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      06-28-2016, 09:48 AM   #1
Diesel_d66
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Top motor may be dead

I was enjoying a nice top down day on my drive to lunch and decided the car needed a wash. Took it to a hand wash place, got it back nice and shiny, lowered the top and drove back to work. After work, lowered the top, drove home, and when I got home the top died halfway up. Had to manually raise it.

I'm guessing my top motor is dead even though I had removed the driver side drain plug. Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot? Am I looking at $2k for the labor and parts to replace the motor? If so, does anyone want to help me out on a weekend to replace it with me? I'm willing to pay for your time. I appreciate any advice.
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      06-28-2016, 10:02 AM   #2
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I paid 1k(parts + labor) for motor at an indie.If it's just the motor(probably),that's about what it should run you.
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      06-29-2016, 09:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_d66 View Post
I was enjoying a nice top down day on my drive to lunch and decided the car needed a wash. Took it to a hand wash place, got it back nice and shiny, lowered the top and drove back to work. After work, lowered the top, drove home, and when I got home the top died halfway up. Had to manually raise it.

I'm guessing my top motor is dead even though I had removed the driver side drain plug. Any suggestions on how to trouble shoot? Am I looking at $2k for the labor and parts to replace the motor? If so, does anyone want to help me out on a weekend to replace it with me? I'm willing to pay for your time. I appreciate any advice.
If you're reasonably mechanically capable you can replace the motor yourself. Shipkiller's DIY guide is pretty straight forward. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...&postcount=114
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      07-01-2016, 08:17 AM   #4
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I paid about $800 total getting a used motor off the classified section at my indie shop. $2k seems like a lot even for stealership.
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      07-01-2016, 09:48 AM   #5
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I got a brand new motor and clean out vacuum lines before I took delivery of mine last June.

There was a tropical depression a few weeks ago and it rained for a while here on Florida.

Went to put the top down after the storm and the top motor sounded muffled which meant it was UNDER WATER!

Spend about four hours yesterday on due diligence about getting a new top motor moving the top motor to the trunk, I got a quote for $1,500 plus the move. Sounds way too high so more research is needed.

Good luck to you.
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      07-02-2016, 04:49 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamingat30fps View Post
I paid about $800 total getting a used motor off the classified section at my indie shop. $2k seems like a lot even for stealership.
Dealership typically quotes $1,800 - $2,000 for the top motor replacement. The motor/pump assembly is about $600 dealer price plus about 8 hours labor at dealer rate. It adds up pretty quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deemo319 View Post
I got a brand new motor and clean out vacuum lines before I took delivery of mine last June.

There was a tropical depression a few weeks ago and it rained for a while here on Florida.

Went to put the top down after the storm and the top motor sounded muffled which meant it was UNDER WATER!

Spend about four hours yesterday on due diligence about getting a new top motor moving the top motor to the trunk, I got a quote for $1,500 plus the move. Sounds way too high so more research is needed.

Good luck to you.
I moved my motor to the trunk last time I had the top off. The move itself isn't that much work, but if you remove the top to do it you're looking at a lot of labor. I already had my top removed to replace the lift cylinders and the top canvas.

Looks like you're here in Orlando? If so and you want a hand drop me a line.
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      07-02-2016, 09:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright
Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamingat30fps View Post
I paid about $800 total getting a used motor off the classified section at my indie shop. $2k seems like a lot even for stealership.
Dealership typically quotes $1,800 - $2,000 for the top motor replacement. The motor/pump assembly is about $600 dealer price plus about 8 hours labor at dealer rate. It adds up pretty quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deemo319 View Post
I got a brand new motor and clean out vacuum lines before I took delivery of mine last June.

There was a tropical depression a few weeks ago and it rained for a while here on Florida.

Went to put the top down after the storm and the top motor sounded muffled which meant it was UNDER WATER!

Spend about four hours yesterday on due diligence about getting a new top motor moving the top motor to the trunk, I got a quote for $1,500 plus the move. Sounds way too high so more research is needed.

Good luck to you.
I moved my motor to the trunk last time I had the top off. The move itself isn't that much work, but if you remove the top to do it you're looking at a lot of labor. I already had my top removed to replace the lift cylinders and the top canvas.

Looks like you're here in Orlando? If so and you want a hand drop me a line.
dc,

I want to move the motor to the trunk because I think if I don't I just may need to do this again next year.

Thinking of just having the top manual, but I probably won't do that.

Currently I am waiting on a call from a shop in Winter Springs since they did two Z4 tops this week.

Let's talk so you can walk me through the process, if you don't mind. I will buy drinks!

And yes, I am in Orlando.
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      07-07-2016, 08:17 AM   #8
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+1 for DIY with Shipkiller's guide. It's not so bad, and don't need any special tools IIRC. I had to replace the pump on my old 3.0i sport a few years ago, I believe I paid around $400 for a new pump and maybe some fluid, can't remember... But I do remember thinking after I was done that I could do it again within an hour or two.

