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      05-24-2017, 06:21 PM   #1
bananabun
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BBK Install DIY?

I have a Racing Brake BBK on the way, with only one weekend to perform the install before I head to Watkins Glen early June. I've done brake fluid and pads before, but this seems like a more involved process especially when it comes to trimming dust shields and handbrake adjustment.

Is there a BBK install DIY somewhere? If not, can anybody with experience please chime in on

1. The correct order to do it? So far, I found caliper off -> lines off -> rotor off -> then install bracket, rotors, caliper, lines.

2. What's the deal with handbrake adjustment? Guys at RB said I might have to do this, but I have no idea what it means or how to do this.

3. It seems like the front dust shield needs to be trimmed, but do you guys remove yours completely or keep them?

Thanks in advance for any input!
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      05-24-2017, 06:27 PM   #2
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http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=828344
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      05-24-2017, 06:31 PM   #3
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eBrake adjustment:

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      05-24-2017, 06:45 PM   #4
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Thanks, Hack. Very helpful, as always.

So for the parking brake, the point is to tighten all the way and then loosen it to match the brake lever being in down position correct?

I'm going to use your instructions for the rear line install, but not sure what the assembly looks like as yet. Will probably spend some time inspecting it with the wheel off before I try anything. Anything you would add here?

2. To facilitate the rear caliper install, loosely attach the angled banjo adapter to the line with the swivel fitting, loosely attach the banjo adapter with the copper washers to the mounted caliper, then do your magic with attaching the line to the bracket, then the 2nd line to the bracket AND the chassis fitting. Tighten the swivel fitting by hand with an 11mm wrench, do not over-tighten. Then tighten the banjo fitting to 15 ft-lbs.

3. For an OEM like fit using the factory mounting bracket, which is recommended by ME because this will prevent the line from coming into contact with various moving parts in the rear, you should follow the steps above. If you choose not to use the factory mounting, you can attach the two lines together ahead of time, and zip tie the lines to the rear trailing arm. This method will make sure there's minimum fluid loss and prevent air from entering and getting trapped in places you don't want it getting trapped.
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      05-24-2017, 07:14 PM   #5
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Man it's been so long I don't really remember why I recommended it that way. I think if you tighten the banjo bolt first, it doesn't give you enough flex in the line to tighten it right at the first bracket.

Logically on the front, it made perfect sense to get the brake lines installed on the assembly beforehand. On the back it's a lot trickier because the Z4 M uses a compound, 2 piece line on each side.

Helps if you have a golf tee to plug up the hard line on the chassis side to prevent too much fluid loss.

As for the ebrake adjustment, I would pull the handbrake up 3 clicks, tighten the cog until the wheel doesn't turn, then release the handbrake, then loosen the cog until the wheel spins freely.

Unfortunately I've converted to studs, so on my car this is all a guessing game.
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      05-24-2017, 07:33 PM   #6
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Ideally, I would drain out all the fluid first but I guess then I risk the chance of air entering the system. Anyway, I need to look at the rear lines first since I wasn't paying attention to them during bleeding and pad changes. Thanks for the tips!
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      05-24-2017, 11:06 PM   #7
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DO NOT let the reservoir run dry.
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      06-02-2017, 05:57 PM   #8
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Hack, for the caliper bolts (mounting and adapter) did you use BMW TIS torque specs or the RB ones? RB says 55-65 ft/lbs according to their website..
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