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      11-16-2010, 01:15 PM   #1
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3.0I to 3.0SI manifold convertion "DIY" "updated"

256HP and 228 ft-lbs of torque at the flywheel


Thanks to e90 pilot for posting his findings!!!!! so for all you early adopters who dont want to wait till spring when i can get my Z4 down AA for testing this map will work and get you where you want to be. with our less restrictive exhaust we may be right in the sweet spot!!!!! the 325I has the same engine as our Z 3.0I n52 so this map will work with our cars just fine!

Update 3: As some of you already know, I have Active Autowerke's software installed on my 325i. Drivability issues have been completely eliminated and it no longer knocks. When I first drove it, it felt faster. I just got back from Dynospot Racing in San Jose again and the numbers confirm my initial impressions. I don't have the file yet but I do have a print out. The car makes 210 hp @6200 rpm and 202 ft-lbs tq @2750 rpm. 175 ft-lbs tq are available at 1500rpm and doesn't really drop off until 6000 rpm. Since I have the 3-stage manifold there are torque peaks at 2750 and 4000 rpm. And remember, I have 127,000 miles on my car! Considering that I think I finally have a working 3-stage manifold swap with all the kinks worked out. It would be nice to get a stock 330 on the same dyno I used to see how far off I really am.

For more information on the AA tune please visit www.activeautowerke.com or PM Viral @ Active Autowerke username: Active Autowerke III.

So 210 HP and 187 ft-lbs of torque to the wheels on the best HP run. With an 18% drivetrain loss, that puts me at 256HP and 228 ft-lbs of torque at the flywheel which is right on the money for a 330i. Keep in mind two things: the 325i has a more restricted exhaust and I have 127,000 mi on my car. I think there is more HP in the engine. A cold air intake and exhaust will definatly help the HP numbers at the cost of torque. Those of you with the PBX might have to ditch the box. The engine software may not be compatible with it but I don't know for sure.






Hello guys!

I’ve finally got the process done

once I get the ECU back from AA the conversion will be done and I should have SI power in my I, 45 or more HP total.

cost of intake manifold $200 dollars used of an 09 X3 or (from a 2006 530i) prices range so keep shopping untill you find a price you like usually they are seen running between $200 to $300.
cost of ecu tune -TBD- working on getting a tru Z4 "SI mod" tune, this will cost me around $600 plus dyno time but must be done to achive true "SI" numbers. may be cheaper when all said and done just shooting for worst case.
their is also a more modest map out with net gains of around 15 to 20HP or so for $399

total for possible 45hp gain from stock = around $800!!!!! again price depends on ECU mainly.



OK so here it goes, not the best at making a DIY post but I hope this gives you all an idea of the process and or PITA level.

STEP 1: First things first, open your hood and study the contents of the manifold, wires connections, give it a very good look over to familiarize yourself with all the details of your original manifold so it will be easier to put back together later.



Step 2: Remove the plastic valve cover topper to reveal your metal valve cover and fuel rail, also remove your driver side cross brace (16mm deep-well socket or wrench) leading from the firewall to the driver side strut tower, then remove the BMW text cap with the silver lines running through it, this part simply pops off.






Step 3: Remove your air box and Air intake tubes leading to the throttle body, (use a flat-head screw driver to loosen the hose clamp where it connects to the throttle-body, pop the cover on the air filter housing and the whole section will be loose, now use a a small jewelry flat-head screw driver to release the tab/clip on air-flow sensor so you can disconnect the cable and remove the filter top and hose as one piece. Pull the air filter out (good time to inspect and upgrade to a K&N high-flow lifetime filter - K&N part # 33-2372, I saw 4 mpg increase on highway with this filter) – to remove the air filter box, simply lift the side closest to the engine upward toward you (toward the wheel), you will see the 2 rubber grommets near the wheel side begin to flex, pull up and out. When you replace it, make sure to line up the cold air intake with the rubber boot on the left side, near the headlight).
this starts to open up the area and you will be able to get your hands in much more easily. the throttle body will also have to come off as well there is a plug under it that will have to be unplugged before removal. (To remove the throttle body, first use a flat-head screw driver to loosen the hose clamp on the portion of hose left when you removed the air intake – once hose clamp is loose, pull hard and the small black hose coupler will come off of the throttle body. Using a 10mm socket and extension, remove the 4 10mm bolts – each bolt also has a washer, don’t loose them. Now you pull the throttle body out, a good time to clean it up if dirty) also remove the giant flex tubes with the rubber mounts that mount to the side of the intake manifold and push them off to the side and out of the way. also remove the sensor that sits atop the intake manifold at the back end of the manifold, the strut brace should be removed by now so you can get easy access to the sensor.







