My alignment specs

[Daemonblitz]

I have had a few people ask so I thought I would share, this alignment was done after my H&R coilovers went on.
A few things to note, I do not have camber plates, all I have is alignment pins removed and the Turner Motorsport Camber kit (same as E36)
Also the units below after the degrees are in minutes and seconds (not decimal as most are use to seeing), so I have converted those as well.
I am aware that the specs are not 100% matching, however considering the mileage on my car, the sum of all the original components, and the 2+hours that went in to doing it while I was sitting in the car, I was very happy with the results.

Your opinions/thoughts are welcome.
Converted camber measurements to decimal degrees:

Front Left Camber 3.38
Front Right Camber 3.33

Rear Left Camber 3.10
Rear Right Camber 3.11

If you would like to convert other measurements here is the calculator I used.
http://www.rapidtables.com/convert/n...to-degrees.htm

[Westersund]

What's the reason you went with so much camber in the rear?

[Daemonblitz]

I wanted it to be more on the aggressive side, and I really love the look. Plus I wanted to get as little rub as possible on the inner fender without having to roll them. As far as tire wear I always get directional tires and just end up flipping inside to outside/ left to right so they keep wearing evenly.

Originally Posted by Westersund

What's the reason you went with so much camber in the rear?

[Westersund]

Ok, I was wondering since too much camber in the rear can cause even more oversteer. But if you're considering rub also I can see the point of quite a bit of camber.

[Mirko]

That is a lot of camber in the front for not having camber plates. I was getting 2.9 in the front and almost at the max for the camber plate. Same for rear that is a lot, do you have the adjustable control arms? Bet its a fun ride though :P

[Daemonblitz]

Originally Posted by Mirko

That is a lot of camber in the front for not having camber plates. I was getting 2.9 in the front and almost at the max for the camber plate. Same for rear that is a lot, do you have the adjustable control arms? Bet its a fun ride though :P

Everything else is stock suspension-wise other than pins pulled, camber bolt kit and the coilovers. I do like the ride though, soon I'll get some better rear tires so it doesn't break traction so easily, currently have RS-3s on the front but Ventus V12s on the rear

[Mirko]

Originally Posted by Daemonblitz

Everything else is stock suspension-wise other than pins pulled, camber bolt kit and the coilovers. I do like the ride though, soon I'll get some better rear tires so it doesn't break traction so easily, currently have RS-3s on the front but Ventus V12s on the rear

I think maybe the shop I took it to the monkeys couldn't get it right to give me more camber in the front. They had a hard time with camber plates. I don't get how shops have a hard time with camber plates. They are the easiest thing in the world to use yet every shop I've gone to is scared of them and barely any know how to use them. This was a performance shop too. lol

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by Daemonblitz

Everything else is stock suspension-wise other than pins pulled, camber bolt kit and the coilovers. I do like the ride though, soon I'll get some better rear tires so it doesn't break traction so easily, currently have RS-3s on the front but Ventus V12s on the rear

JM2C;
it will be hard to improve traction with that rear camber regardless of tires.
Especially true at the track when you get on it after the apex.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by Mirko

I think maybe the shop I took it to the monkeys couldn't get it right to give me more camber in the front. They had a hard time with camber plates. I don't get how shops have a hard time with camber plates. They are the easiest thing in the world to use yet every shop I've gone to is scared of them and barely any know how to use them. This was a performance shop too. lol

I have -3.2 front with Vorshlag plates

It makes a big difference on the design of the top nut on the damper shaft.
Many coilovers top nut comes up against the rim of the opening, others (eg KW cs) the top nut passes under the lip allowing more adjustment of the camber plates.

There are a couple of solutions to this, depending on the COs used.
I don't recall what the KW v3 looks like.

[Daemonblitz]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

JM2C;
it will be hard to improve traction with that rear camber regardless of tires.
Especially true at the track when you get on it after the apex.

Good to know, I don't feel so badly now for having mismatched front/rear tires, yet still my goal is to get RS-3s on the back as well. They definitely run wider than the V12s so I'll have to watch out for the rear rubbing.

[Shipkiller]

I run -2.0 (both sides) of rear camber and I cannot get any more from the stock camber arms..

I have run -3.4 up front, but you WILL cord the inner 1/2 inch of tire with that much camber running on the street (inside 3000 miles). This happened to me. A brand new set of PSS's were shot.

I normally run -2.5 up front and have for over four years with no abnormal wear.... The tipping point for harsh wear seems to be 'around' -2.7 to 2-9, and this will depend on other factors on your suspension.

I have also found that putting a 100 or so pounds in the drivers seat for the alignment really does not accomplish much, in all actuality. If this was a track only monster that you trailered to each event or race, and you had YEARS of driving experience, you still might not be able to tell if you did or did not put the weight in the car for alignment.

We did a simple experiment at the shop I go to a couple of years ago. We aligned my car. I drove around the block and we put the car up on the rack to check the alignment. The alignment had changed a slight amount. We did this six times. Each time the alignment values were different. So in all actuality, putting weight in the car for the alignment does not gain you anything.

[inTgr8r]

Interesting!
I'm running -3.2 front camber and haven't experienced the inner wear problem.
I get there with camber plates not the camber kit at the bottom of the strut.
I wonder if the added scrub radius with the kit is a contributing factor?
I'm also running zero toe which definitely helps.