ESS VT1 455 Gen 3 Build

[Vanne]

Yep, Byron is a good bloke, and knows his stuff. But thats neither here nor there, I am sure he was just trying to help. Now dammit, show me those numbers please

[Steenos]

Alright. Lets get this straight. I understand the good intent. But lets get past that point. I disagree with his advise but that's just my opinion. Lets keep on topic here. Vanne putting some miles on the car before I take it back to the dyno. But it will happen soon.

[Vanne]

Bloody awesome mate, how's the butt dyno enjoying the show? The torque must be marvelous.. :-) more pics required. Also how do you go when you go to re-register your car and they look under the bonnet (that's hood for you guys and they see that compressor there? Do you need an engineering certificate over where you guys live or how does that work. The ESS kit looks like quality. Very bloody nice.

[Steenos]

Thanks man. The butt dyno is incredible. The torque from about 3.5k rpm to the top is awesome.

They do not look under the bonnet here. They just hook up to your obd2 as well as look under the car to make sure you have cats. I need no certificates or anything. It's pretty nice.

ESS was able to tune for everything as well as make it o2 ready for emissions. Oh trust me there will be more video/pictures.

Originally Posted by Vanne

Bloody awesome mate, how's the butt dyno enjoying the show? The torque must be marvelous.. :-) more pics required. Also how do you go when you go to re-register your car and they look under the bonnet (that's hood for you guys and they see that compressor there? Do you need an engineering certificate over where you guys live or how does that work. The ESS kit looks like quality. Very bloody nice.

[Steenos]

I'm an Air Traffic Controller and I was leaving work today. My coworker heard the Jet Engine sound it makes when the supercharger is cold and yelled, "Cleared for takeoff!". Haha

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Steenos

Alright. Lets get this straight. I understand the good intent. But lets get past that point. I disagree with his advise but that's just my opinion.

I've seen several cars where perfectly good stock motor mounts failed after dramatically increasing the HP of the engine. Some failures caused plenty of carnage, huge dents in the hood, twisted and or cracked brackets, torn hoses, damaged headers/exhaust, and so on. I'm not saying it will happen to your car, but adding allot of extra HP increases the likelihood for stock mounts to flex too much and or eventually fail, so Beedub's recommendation to use stiffer mounts is sound advice.

Looking forward to a dyno chart showing your new found power.

[Beedub]

Originally Posted by pungo

I've seen several cars where perfectly good stock motor mounts failed after dramatically increasing the HP of the engine. Some failures caused plenty of carnage, huge dents in the hood, twisted and or cracked brackets, torn hoses, damaged headers/exhaust, and so on. I'm not saying it will happen to your car, but adding allot of extra HP increases the likelihood for stock mounts to flex too much and or eventually fail, so Beedub's recommendation to use stiffer mounts is sound advice.

Looking forward to a dyno chart showing your new found power.

bingo bingo bingo.... this isn't a guess, it WILL happen on the stock mounts, the engine moves around WAY to much with the added Tq, HP. i watched mine on the dyno and could not believe how much the engine was lifting up, easily enough to compromise the hood.

[Steenos]

This is not a thread about replacing my stock engine mounts. It's a thread about my build process and the increase in power. Once again. Lets stay on topic.

[Steenos]

This tune is Spot on. I can't wait to see the dyno numbers. Need to do an oil change in 500 miles too =/

[Steeler]

Steenos, double check all your clamped connections. I had a silicone coupler come loose on me shortly after my installation and I think Pokey had the same. A couple of heat cycles may leave the clamps loose.

[Steenos]

Originally Posted by dbarton62

Steenos, double check all your clamped connections. I had a silicone coupler come loose on me shortly after my installation and I think Pokey had the same. A couple of heat cycles may leave the clamps loose.

Thank you sir! I'll check.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Steenos

This is not a thread about replacing my stock engine mounts. It's a thread about my build process and the increase in power. Once again. Lets stay on topic.

If you post a build thread and people with lots of experience provide good advice that is relevant to the thread, you should thank them and move on, not dis what they are saying. I not sure what you consider a "build process", but bolting on some proven parts in a kit form with instructions is pretty basic stuff, it's not like you are doing anything new that hasn't been done a whole lot.

Sorry you think providing good advice to prevent damage to your car from your "build process" is off topic.

[Steenos]

I never said I was doing anything new. I was sharing my experience. It may be good advice, and I said in an earlier post, I understand the good intent of the advice. I'm not hating on Byron or anyone in this thread.

I am choosing to not do the mounts at this time.

[tikamak]

Originally Posted by Steenos

I never said I was doing anything new. I was sharing my experience. It may be good advice, and I said in an earlier post, I understand the good intent of the advice. I'm not hating on Byron or anyone in this thread.

I am choosing to not do the mounts at this time.

I broke new ones in 1 week after ESS VT2-500 the original mounts move a lot and this will let the added power massacre it in no time.

if you don't want to go with vibra technics, go with Vorshlag red ones (cheaper), they have a bolt through design that is extremely tough and provide almost no increase in NVH, use stock trans mounts, this will let you shift faster as well.

This is my piece of advice sir.

[Steenos]

Thank you and Byron for the advice.

[Arsonism]

Originally Posted by tikamak

I broke new ones in 1 week after ESS VT2-500 the original mounts move a lot and this will let the added power massacre it in no time.

if you don't want to go with vibra technics, go with Vorshlag red ones (cheaper), they have a bolt through design that is extremely tough and provide almost no increase in NVH, use stock trans mounts, this will let you shift faster as well.

This is my piece of advice sir.

If you can, go Vibra Technics. They are some very serious mounts and I would vouch for them day and night.

[pungo]

Maybe the title should be changed to Motor Mounts for "ESS VT1 455 Gen 3 Build". Just kidding...

Seriously though, how much boost are you seeing with this kit? How easy is it to break the tires loose in 2nd? Might want to enable "///M track mode".

[Arsonism]

Sorry for the thread jack pungo

[Steenos]

pungo, I'm not really sure. I need to get a boost gauge badly. Gonna get the p3 vent gauge.

[pungo]

Originally Posted by Steenos

pungo, I'm not really sure. I need to get a boost gauge badly. Gonna get the p3 vent gauge.

The P3 gauge should should provide plenty of important data. Have you seen any of the phone apps that pulls data, including boost from the OBD II interface? Though not as clean as the P3, the price is much less.

[Vanne]

Originally Posted by Steenos

I'm an Air Traffic Controller and I was leaving work today. My coworker heard the Jet Engine sound it makes when the supercharger is cold and yelled, "Cleared for takeoff!". Haha

Lol, where abouts? tower, smc or center? might have chatted to ya already

[tikamak]

Originally Posted by Steenos

Thank you and Byron for the advice.

Just to give some evidence, this is a picture of the mechanic holding the engine mounts for me.
Notice how new the rubber on the outside still is and how the engine mount was torn apart into 2 pieces.




This is the new vorshlag engin mount design and from personal experience i've liked them a LOT, the bushing are also serviceable and cost 99$