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      02-17-2017, 01:52 PM   #1
angelr
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Method to diagnose throttle actuator

Anybody know the best way to go about determining if you have a faulty throttle actuator? I've been chasing TPS and MAF issues recently and am still having trouble. Using inpa is there a test I can run or an expected behavior I can check? I've replaced the pedal and I have a new maf and tps sensors coming next week but since I have limited time at home before I have to travel again so I'd like to get the actuator coming if I can figure out if it is indeed bad but it's not cheap either. I've found it for 521 shipped at Turner.

Car has 130k
replaced both tps about 40k ago preventatively
replaced pedal 200 miles ago
maf on order as it failed 300 miles ago so it's currently running without maf
tps on order just in case as they're cheap

Car is throwing the following codes as well as expected maf code since it's unplugged. The car feels great until it hiccups and throws the eml,brake, engine lights.

2f08
2d07
2cf6
2cf7
2d09
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      02-17-2017, 06:58 PM   #2
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The standard way is to watch the throttle voltage on the scanner while moving the gas pedal to check for voltage spikes or drops.
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      02-20-2017, 02:20 PM   #3
angelr
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Yeah I've been doing that and yet to see anything.
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      06-27-2017, 05:54 PM   #4
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Any update?
I've been fighting a similar problem for the last few weeks.
Replaced both TPSs and MAF. Still no joy.
Runs fine under throttle. 20% of the time at idle or small throttle it runs rough, spits and pops.
Similar collection of codes. I'm wondering if my throttle actuator is miffin a toof, but I'm reluctant to spend $500+ to find out that wasn't the problem.

Went into limp on me this morning at 80 mph when I had to lift when somebody cut me off.
Forced to do a dead stick landing across about 5 lanes while rapidly losing momentum.
No fun. Did ctrl-alt-delete while coasting in the right lane.

Edit: While I'm on about it, here's some more info for the knowledge base:
Here's my code collection for the day, and this is just going to work and back. Codes were cleared before I set off.

2D07 Throttle flap 1 (is there a throttle flap 2-n?)
2CF6 Throttle valve potentiometer 1, plausibility with regard to air mass
2D09 Throttle valve
2CEE Throttle positioner, sluggish
2CEC Throttle positioner, stuck for an intermediate time

And I discovered a new mode in addition to limp mode. I'll call it "Granny mode", unless it already has a name.
Same yellow BRAKE, EML, and DSC lights as limp mode, but you still have full throttle available.
It just takes a long time to get there. Response on acceleration and deceleration is very slow and deliberate, but the zaniness of the original issue goes almost entirely away, and it gets me where I'm going.
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Last edited by StickMon; 06-27-2017 at 11:51 PM.
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      06-27-2017, 08:13 PM   #5
angelr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Any update?
I've been fighting a similar problem for the last few weeks.
Replaced both TPSs and MAF. Still no joy.
Runs fine under throttle. 20% of the time at idle or small throttle it runs rough, spits and pops.
Similar collection of codes. I'm wondering if my throttle actuator is miffin a toof, but I'm reluctant to spend $500+ to find out that wasn't the problem.

Went into limp on me this morning at 80 mph when I had to lift when somebody cut me off.
Forced to do a dead stick landing across about 5 lanes while rapidly losing momentum.
No fun. Did ctrl-alt-delete while coasting in the right lane.
Mate, I've since changed the actuator and she's been awesome! Can't say for sure it's your issues but it certainly sounds likely. If you need a hand let me know, we can knock it out in an hour or so. I've had the intake manifold off ,any times...in fact my youngest son did it last time while I coached 😊
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      06-27-2017, 08:17 PM   #6
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Did you take the cover off to see if it had bad gears?
I saw this, which claims to be for our part number, but I'm skeptical.

A couple of questions about replacing it that prevented me from trying to take it off to remove the stuck screw on the TPS:
Do the ball joints on the arm to the throttle rail just snap on/off?
How much of a PITA was it to get to the bottom bolt?
It's behind a wiring box that's behind other things and looks like it would have been a real pain to remove. I'm guessing at least one of the screws that secures it is inside the box, so I have to open the cover, all the plastic tabs will crack off, ...
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      06-28-2017, 11:38 PM   #7
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Well I'll be dipped in ...

... and rolled in bread crumbs.

After ordering the throttle actuator from Turner last night I had an idea.
I removed the 3 month old TPS #1 and replaced it with the 11 year old TPS #2 that I replaced Friday.
That can't be the problem. How can the originals last 11 years and a new one fail after only 3 months?

Runs Great!! WTF!!

So the new actuator will go into the spare parts drawer for now, and I have to order up more TPSs.
I wonder if I'll have to replace them every 3 months.

BavAuto seems to have the best price.
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      06-29-2017, 04:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Did you take the cover off to see if it had bad gears?
I saw this, which claims to be for our part number, but I'm skeptical.

A couple of questions about replacing it that prevented me from trying to take it off to remove the stuck screw on the TPS:
Do the ball joints on the arm to the throttle rail just snap on/off?
How much of a PITA was it to get to the bottom bolt?
It's behind a wiring box that's behind other things and looks like it would have been a real pain to remove. I'm guessing at least one of the screws that secures it is inside the box, so I have to open the cover, all the plastic tabs will crack off, ...
Ball joints are easy, just pop the lower off and leave the lever arm in place until the new actuator is in place and snap it on.

Bottom bolt is a bit of a pain but if you use a thin wall 1/4 socket along with removing the torx that secures the wire loom, unplug the nearby connection from it and use that extra play to slightly lower it then the job isn't bad. I didn't open it for fear of cracking. Also unbolt the idle control valve along with that. Adds 5 minutes tops.

I saw that the tps fixed it which is great! Just figured I'd answer for future searches.
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      06-29-2017, 04:36 PM   #9
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Yes, thanks for the reply. It'll happen sooner or later.
Nice to know that you don't have to remove the lid from the wiring box.
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