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      09-08-2011, 11:29 AM   #1
robrwalker
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new rattle - drivers left side over ear

any common complaints about a rattle that sounds to be coming from the drivers left hand side, over the ear, either near the window seal or back at the area where the little non-operable window is above rear wheel?

i know things can sound like they are coming from one place and not be, but i think i have this narrowed down to the general area noted above.

things i think it could be:

1. window not sitting right when up - this is because i think i eliminate the noise when i crack the window, but it is hard to tell is i am just drowning it out with road/air noise. i have tested many times and inconclusive so far

2. something that came loose during an intravee 2 install about 6 months ago - perhaps when i tore apart the rear trunk area i didnt get something clipped in right? this seems a little more like a longshot, but who knows.


maybe others have had a similar problem?
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      09-08-2011, 11:40 AM   #2
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There is a definite issue with Z4 coupes making noise when the frameless windows are closed and you drive over bumps or accelerate ... i.e. when the body flexes a bit. The noise comes from the top of the window rubbing against the rubber seals around the door. As you say, if you open the window just 10mm, the creaking noise will go away.

I have two Z4s and both do it ... the first one did it from brand new. When I complained to BMW, I was told to clean the rubber seals, and apply some silicone lubricrant spray (put it on a paper towel and wipe it on) onto the rubber seals. Mostly, this just wipes off any residual grit on the seals. [After applying, make sure the window is at least half-open ... close the door ... and leave to completely dry ... otherwise it gets all over your window and it is messy to clean off the windows.] This works ... for a a few weeks ... then repeat.

Subsequently, I have been told ... by a different person at the same BMW dealership ... that silicone spray is not a good idea ... and indeed the BMW owner's booklet advises against it .... but then what do you do? I have gone back to using it.

Maybe just try clean the rubber seals with a damp tissue cloth ... and see if that fixes it. Otherwise ... give the silicone lubricant a go ... and see if it works for you.
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      09-08-2011, 11:43 AM   #3
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I noticed I get a rattle during the colder months. If I apply pressure with my left arm against the door handle, it goes away. Where it's specifically coming from, no clue...
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      09-08-2011, 12:06 PM   #4
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I have one rattle in the same spot you described. It is over my left shoulder. It is a plastic piece right under the triangle window that does not open. It is on and off, mostly when I am on the highway probably from vibrations.

I can stop the noise by holding down that plastic piece or tapping it makes it stop for a few minutes sometimes. Very annoying, although I doubt there is an easy fix.
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      09-08-2011, 12:11 PM   #5
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There was a fix for the bowden cable; Ron may have the information either here or Bimmerfest. There was a fix for newer vehicles, some type of insulation or rubber bumper to keep the cable from rattling against the metal door frame. This could be what you are hearing.
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      09-08-2011, 05:23 PM   #6
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sounds like I am experiencing what many of you are commenting on with the window rubber.

i am going to check out the bowden cable thing too.

gracias.
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      09-08-2011, 07:29 PM   #7
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This intermittant noise has been driving me insane for the two years I've owned the car. Just discovered it's the lock button rattling. (The stem at the back of the door, not the electronic central locking button on the center console.) Always thought it was the B-pillar trim or the window until I accidentally found the source. Havent figured out what to about it yet...
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      09-08-2011, 08:13 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFGJR View Post
This intermittant noise has been driving me insane for the two years I've owned the car. Just discovered it's the lock button rattling. (The stem at the back of the door, not the electronic central locking button on the center console.) Always thought it was the B-pillar trim or the window until I accidentally found the source. Havent figured out what to about it yet...
Bowden cable attaches to the stem. #4
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      09-08-2011, 09:53 PM   #9
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Quote:
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Bowden cable attaches to the stem. #4
thekurgan--Here's another view. Looks like the Bowden cable running from the interior handle (#16 here) attaches to and operates the door latch mechanism. (A second Bowden cable, #7, runs from the exterior door handle to the latch.) The lock button (#12) attaches to the "Operating Rod" (#11) which in turn goes to the latch separate from the Bowden cables and when depressed engages the lock within the latch.

The noise I'm getting goes away with very slight pressure on the button, and can be exactly replicated by flicking the button. It has to be either #12 ratting in its plastic well/housing/bushing in the door panel, or #11 vibrating where it attaches into the latch mechanism. I dont think the lock button and the Bowden cable(s) are directly connected--agree?

Gonna have to pull the door panel and see what's what.

