Any help greatly appreciated...

[headshrinker]

I have a 2008 Z4MC with approximately 38K miles. Sunday morning, started her and had a very strange rough, rumbling idle. Shortly thereafter, yellow "service engine soon" light appears. I drove for a very short distance around the neighborhood and marked decrease of power, engine obviously not running correctly. Of course, I am taking it to the service department this Saturday, but prior to that time, does anybody have any idea what this might be?? Forgive my ignorance as I certainly not a mechanic, but I certainly would appreciate any knowledge of what this problem might be!

[wss4]

most likely failed coilpack

[elerner61]

With coil packs, are there any that last longer than roughly 30-40k? I've got one in the car as a safety spare, but I'm thinking for roughly $200 in parts, why not just do them all as preventative maintenance.

Thoughts?

[DataStream18]

Most all last a very long time 60-90k+ but sometimes there is just a bad one. Take it to autozone or orielly's or any auto place so they can scan it and they'll be able to tell you what the code is. Tell em you have a check engine light on.


It will give you a better idea when you get it to the shop.

[headshrinker]

Thank you gentlemen for the responses; I read more about a failed coilpack and the description I read about a car's behavior once this occurs is exactly what the moupe is doing! Thanks again and I appreciate your help! With the next question I will sound ignorant as hell, but is it safe to drive to the dealership approximately 15 miles at a very low speed with low RPMs?

[gtMc]

i dont know if its safe or not, but for that reason alone i'd get out my roadside assistance card just to be safe and get a flatbed out to the house.

[Kgolf31]

I blew a coil at 25k miles. It happens.

You're running on 5 cylinders, which explains the rough idle and decrease of power (limp mode).

Easy swap-out and you'll be fine. Nothing to be concerned about.

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by gtMc

i dont know if its safe or not, but for that reason alone i'd get out my roadside assistance card just to be safe and get a flatbed out to the house.

I used to have an extra set of coilpacks in the trunk of my 1.8T so I can just change on spot if necessary lol.

[DataStream18]

YOu can limp it to the dealer if you want to, I'd just get a flat bed tow there, its easier honestly. If you were close I'd say drive it but that's a little bit far. Your insurance should cover towing upto x amount of miles usually.

Or you can buy a coil pack, unplug your battery ((-) Negative terminal) for 30 minutes while you work on it. There is a DIY on here some where. Stupid easy!

[DataStream18]

Originally Posted by Dubbedown

I used to have an extra set of coilpacks in the trunk of my 1.8T so I can just change on spot if necessary lol.

Hahaha oh ya, mine would only last 15k, went through 3 before selling it, stupid MKiv!

[3002 tii]

Originally Posted by DataStream18

Hahaha oh ya, mine would only last 15k, went through 3 before selling it, stupid MKiv!

Truth be told, I know the 2.0tfsi >>> 1.8T any day but sometimes I miss the look of a lowered GLI or GTI on 18" BBS. APR stage 1, downpipe, Milltek catback, Eibachs and you got yourself a sweet daily.

Man I should sell my daily and look for a nice 20th anniversary GTI.

/thread jack

[trialskid]

You risk damage to
Your catalytic converters driving with misfire

[DataStream18]

Originally Posted by trialskid

You risk damage to
Your catalytic converters driving with misfire

Details?

[pokeybritches]

He's correct - the damage is the result of too much unburned fuel in the mix.

My vote is for BMW Assist or towing if it's free. I would replace the ignition coil at home if you can't swing free towing. Only drive to the dealer as a last resort.

Pull the codes if you're able. A failed coil will result in a "misfire cylinder _" code, P030X. Without pulling the codes you won't know which coil to replace.

Lastly, even if you do have the misfire code, it may not be a failed coilpack that caused it. In my experience, a failing spark plug will cause a one-time misfire resulting in a hard SES light. A failed coilpack (usually) causes a continuous misfire. This isn't always the case, but according to your description it sounds like you have a failed ignition coil.

On the 1.8T Audi/VW engine- I lived out every gearhead male's adult film fantasy when I replaced a coil on a damsel in distress' VW Bug. I pulled the code, talked to the guys at Autozone, saved the girl hundreds of dollars at the stealership, and did one of the only basic maintenance items I knew how to do at the time... replace the plug and reset a check engine light. One thing led to another...

[phoenixbmwlife]

I agree its a cylinder misfire and one of the coils needs to change. But the only way to know is to put it up on the computer. Pretty common with our cars and 3 series after a certain mileage they all start to go one by one. But sometimes only one can go so don't change all 6 unless another goes sometime soon. Where ever you take it to get it changed they might tell you to change all 6 but might be a waste cause the others might have nothing to do with that one going. It's not terribly dangerous to drive with 5 cylinders, in the older cars it would be more a problem but with our cars BMW shut off things that would cause a problem so 15 miles wont hurt at all. No need to call AAA or a towing company. One of mine just went out last week and my sister's own went out a few months ago. A BMW certified tech will tell you the same thing. No big deal just change it out, mine cost $164 with parts and labor.

[Rick Hunter]

Originally Posted by Dubbedown

I used to have an extra set of coilpacks in the trunk of my 1.8T so I can just change on spot if necessary lol.

I have a spare pack in my trunk just for this situation

[txz4]

If its a coil its unbelievable how easy it is to replace... If you can get a code reader to it to find out which one to change, its an easy fix.

[bignosejim]

You don't even need a code reader. Just disconnect the electrical lead to one coil at a time with the engine idling. When there is no change in idle you found the failed coil. Replace it and see if it runs smoother. Then go to Autozone or someplace and have them clear your check engine light and see if it stays out.

[pokeybritches]

^this would work

[gcochard]

Originally Posted by bignosejim

You don't even need a code reader. Just disconnect the electrical lead to one coil at a time with the engine idling. When there is no change in idle you found the failed coil. Replace it and see if it runs smoother. Then go to Autozone or someplace and have them clear your check engine light and see if it stays out.

This method is even more fun when you have a car with a distributor. I've been shocked quite a few times looking for bad spark plugs.

[headshrinker]

Hello everyone, Thanks again to all for the responses! To be safe, Roadside asst will flatbed my baby to the dealership tomorrow. Even if the repair is stupid easy, it likely will be to much for my simple mind!! Thanks again all and enjoy the weekend...

[Endless619]

Originally Posted by headshrinker

I have a 2008 Z4MC with approximately 38K miles. Sunday morning, started her and had a very strange rough, rumbling idle. Shortly thereafter, yellow "service engine soon" light appears. I drove for a very short distance around the neighborhood and marked decrease of power, engine obviously not running correctly. Of course, I am taking it to the service department this Saturday, but prior to that time, does anybody have any idea what this might be?? Forgive my ignorance as I certainly not a mechanic, but I certainly would appreciate any knowledge of what this problem might be!

That happened to mine last year and it was an O2 sensor since I lived right on the beach they tend to go faster than normal. Almost identical story. Mine ended up being a $781 bill from the dealer as my warranty just expired a month prior.