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SUPPORT ZPOST BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER, THANKS! |
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10-17-2014, 02:42 PM | #23 |
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Welcome.
We appreciate non-M E85/6 as much as M Versions. Either one of them are a blast to drive and despite a rough start you will be loving the car once you settle down with it |
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10-17-2014, 03:35 PM | #24 |
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There are actually two ride-height sensors on the suspension for adjusting the adaptive xenons- passenger side front and rear. The rear one is hard to inspect unless you have it raised and/or the wheel off
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10-18-2014, 10:20 PM | #25 |
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Well, it's been a helluva day. Spent most of it doing the front brakes and an oil change. As usual, it took me about 2 hours to do one side and about 30 minutes to do the other. And the oil change was a solid hour of work. Setup and cleanup another hour.
So around 4, I took it out to seat the brakes. Everything was fine for about 5 miles. Did progressively stops, but never had to sit still. Then something went terribly wrong. I was in 2nd or 3rd gear on a back country road and something went "bang" and I could hear something dragging. Pretty sure I felt it through the steering wheel, so I assumed some kind of catastrophic failure in the braking system - felt like the left front. I coasted to the side of the road (pretty crappy place to have to stop) and called a wrecker. Told them specifically that I needed a flat bed and an hour and a half later, a tire hauler pulled up. After confirming that it wouldn't work, he called another company and another 45 minutes later a flat bed showed up. At least I had time to finally read the owner's manual (did you guys even know that the roundel on the hatch could open the trunk!?). and pop the hood - I didn't seal up the oil filter cap well, so there is fresh oil splattered all over the engine compartment. Anyway, I had him unload it in the driveway around 7 and there it sits. The oil plug hatch definitely came loose - that might have been what I heard dragging. But it's definitely leaking something - not entirely sure what it is - please god, not transmission fluid... |
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10-19-2014, 02:14 AM | #26 |
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mate if its just the oil plug, no dramas, shitty cleanup, but no dramas buddy. and to boot, you learned not to do that again, so not too foul mate
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10-19-2014, 08:35 AM | #27 |
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I don't remember seeing any warning lights, so maybe that's a good sign. And the brakes had pedal pressure, the engine started while trying to load on the tire hauler, the clutch worked. So (fingers crossed) maybe this was just that stupid hatch coming loose and a poor re-installation of the oil filter cap.
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10-19-2014, 12:23 PM | #28 |
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Yep, that's what it looks like happened. I think that I would have had a lot more oil all over the engine if not for the hatch popping off. So I checked everything out - pulled the wheels and looked over the brakes - everything there looks good. I replaced the new seal with the old one, found a mark on the cap and block, lined those up and it seems to have sealed. Left the hatch off. Still has a lot of oil in the pan underneath the engine, but overall, it's a big relief that nothing catastrophic happened. In related news, the "engineer" that designed that hatch has a kick in the chipotle coming. Nerves were shot yesterday.
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10-19-2014, 12:29 PM | #29 |
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Not reeeeeal sure, but I do not remember anyone else having rear hatch issues on their E86's.
I think this was a one off... |
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10-19-2014, 03:32 PM | #31 |
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Methinks that a quick trip to a dealer or a good Indy shop for a lookover will pay big dividends to your peace of mind.
I'm glad though that the car seems okay. |
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10-19-2014, 05:21 PM | #32 |
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Yeah, I know it seems like I shouldn't judge, but I don't trust *anyone* with my vehicles.
I put about 25 miles on it today, and everything seems ok - no leaks, brakes are fine, etc. |
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10-19-2014, 08:33 PM | #33 |
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Nice looking car. Glad everything worked out and there wasn't any real damage. It's funny that you don't trust *anyone* with your vehicles though you performed a simple oil change that caused a large oil leak and the oil plug access panel to open while driving which you had to call a rollback to get you back home. Making mistakes are a sure way to learn what not to do.
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10-20-2014, 05:17 AM | #34 |
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10-20-2014, 07:05 AM | #35 | |
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I agree with you on the *anyone* concept re working on my car. I'm fortunate enough to have a good local dealer who I trust implicitly. I also figure that if, in the very unlikely event that they did something like this to my car and it somehow ruined the motor, they would not hesitate to step up and make it right.
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10-20-2014, 07:17 AM | #36 |
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Heh - yeah, this wasn't my best effort, that's for sure.
In other completely unrelated news, I finally got the stupid pistons off the rods this weekend... And the crank looks ok... The top of that burnt piston welded into the oiling hole on the connecting rod... |
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10-20-2014, 09:29 AM | #37 |
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[QUOTE=Knoxes;16805947]
In other completely unrelated news, I finally got the stupid pistons off the rods this weekend... The top of that burnt piston welded into the oiling hole on the connecting rod... Ouch. What's that off of? a motorcycle? -gc |
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10-20-2014, 11:55 AM | #39 |
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I knew a guy years ago with a CB400 F Super Sport. Neat bike with the factory four into one exhaust.
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10-24-2014, 07:24 AM | #41 |
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10-24-2014, 08:16 AM | #42 |
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It looks like it was pretty close before the changes, but the alignment really had a significant effect on the handling. It certainly tracks much better than before. It does feel ... more loose, I guess... with the Conti's (compared to the stock RF's). I don't like that so much.
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10-28-2014, 08:28 AM | #43 |
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Not sure what happened here, but when I was roadside with the hazards on, it eventually killed the battery and I had to jump it to get it started again. Reset the clock and everything seems ok.... except the windows, which will no longer one-click up (not entirely sure they did before, but I think they did...). I parked it for a week and the clock had to be reset again even though I had no problems starting it.
And now the left side fog is out... |
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10-28-2014, 08:44 AM | #44 | |
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The Official Reset Proceedure Courtesy of a BMW tech on another forum, ...with thanks. Initialization is performed on the power window switch of the relevant door. Requirements for correct initialization: • Initialization with engine running • Convertible top, doors and windows closed Initialization comprises: • Erasure of initialization • Reinitialization An initialization must be performed: • In the event of malfunctions, e.g. no one-touch control function, no opening or if available no comfort function is possible • After the power window drive has been replaced • After work is carried out on the power window mechanism • After a power supply interruption, e.g. disconnection of the battery or disconnection of the power supply to the door • After the door window glass has been removed and installed or replaced • After adjustment work on the door window glass • After adjustment work on the convertible top • After replacement of seals Erasure of initialization: • Open door window glass fully • Operate power window switch in "Open" position four times within 10 seconds This erases initialization of the power window, anti-trapping protection and toll function are inactive. Check whether one-touch control (toll) function is inactive, otherwise repeat procedure. Reinitialization: Avoid a break between the two steps! • Open door window glass fully • Operate and hold power window switch in "Close" position (second switch stage) • Once the upper end position has been reached, hold power window switch in "Close" position for approx. 2 seconds longer • Open door window glass fully • Operate and hold power window switch in "Close" position (second switch stage) • Once the upper end position has been reached, hold power window switch in "Close" position for approx. 2 seconds longer |
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