguiar’s NXT 2.0 tech wax
4. Meguiar’s Ultimate Detailer
5. 3” blue painters tape

Human support:
1. Safety glasses
2. Nitrile gloves
3. Headlight
4. Caffeine

Measurement:
1. 72” ruler
2. 48” adjustable drywall square
3. 12” square
4. 6” rafter square
5. Digital caliper
6. Magnetic protractor
7. Sharpies
8. 1.5” blue painters tape

Wrenching:
1. 1/2 ratchet wrench (wheel removal)
2. 1/2 17mm deep
3. 1/2 2” extension
4. 1/2 Torque wrench (wheel installation)
5. 3/8 ratchet wrench
6. 3/8 T30 male (for engine bay bumper hardware)
7. 3/8 11mm standard
8. 3/8 2” extension
9. 1/4 ratchet wrench
10. 1/4 7mm standard
11. 1/4 8mm standard
12. 1/4 10mm standard
13. 1/4 11mm standard
14. 1/4 3” extension
15. 1/4 5” flexible extension
16. 8mm ratcheting combo wrench
17. 10mm ratcheting combo wrench
18. 11mm ratcheting combo wrench

Power Drivers:
1. 1/2 18V drill driver
2. 3/8 12V drill driver
3. 3/8 12V compact driver
4. 3/8 12V right angle drill driver
5. Drill bit set

Cutting:
1. Jig saw w/ fine blade (only for option 2 install. See part IV)
2. Mini hack saw
3. Exacto knife

Miscellaneous:
1. Needle nose pliers
2. Screwdriver set
3. Zip ties
4. Blue thread locker








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      02-10-2011, 11:55 PM   #2
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PART II

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      02-10-2011, 11:56 PM   #3
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PART III

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      02-10-2011, 11:57 PM   #4
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PART IV

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      02-10-2011, 11:57 PM   #5
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PART V

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      02-11-2011, 12:30 AM   #6
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Wow, that's a great DIY man.

Thank You for the help to the community!
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      02-11-2011, 12:36 AM   #7
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heh, thats exactly as far as I got with my install today (part 2)
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      02-11-2011, 12:41 AM   #8
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You da bomb. I <3's chris.

edit. Add the hardware list to the top too
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      02-11-2011, 11:13 AM   #9
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Thanks for this article. Great write up and your attention to detail is outstanding.
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      02-11-2011, 02:38 PM   #10
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SuperSprint Race Cans, RE X Pipe, Fabspeed Headers, OE STB, AS Shifter, Dave Z Modified CDV, Ground Control Coil Overs, Stoptech lines, Hawk DTC Pads, RE Clutch Stop, RE Transmission Mounts, Vibra-Technics Engine Mounts, ZHP Shift Knob, LeatherZ M Shift Boot, Tekarbon Rear Spoiler, CF Grills, Advan RS DGM
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      02-11-2011, 02:54 PM   #11
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Great write-up! Thanks for all of the details! Excellent work and documentation!
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      02-11-2011, 03:38 PM   #12
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If one were to ever remove the splitter in order to resell vehicle, how obvious will the holes be in the bumper? I can see using the bolts to fill the holes but can they be seen by the naked eye while looking at the car on a level plane? Mostly worried about the outer bolts on the outside front edge and the front leading edge of the fangs. This is my biggest worry if I ever remove the splitter. Don't want to kill resale value if I install.
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      02-11-2011, 04:10 PM   #13
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Here's the hardware list that I compiled (excluding the two extra moly bolts that Chris personally used):

You can pretty much get whatever nuts, bolts, and washers you'd like, but I went with what Chris used, which I'm going to list off the top of my head as follows:

- Ten 1/4-inch diameter by 1-inch length machine screws/bolts (with 20 pitch threading) for mounting of sides of bumper/splitter
- Ten 1/4-inch diameter (with 20 pitch threading) lock nuts for locking the bolts in place
- Twenty 1/4-inch diameter inner hole by 1-inch outter diameter washers; one washer on the bumper side and one on the splitter side

- Three 1/4-inch diameter by 2-inch length machine screws/bolts (with 20 pitch threading) for the center mounts in between the fangs
- Three 1/4-inch diameter by 1-inch length metal spacer to help keep a healthy distance between bumper bottom and splitter top
- Three 1/4-inch diameter (with 20 pitch threading) lock nuts for locking bolts in place
- Twelve 1/4-inch diameter inner hole by 1-inch outter diameter washers; one washer on bumper side and one on the splitter side. And one on each side of the metal spacers as well.

This allowed me a total of 13 mounting locations excluding the two support rods which I don't particularly want to use. Will see how the splitter behaves prior to tracking it, and see if they're absolutely mandatory.
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      02-11-2011, 04:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitch View Post
If one were to ever remove the splitter in order to resell vehicle, how obvious will the holes be in the bumper? I can see using the bolts to fill the holes but can they be seen by the naked eye while looking at the car on a level plane? Mostly worried about the outer bolts on the outside front edge and the front leading edge of the fangs. This is my biggest worry if I ever remove the splitter. Don't want to kill resale value if I install.
The drilled holes will only be visible if you look up at the car from underneath.
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      02-11-2011, 08:32 PM   #15
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Chris,

A question:

How did you ensure that the middle of the splitter fit flat against the plastic undertray and not start to ride down the hump?

Edit: disregard.