Thanks
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      09-09-2011, 09:05 AM   #10
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Yes, agree, #7 is where the SIB mentioned a rubber pad of some kind. #11 seems plausible as a bad sound source. Mine made the same sound, but when I searched years ago, nobody else had it. I used some Krytox 205 grease and put a minimum amount on the raised lock "button", then cycled them a few times and it hasn't returned. I think the grease acts as a vibration absorber within that little cylinder where the button resides. May be worth a cheap shot to try before removing the panel. These parts are likely behind the plastic moisture guard, and the butyl tape is difficult to remove cleanly. Krytox I used as it doesn't dry out, it doesn't smell and it has an extreme temp rating.
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      09-09-2011, 09:48 AM   #11
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I have the same problem... I will try to fix it with all this great info here
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      09-09-2011, 10:56 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFGJR View Post
This intermittant noise has been driving me insane for the two years I've owned the car. Just discovered it's the lock button rattling. (The stem at the back of the door, not the electronic central locking button on the center console.) Always thought it was the B-pillar trim or the window until I accidentally found the source. Havent figured out what to about it yet...
Holly crap - you may be right about mine too...I kept thinking it was the B-pillar (or is it a-pillar - the pillar between window and the small triangle window) to the point that I ripped my interior trim off that pillar to see what was under it; managed to lose one of the clips in the process too, so here i sit right now with no interior trim on the pillar and still this crappy noise!

If any of you gets your problem fixed let me know so I can proceed accordingly :-)
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      09-09-2011, 07:49 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
I used some Krytox 205 grease and put a minimum amount on the raised lock "button", then cycled them a few times and it hasn't returned. I think the grease acts as a vibration absorber within that little cylinder where the button resides. May be worth a cheap shot to try before removing the panel. These parts are likely behind the plastic moisture guard, and the butyl tape is difficult to remove cleanly. Krytox I used as it doesn't dry out, it doesn't smell and it has an extreme temp rating.
Great suggestion re: the grease as a damper. I REALLY dont want to pull the panel and open the moisture barrier. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and will report back. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by robrwalker View Post
Holly crap - you may be right about mine too...I kept thinking it was the B-pillar (or is it a-pillar - the pillar between window and the small triangle window) to the point that I ripped my interior trim off that pillar to see what was under it; managed to lose one of the clips in the process too, so here i sit right now with no interior trim on the pillar and still this crappy noise!
Yep, I just knew it was the B pillar, and did the same thing to no avail. Also lost one of the clips--can get them from the dealer. Been bugging me for two years. Then for some reason I flicked the lock button and there it was... Never imagined so many others have the same issue. Good luck.
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      09-10-2011, 09:05 AM   #14
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Great suggestion re: the grease as a damper. I REALLY dont want to pull the panel and open the moisture barrier. I'll give it a shot tomorrow and will report back. Thanks!
Just be careful of the type of grease, for instance, some MIL-spec grease, like that used for AR-15 bolts, will corrode plastic. I would use krytox or plug wire grease (dielectric) and you don't need much.
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      09-10-2011, 09:36 AM   #15
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Here's the solution: Buy a roadster and all you will hear is the glorious ///M sound coming from the quad tips (aftermarket mufflers of course )
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      02-29-2012, 04:23 PM   #16
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I am experiencing this rattle with my M coupe also and it is now amplified due to my recent exhaust install. I will definetly try the grease fix and hopefully it will work.

Incedentally, I also had to pop off the B Pillar to work on the suspension recently and have lost 3 of the clips. does anyone know the part # for these things? I need to order a couple.

Thanks in advance.
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      02-29-2012, 08:00 PM   #17
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My roadster rattles... Annoying but I got use to it.
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      03-03-2012, 08:45 PM   #18
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I have the exact same issue. I thought something had broken loose between the quarter panel and interior panel. It ONLY does it when hitting an entrance (driveway, parking lot, etc) that's a different level and only when I hit it at an angle to soften the spine compressing jolt. That slight amount of body flex seems to cause it to happen. It sounds as if it's coming from just behind the seat under the front edge of the fixed window.
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      03-03-2012, 09:07 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
There was a fix for the bowden cable; Ron may have the information either here or Bimmerfest. There was a fix for newer vehicles, some type of insulation or rubber bumper to keep the cable from rattling against the metal door frame. This could be what you are hearing.
From Z4 FAQ at Bimmerfest:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...3&postcount=63
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