Step 4: now the two wires connected on top of the intake manifold above the throttle body are the ones that belong to the DISA valves on the three stage manifold, the one closest to the windshield will be mounted to the front facing DISA valve that is mounted directly above the throttle body, you should take time to mark this wire after disconnecting it as the outer DISA. the outer most wire which is the longer of the two will wrap around to be mounted on the inner DISA valve that faces the engine block, mark this one as inner DISA. (to remove them, simply press down and they will disconnect from their holders – note that they have clip style blank covers at the end of each wire that need to be removed before you attach them to the new DISA connection points)

Step 5: Now with the DISA wires marked and out of the way you must remove the plug on the left side of the throttle mounting plate (the throttle body must be removed by this time) these are connected with a squeeze style connector, you must pinch the two sides in order to release them. (Slide your fingers in from underneath – as there is more room to fit your fingers in – and squeeze both tabs and pull out) once this tube has been disconnected look below to find a plastic square with a bunch of wires running out of it, this must be unhooked and pulled off the tabs that are securing it. I used a sharp putty knife to wedge in there and pry it off as the tabs securing it do not depress, (start with the front two clips, wedge the putty kinfe in and work them loose while pulling on the box toward you, then do the same with the rear 2 clips, working it back and forth until it slides out to you.) once you have removed it from its securing post there is one more rubber mount under it that needs to be pushed toward the front of the car to be released from the tab this releases the bottom of the intake manifold.














Step 6: now this is where it gets "fun" our cars have a oil separator behind the manifold and the connecting lines must be disconnected before removal of the intake manifold. there is the upper one that is mounted directly behind the valve cover, it is wrapped in foam (use extreme caution as these can become brittle and brake easily) these also use the squeeze to unlock connectors and are a little tricky to get to, (I used a pair of extended and curved needle nose pliers to get in and squeeze the tabs to disconnect it), there is the one you can see and is fairly easy to get to and the other is a bear, it sits behind the intake manifold and is basically imposable to get to until you un-mount the manifold.





this is looking under the manifold at the oil seperator. the front elbow sensor has a wire attached that must be removed.



Step 7: disconnect the power plugs on your fuel rail and run the wire loom between the intake tubes that its snaking through so it’s no longer visible. once that done unscrew the fuel line bracket (using a Torx T-25 bit) that connects to the upper back portion of the manifold.





Step 8: The oil separator tubes have wires attached to them and those attach to a small connector in the back of the intake manifold and can be seen directly underneath the power brake booster vacuum line toward the rear of the manifold, unscrew this piece (Torx T-25 Bit – I left mine on and swapped it after removing the manifold as it was much easier to access the screws) as it will stay behind and not come with the manifold, you will have to mark the connectors with different colors or paint pens as once their disconnected their easy to confuse, marking them will insure proper replacement when attaching it all back together again.








Final Step. Disconnect the master brake booster vacuum hose connection where it splits, there’s a long section that runs through the intake manifold and a short section, it is also a squeeze to unlock clamp, once disconnected (Using a deep-well 11mm socket) remove the 7 intake manifold bolts that connect it to the cylinder head their are 3 nuts and 4 bolts all aluminum, when reinstalling use caution and be sure to look up proper torque lbs. I think it was 10 or 11 but don’t quote me on that.






once the bolts are removed and you can freely move the intake manifold around a little and you will be able to disconnect a wire that is connected to a sensor near the front bottom of the manifold (its connected to the farthest forward oil separator tube) after that we have two last hurdles, the bottom connector on the oil separator and the brake booster vacuum hose. I moved the intake manifold in such a way that I could get my hand in the bottom side under the oil separator and disconnect the tube, (I used the extended/curved needle nose pliers again to get in and squeeze the tabs to disconnect it) you guys are going to have to play with this one it was the hardest part of the whole swap, but I was new to this so you may have a better way of making it happen. once the tube is disconnected swing the rear part of the manifold out clockwise and pull toward you snaking the vacuum hose out from in between the manifold. its hard connected to a post and would require damaging the clamps to remove it otherwise and not very flexible this part is the easiest to damage and may just be easier to get a new one, their relatively cheap so don’t cry if you brake it.




by now the intake manifold should be out. and you should have something similar to this.






now get the new manifold and replace the manifold gaskets as they should always be replaced as they are only 16 dollars anyway, and put it all back together in reverse order. also just before you tighten down the manifold remember to plug in the new DISA valve wires into their correct DISA valve locations. (Make sure to route the rear DISA line behind the oil seperator line that runs along the inside of gthe manifold) the wires are correctly sized so you should not be able to mix them up, short wire goes to the outside DISA valve and the longer one snakes around and connects to the rear DISA valve.


Rear DISA valve connection.



