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02-22-2014, 08:48 PM | #1 |
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TPS type issue - strut brace causing?
Alright, strange question - maybe coincidence.
Installed this cross brace - since I have had two incidents of the TPS type hesitations and three lights coming on and car in limp mode until I restart - only happens on light throttle application after car is fully warmed. Would the brace placing any kind of pressure on the tube below have any direct effect, or should I proceed with replacing the TPS and then exploring the accelerator pedal unit for replacement? Strange enough.
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02-22-2014, 09:03 PM | #2 |
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Sorry, should add - 58k miles, only driven fully on road for 3 weekends as it's a new car to me. 1st weekend, no brace, no issues. Last 2 weekends, brace installed, both had TPS like issues.
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02-22-2014, 11:38 PM | #4 |
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Looks like the bar is pressing on the air tube? Can't really tell from the picture. The engine does move quite a bit while the car is moving. So...I wouldn't use any bar that would have any chance of making contact with any part of the engine...just my opinion.
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02-23-2014, 08:02 AM | #5 | |
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the VT comp engine mounts cut movement to nothing however, but i agree the motor moves around enough that what i see in your pic concerns me...
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02-23-2014, 05:25 PM | #6 | |
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Just seems too coincidental, but in this case, you never know. Could be just a 'thing', but I'd rather err on the safe side either way. I will update if anything else happens. I got a new TPS just in case ready to install. I did pull off the old TPS, clean it out and clean the electronic connectors. I will be looking for a new accelerator pedal in the mean time as well.
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02-24-2014, 02:35 AM | #7 |
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So we'll never know if the brace caused your faults (really).
Does anyone know what a small amount of pressure on that plastic (metal?) elbow would do specifically? Could u remove it and shave 1/4" off it? |
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02-24-2014, 08:21 AM | #8 |
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OP cant you just add some spacer washers under the brace bolted ends?? The stock one kinda has these built basically.... The stock unit doesnt sit "flush" with the turret, it has 3 "feet" that space it evenly
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02-24-2014, 09:55 AM | #9 | |
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02-24-2014, 10:36 AM | #10 |
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I am seeing if the issue arises with the new TPS on the engine, if not, I'll try swapping the pedal and see if that works. I would think the pedal could also be considered a TPS in a way as it is a drive by wire system. No codes thrown, just the 3 lights until I restart the car - EML, DSC, Brake.
Let me expand on my symptoms - normally low RPM, happened in first gear slowly going along in bumper to bumper traffic, pushed on the gas and it hesitates, then throws the lights on dash. Restart and goes fine. Cruising along in fifth gear, lightly pressing the gas, hesitates as above, throws the lights and drops to idle - I turn off and restart while still rolling, and it runs fine. I have also hit the gas while slowly accelerating, it hesitates, then kicks in after I push the pedal down farther.
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02-24-2014, 10:49 PM | #11 |
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I had Strong Strut rub against the tube because they sent me the wrong hat. The car never hesitated due to rubbing. The symptom and warning lights do point to TPS. IIRC, TPS needs replacement after battery went completely dead.
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02-25-2014, 08:03 AM | #12 |
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Thanks! That's where I'm going to start - replacing the TPS on the front of the engine. 5 minute job and will see what happens after.
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03-04-2014, 08:47 AM | #13 |
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Follow up - new TPS installed. Zero issues. Car actually throttle modulates much better. Quick fix! Thanks for the replies!
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03-04-2014, 05:00 PM | #14 | |||
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Do I need to have the DME reset with a BMW GT1??? |
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03-05-2014, 02:34 PM | #15 |
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Reset adaptation if it helps. Seem like all kinds of issue with weak or dead battery with this car. Lucky I replaced my battery before it went bad. Why not use DIS to troubleshoot this issue?
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03-06-2014, 10:45 AM | #16 | |
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Would a bad accelerator pedal cause the car not to idle properly?? |
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03-06-2014, 11:08 PM | #17 |
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I lean more toward bad cam position sensor or coil.
Why not get diagnostic software off eBay. Most come with all the tools to read faults. It is not difficult to setup once you understand how all the pieces work together. The main thing is to get the right cable. I have older E36 which needs ADS interface. It costs more, but ODB cables and software can be had for around $40 to $50. |
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03-07-2014, 04:21 PM | #18 | |
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03-07-2014, 04:51 PM | #19 |
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This is one possible option.
I bought this - $43 shipped with all software and cable - and it works great! Check out cablestore.bmwmotion.com. It's this seller's website - lots of answers and help. The seller is very responsive and gets back to you quickly if you need help.
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03-07-2014, 05:40 PM | #20 | |
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03-07-2014, 06:27 PM | #21 |
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Worked for me. Strange enough. Didn't you follow the instructions for the non-compatibility issue?
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03-07-2014, 07:34 PM | #22 |
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I bought an older laptop with real serial port and cable with ADS interface. If EDIABAS have ADS interface support it should work. The problem with this bundle setup is it is not a full version so it does not have ADS support. Look in C:\EDIABAS folder hardware folder is missing. It should be simple to switch between OBD and EDIABAS by changing EDIABAS.INI from interface = ADS. I have it setup to use ADS/ODB.
As I recall, it said E36 support. That is probably true but have limited access via OBD. I'm not knocking the seller. He instantly offer me a refund. It's just an FYI for those thinking this have ADS support. |
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