Last edited by Shipkiller; 02-11-2011 at 10:16 PM.
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      02-11-2011, 10:41 PM   #16
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Excellent DIY Chris! Really appreciate how much time and effort you put into these kind of things.

It just occurred to me that I may as well just lift the cover off my car, remove my bumper and install my lip over the cold months so she is ready to go by spring...

One thing though, I've never removed the front bumper off of our cars, is it hard, easy? Anything i should look out for or be careful about?
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      02-11-2011, 11:25 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnieAces View Post
Excellent DIY Chris! Really appreciate how much time and effort you put into these kind of things.

It just occurred to me that I may as well just lift the cover off my car, remove my bumper and install my lip over the cold months so she is ready to go by spring...

One thing though, I've never removed the front bumper off of our cars, is it hard, easy? Anything i should look out for or be careful about?
I don't know how experienced you are with hands-on work, but honestly the hardest part about the bumper removal is pounding in the little rivets in the wheel well, and actually pulling the sides off from the headlight area (as previously stated, the plastic mounting tabs are very fragile). Other than that, it's just the seven torx bolts up top, accessed judt under the hood.
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      02-11-2011, 11:53 PM   #18
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great start! thanks for all the hard work!
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      02-12-2011, 12:00 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfanatic325 View Post
I don't know how experienced you are with hands-on work, but honestly the hardest part about the bumper removal is pounding in the little rivets in the wheel well, and actually pulling the sides off from the headlight area (as previously stated, the plastic mounting tabs are very fragile). Other than that, it's just the seven torx bolts up top, accessed judt under the hood.
not THE most skilled person in the world but i'm pretty handy i'll take a look at it prolly this sunday, then proceed with removal over the week if i have time and thanks for the fragile tip,

size of torx wrench needed?
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      02-12-2011, 03:52 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnieAces View Post
not THE most skilled person in the world but i'm pretty handy i'll take a look at it prolly this sunday, then proceed with removal over the week if i have time and thanks for the fragile tip,

size of torx wrench needed?
I don't remember the size of the torx, since I had access to my shop's tools and was sure they had the socket/bit I needed

If it were up to me, I'd just buy all-new fender liner push-pin tabs because they're a pain to remove sometimes and it's quicker to just yank them out, possibly destroying them. The bumper removal DIY can be found here:
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79994

The part that I'm referring to is step 1 in the DIY. These push-pin tabs are annoying. And so are the bumper's side mounts.

Oh, and I forgot the few 8mm hex screws at the bottom which also serve to hold the bumper in place a bit.
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      02-12-2011, 04:02 AM   #21
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Now it's a Real DIY. Updated part one through five with complete hardware, tool, and instructions
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      02-12-2011, 10:26 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diokaef View Post
Wow, that's a great DIY man.
Thank You for the help to the community!
Thanks man

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roffle Waffle View Post
heh, thats exactly as far as I got with my install today (part 2)
Nice! DIY complete now. Sorry for the delay; This tool way longer than I had anticipated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Thisisdudewhoru View Post
You da bomb. I <3's chris.

edit. Add the hardware list to the top too
Thanks
Hardware added (along with a ton of other info/photos)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ARISIN View Post
Thanks for this article. Great write up and your attention to detail is outstanding.
Thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by Caddyshk View Post


Quote:
Originally Posted by bhoch View Post
Great write-up! Thanks for all of the details! Excellent work and documentation!
no problem, check it out now that it's complete

Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitch View Post
If one were to ever remove the splitter in order to resell vehicle, how obvious will the holes be in the bumper? I can see using the bolts to fill the holes but can they be seen by the naked eye while looking at the car on a level plane? Mostly worried about the outer bolts on the outside front edge and the front leading edge of the fangs. This is my biggest worry if I ever remove the splitter. Don't want to kill resale value if I install.
No issue going back to stock unless you elect to do Part IV of the install, then you would need to buy a new lower engine cover for $157 to bring the car back to stock.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
Chris,

A question:

How did you ensure that the middle of the splitter fit flat against the plastic undertray and not start to ride down the hump?

Edit: disregard.
Let me know if any other questions come up

Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnieAces View Post
Excellent DIY Chris! Really appreciate how much time and effort you put into these kind of things.

It just occurred to me that I may as well just lift the cover off my car, remove my bumper and install my lip over the cold months so she is ready to go by spring...

One thing though, I've never removed the front bumper off of our cars, is it hard, easy? Anything i should look out for or be careful about?
Thanks man,
I added a ton of info including the BMW TIS bumper removal instructions in part I

Quote:
Originally Posted by l4zy View Post
great start! thanks for all the hard work!
Thank you,
All done now

Quote:
Originally Posted by mfanatic325 View Post
I don't remember the size of the torx, since I had access to my shop's tools and was sure they had the socket/bit I needed

If it were up to me, I'd just buy all-new fender liner push-pin tabs because they're a pain to remove sometimes and it's quicker to just yank them out, possibly destroying them. The bumper removal DIY can be found here:
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79994

The part that I'm referring to is step 1 in the DIY. These push-pin tabs are annoying. And so are the bumper's side mounts.

Oh, and I forgot the few 8mm hex screws at the bottom which also serve to hold the bumper in place a bit.
Thanks for all your help, I have been swamped and I appreciate you helping out witht the early installs.

The DIY is complete now. Hardware, parts, & installation have all been updated.

For the fender liners I ended up using a re-usable plastic fastener from BMW. I also had a hard time with the original plastic rivets

Thanks again
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