Front DISA valve connection.


there you go, sorry if it’s confusing, I was learning as i go.



here is the finished job


Last edited by -c-; 08-14-2011 at 11:05 PM.
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      11-16-2010, 01:20 PM   #2
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wow, finally someone figured it out!
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      11-16-2010, 01:20 PM   #3
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congrats, was it just the manifold that needed to be updated? what about the intake and exhaust? are you going to ask AA to flash to a stock 3.0si or their upgraded chip for a 3.0si? you should've posted before (and after) dyno to really quantify the gains...

also do you have the sport pkg? if not you should try to retrofit that...
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      11-16-2010, 02:10 PM   #4
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hello, and thanks guys!


yes the intake and exhaust is the exact same between the "SI" and the "I" not so on the 3series. the Z4 SI has added exhaust tips that’s it.


as for the brakes I have the SI brake calipers and carriers as well as the dust shields so a very basic bolt on conversion to get to the 325mm SI brakes.

the springs may be just a HR conversion but that’s later.

I’ve done a few other retrofits but have to have time to make DIY for those as well.


the dyno will be done after the fact just because where im located there are no dynos any ware around here, not for around 2.5 hours away.

but either way if my car pulls near SI levels in terms of HP when I do dyno it next year spring or so I think it should give people enough proof that the conversion works. at least someone will have the potential to do a before and after dyno. also measure 0-60 times will also show similar SI levels I hope. as that will also prove as a substantial proof of added HP.

but either way it’s really a no brainer, as most aftermarket exhausts yield much less HP for just as much money as this conversions and an exhaust will give you maybe 5HP.

on the e90 forum the swap to the 3 stage manifold showed a dyno proven 10HP gain to the wheels without the tune and with a more restrictive exhaust.

with tune its possable to get it to be past the 265HP level possable to even 270 add a better rear diff and you would have very nice acceleration indeed.

Last edited by -c-; 11-16-2010 at 02:30 PM.
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      11-16-2010, 02:20 PM   #5
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      11-16-2010, 02:29 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z4-Villalona View Post
yawn



yea i know its not an M but hey, if they come out with a super charger that be better yet as are engines are lighter, hence possable better turn in (yea i know you guys have one two). either way just looking for possable things for people who dont have the M's or the SI's, no need to be mean about it!


anyway AA will also wait till i can get them a dyno chart or I drive down their so i can have the car tested and fine tuned to extract every bit i can out of it!
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      11-16-2010, 02:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -c- View Post
yea i know its not an M but hey, if they come out with a super charger that be better yet as are engines are lighter, hence possable better turn in (yea i know you guys have one two). either way just looking for possable things for people who dont have the M's or the SI's, no need to be mean about it!


anyway AA will also wait till i can get them a dyno chart or I drive down their so i can have the car tested and fine tuned to extract every bit i can out of it!
you'd have to drive down to AA hq b/c local authorized AA shops can't dyno tune, just install whatever file they get from hq.

no worries about the guy's comment above, i feel you b/c even for the 3.0si mods are really limited. i've focused mostly on suspension and braking. normally i'd tell others to go buy the /m but given you were able to source the hardware for cheap, you definitely went the better route. keep us posted.
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      11-16-2010, 02:42 PM   #8
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i was just poking fun....
i actually owned a 2.5i and loved the way it handled over the M something about electrice steering gets me everytime.

for racing i perfer si....
for showboating i stay with M division....
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      11-16-2010, 02:46 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z4-Villalona View Post
i was just poking fun....
i actually owned a 2.5i and loved the way it handled over the M something about electrice steering gets me everytime.

for racing i perfer si....
for showboating i stay with M division....



its ok! thats the problem with post's sometimes its hard to tell if someones just playing around, cant tell you how many times texting has gotten me into trouble with my wife....


anywho, im excited to give the community something they can sink their teeth into for not a lot of money but get back a huge return.

looking forward to it!
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      11-16-2010, 02:51 PM   #10
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I don't understand.. why did you need a new ECU? I did this conversion on an '06 325i (to become same specs as 330i) and I just flashed the current ECU using a GT1 + upgraded to the three stage manifold.

Does the 3.0i and 3.0si have the same exhaust as well? On the 3 series the 325i is more restrictive.

Enjoy the extra HP... makes a big difference with a negligable change in fuel economy. Same reason I'd never get a 3.0si and stick with a 3.0i given the choice. This simple cheap mod is all you need, and get to enjoy cheaper car insurance.
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      11-16-2010, 03:18 PM   #11
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I don't understand.. why did you need a new ECU? I did this conversion on an '06 325i (to become same specs as 330i) and I just flashed the current ECU using a GT1 + upgraded to the three stage manifold.

Does the 3.0i and 3.0si have the same exhaust as well? On the 3 series the 325i is more restrictive.