Watch the paint if you decide to!
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      07-11-2016, 10:59 AM   #9
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is there anyone in the maryland area that's willing to fix the pump with me? I'm willing to buy the parts and pay for the help.
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      07-17-2016, 10:27 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_d66 View Post
is there anyone in the maryland area that's willing to fix the pump with me? I'm willing to buy the parts and pay for the help.
I had mine die in a similar fashion last fall. I replaced the motor only to find out is was actually a broken wire in the harness that rubs along the tops passenger side. This harness connects the various sensors and limit switches fir the top. I repaired the wire and restored service - of course with a new motor as well. Not saying yours is nit the motor. Just recognize that it might be something else.

BTW - the motor replacement can be done at home using Shipkillers guides.

Good luck
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      07-17-2016, 05:04 PM   #11
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Mines been dead for 2 years, I would totally move it to the trunk and never look back whn I do mine..
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      04-13-2017, 04:27 PM   #12
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Finally found enough change between the cushions and a reputable shop (my local shop At Speed closed) to take in to replace the pump. look at this corroded crap.

Luckily the shop lets me bring in my parts. but the lines may need to be changed too. argh
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      04-13-2017, 10:00 PM   #13
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Special place in hell reserved for the guy that decided to locate the pump next to the water drain
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      04-16-2017, 11:46 PM   #14
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Right next to the guy that designed the Vanos exhaust hub and the guy that didn't use a key on the plate with the camshaft splines, so that the bolts are stressed in shear and well, shear.
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      04-17-2017, 11:58 AM   #15
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Got the car back and took it for a drive this weekend with the nice weather. Man was it nice to be driving it again with the top down for the first time in a few months! almost worth the $2k!

The car was covered in pollen so I took to a touchless car wash and duct taped over the driver side top drain access. Should I be concerned about the passenger side drain as well, does that drain go near the pump or any of the top mechanics?
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      04-17-2017, 12:11 PM   #16
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Two people to move the top back off the car, and the blue painters tape all along where the top meets the paint are the two most important parts of the job to remember. Also when removing the left side shelf tray support, finding the little plastic rivet in the middle top of the tray support took me a few minutes. The rest is pretty straightforward if you pay attention to all the guides out there. I am way too tall to get into the trunk but was able to reach the bolts just by leaning in and working above/behind my head. If you have any lower back problems take some ibuprofen first.
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      04-17-2017, 12:47 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel_d66 View Post
Got the car back and took it for a drive this weekend with the nice weather. Man was it nice to be driving it again with the top down for the first time in a few months! almost worth the $2k!

The car was covered in pollen so I took to a touchless car wash and duct taped over the driver side top drain access. Should I be concerned about the passenger side drain as well, does that drain go near the pump or any of the top mechanics?
You've got to take care of both drains. The passenger side drain funnel overflow won't hurt anything from the top mechanism but it will get your rear speaker wet and ruin the speaker and potentially the audio amp. There's really no place in the rear area of the passenger compartment where a water dousing won't find something bad and expensive.
The touchless car washes are even worse than a regular wash because of the higher volume of water they use. There's really no car wash that doesn't have some negative effect on a vert car. In either a touchless or a conventional car wash the chemicals (soap & wax) are designed for automotive paints, not top canvas, and they can be caustic to the cloth materials.
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      04-19-2017, 10:22 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
You've got to take care of both drains. The passenger side drain funnel overflow won't hurt anything from the top mechanism but it will get your rear speaker wet and ruin the speaker and potentially the audio amp. There's really no place in the rear area of the passenger compartment where a water dousing won't find something bad and expensive.
The touchless car washes are even worse than a regular wash because of the higher volume of water they use. There's really no car wash that doesn't have some negative effect on a vert car. In either a touchless or a conventional car wash the chemicals (soap & wax) are designed for automotive paints, not top canvas, and they can be caustic to the cloth materials.
wow. i had no idea about the potential speaker damage due to water overflow on the passenger side. and looks like i need to pick up some car wash essentials and wash the car myself. thanks for the info!

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Special place in hell reserved for the guy that decided to locate the pump next to the water drain
.... and the potential for speaker damange! that guy should be kicked in nuts!
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      04-19-2017, 11:33 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
Right next to the guy that designed the Vanos exhaust hub and the guy that didn't use a key on the plate with the camshaft splines, so that the bolts are stressed in shear and well, shear.
Might as well throw in the guy that designed the bearings, oil system.

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      04-24-2017, 02:45 PM   #20
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I think they have a justification for that.
They wanted to keep the crank short, and therefore the block, and therefore also save weight for racing.
Fine if you have a crew that's going to pull the motor and rebuild it every few races.
Not so fine for a street machine.
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