Thoughts On PPI's?

[UntzUntzUntz]

Hey guys,

I'm looking to check out a coupe from a forum member that's out of state, he's probably looking at this post now. I scheduled a PPI at an official BMW dealer and man was I blown away. The last PPI someone did on my ex-z4m paid around $130 at a bmw dealer. This dealer quoted me an estimate of $310 with tax! All they do is check the codes, a visual check and drive the car. I asked if I can at least get a carfax but not even that lol.

First of all, there's tax for labor?

Second, what should I specifically ask them to look for in the PPI? I would like an oil analysis but that'll probably be more than a 1 day process. Valve adjustment? Let me know!

Third, would you recommend an official bmw dealership or reputable independent bmw service shop?

Lastly, are these PPI's even worth it? Sounds like a 5 minute task and knowing my luck it'll probably be done by a 20 year old named Craig in his 2nd hour of training...

Thanks!

[Redacre]

PPI from my indy 2 years ago was about $200 or $250 and took about 2 hours or so. I'm not surprised the dealer would charge more and it doesn't sound insane but I would share your concern about what tech you get. I went to a BMW specialist and it was absolutely worth it because he knew more than I ever will about these cars (my first BMW coming from a RX7 and 911). Good luck!

[XMetal]

From what you've described, I would certainly NOT have that dealer do the PPI. Ask around the forum for recommended independents to do the PPI. I only visit dealers for warranty work (only because I have to).

[dc_wright]

Generally what I've seen done at the BMW dealer for a PPI is a version of the superficial check they do to upsell you more services when you go for an oil change.

What they won't do that should be part of a PPI is:

Pull all 4 wheels to do a detail inspection of the calipers and pads.

Sample the brake fluid at the calipers.

Check the interior of the wheels for damage or cracking.

Drop the under carriage plastics and guards to inspect the bottom of the engine for leaks, and same for the tranny.

Pull the fill plug on the tranny and sample the condition of the fluid.

Remove the under guards and check the giubo and center shaft bearing.

Check the rear CV joint boots for cracks or tears, and checking the half axles for excessive play.

Pull the fill plug on the diff and check the condition of the fluid.

Pull the rear rotors and inspect the e-brake.

While the under carriage covers are off, check the condition of the rubber and metal brake lines.

Pull the top cover off the engine and inspect for leaks.

Remove the coil packs and plugs and inspect them end boots on the coil packs and the condition of the plugs.

Do a compression check while the plugs are out.

Do a visual inspection of the condition of the valve train through the oil filler cap. (It's limited what you can see but generally indicative of internal condition.)

Remove the oil filter cap or pull dip stick if available and sample the condition of the oil.

Remove the radiator cap and inspect condition of the coolant. Check specific gravity.

Check the condition of the brake fluid in the reservoir.

Then complete all the rest of the usual checks.

[Reborn_]

At that price, I would fly out myself and check it out. I would probably do that regardless. I don't like the idea of buying a car sight unseen.

I bought my coupe in Portland and drove it back. It's actually a comfy ride for long distances IMO.