Enjoy the extra HP... makes a big difference with a negligable change in fuel economy. Same reason I'd never get a 3.0si and stick with a 3.0i given the choice. This simple cheap mod is all you need, and get to enjoy cheaper car insurance.
no the SI and the I's have the same exhaust just the SI's have tips attatched. www.realoem.com show them as the same part numbers.

the SI has different tuning from the factory to take advantage of the 3 stage manifold, also with different fuel and valve timing maps, the 3 stage manifold brings in the extra air and then tru 45HP then can be achived.

i plan to drive to florida in the spring to have the car tuned at AA HQ to get the most out of the engine.

even with the standard "I" tune with the manifold you would have HP gains in the 20's if not more.

I will keep everyone posted as the project unfolds.
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      11-16-2010, 05:25 PM   #12
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wow, i just hope i had a 3.0, this would be a no brainer congrats on a nice performance mod, chances are your car being even faster than a 3.0si after the ecu flash
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      11-16-2010, 07:36 PM   #13
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wow, i just hope i had a 3.0, this would be a no brainer congrats on a nice performance mod, chances are your car being even faster than a 3.0si after the ecu flash


yes their is a possability it can be faster, it will only be as fast as a tuned SI if i mod it that way, im just going to stick with a tune closly resembling a standard SI map and then in Feb. im going to AA to have them do dyno time.

after the dyno the tru 3.0I "SI" mod will be complete.

the ECU tune that im getting from AA will be a moddified 3.0I map, i will only be pulling SI numbers after the tune in feburary.
the map we will create will then be saved for future customers who wish to do this mod.

I have to take one for the team and pay full price for dyno time and ecu tuning in order to make this tune take full advantage of this mod as i trust AA over other vendors as their quality of work and history speaks for itself.

they are planning to have a SI Z4 their during the tuning so we have a control, this way we can closley match then hopfully beat stock SI numbers.

once all the benchmarking is done i will post both before tune and after tune dyno charts. may have to disconnect the disa valves to get as close to a standard "I" as possable.

to those who do not want to wait to do this mod can go ahead and do it, AA has a modified 3.0I data already for $499 and you will be close to SI levels but will be a little short as its meant for other bmw models with a more restrictive exhaust.....we just discussed all this today with AA.

Last edited by -c-; 11-16-2010 at 07:58 PM.
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      11-16-2010, 08:07 PM   #14
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Nice! If this pans out it will be a very good bang for the buck power mod... even 30 hp on a naturally aspirated engine with no drop in reliability is huge.
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      11-17-2010, 12:46 AM   #15
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Still waiting for a good update. I'm still sourcing intake manifolds too.
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      11-17-2010, 01:17 AM   #16
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thts awesome dude ...... im getting my intake manifold and related parts soon .... i have the AA reflash lined up and im putting in the sound generator as well ......

Lets hope this is the MOD everyone has been hoping it will be !!!!
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      11-17-2010, 01:55 AM   #17
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sc it.
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      11-17-2010, 10:07 AM   #18
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sc it.
no reliable SCk its besides Arma or something like that and they wanted a ridiculous amount of money.
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      11-17-2010, 11:00 AM   #19
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thts awesome dude ...... im getting my intake manifold and related parts soon .... i have the AA reflash lined up and im putting in the sound generator as well ......

Lets hope this is the MOD everyone has been hoping it will be !!!!
you will want to call viral at AA his number is 305.233.9300 / 800.830.3596 Ext. 227 and let him know you are following this thread and want the same tune i am getting, i just talked to him and their makinf arrangments in pulling in an SI z4 to gather the stock tune to flash my ecu with, then in feburary or spring i will take the car down to have it further tuned on the dyno to get hopfully abouve SI HP.

we will see!
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      11-17-2010, 11:04 AM   #20
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i sourced mine at www.car-part.com

got one of an 09 X3 for $200 shipping included.

remember you need to look up 06 to 08 bmw z4, 3.0SI, intake manifold. it will source out the correct manifolds for your car and cross reference them, also make sure the scrap yard takes pics of the manifold before you get it so you know its not banged up.

new parts are added every day and also they dissapear two! so the used ones wont last long and then youed have to wait till they show up or buy new from the dealership.


main parts you need will be,

main parts to get to do the swap.


11617559523 Intake Manifold
11617579114 Adjustor Unit
11617560538 Adjustor Unit 2
11617547242 Gasket set
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      11-17-2010, 11:05 AM   #21
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i will do that thanks ..... did the manifold you got for $200 come with the adjuster units?
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      11-17-2010, 11:11 AM   #22
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Quote:
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i will do that thanks ..... did the manifold you got for $200 come with the adjuster units?
yes it came with everything ajusters and all, just needed the new intake gasket set, that was $15.



also sometimes the scrap yards screw up and list the wrong part hence why getting the pictures is important. also see if they can find the correct part number on the part just to double check to make sure its right.
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