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      07-10-2013, 08:04 PM   #1
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Rod Bearings and Motor Mounts Replaced.

At 39K miles, my blackstone report showed 43ppm for lead. Way to high so I decided to start thinking about a rod bearing replacement. I thought I just might do this myself but started to think a litter harder and decided to let someone who has done this before do it. I talk to Randy F but a 900 mile drive, while tempting would be a scheduling nightmare for both parties.

In the end I let my favorite local shop do this. I trust them. The have performed over 50 of these on E46's.... While this was being done, I figured I better have the motor mounts replaced since my right side mount was trashed.

When I arrived at the shop this afternoon, the oil pan was back on and they were getting ready to start the process of putting all the interference (steering rack, A-arms, cross member etc) back on. I figure they will finish tomorrow sometime. They also think my power steering pump may have a very slight weep. They are going to clean it up and I will monitor it. If it starts to weep, then I will have to replace that later on down the line.




The right side mount came off in two pieces.













Some of the old bearings.



A new bearing and ARP studs.

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      07-10-2013, 08:27 PM   #2
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Are the replacement bearings the Randy Forbes coated ones?

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...7#post25381257
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      07-10-2013, 09:00 PM   #3
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do you get a squeak when you turn at low speeds or are not moving at all? dont meant to derail your thread, just asking. i recently looked at the cost of a power steering pump, its a bit above 400 dollars, though at rockauto its a little over 200 dollars, fwiw. personally i know i have to replace my power steering line in the future =(
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      07-10-2013, 09:00 PM   #4
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Wow. The oil test didn't lie
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      07-10-2013, 11:17 PM   #5
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What made you choose ARP studs over OEM?

Thanks for the writeup. I've been very curious to see how worn the bearings were vs. the oil analysis. There seems to be a lot of terror about rod bearings recently, and the community appreciates the followup with pictures and real info.
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      07-10-2013, 11:46 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches View Post
What made you choose ARP studs over oem.
Good question pokeybritches.
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      07-11-2013, 12:04 AM   #7
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All this rod bearing talk has got me nervous, seeing that I'm just short of 90k miles.
Anybody know of a shop in SoCal they would trust to do this?
I don't think I would trust the guy in Arcadia.
He probably has a set of old bearings in the back to use as props.
I like to do my own work, but I have limits.
I seem to remember from High School auto shop using PlastiGauge to check and adjust the gap between the bearing and the crank. Or was that lawn-mower shop?
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      07-11-2013, 12:09 AM   #8
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Im guessing this car sees track time?
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      07-11-2013, 12:40 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
All this rod bearing talk has got me nervous, seeing that I'm just short of 90k miles.
Anybody know of a shop in SoCal they would trust to do this?
I don't think I would trust the guy in Arcadia.
He probably has a set of old bearings in the back to use as props.
I like to do my own work, but I have limits.
I seem to remember from High School auto shop using PlastiGauge to check and adjust the gap between the bearing and the crank. Or was that lawn-mower shop?
AutoTalent has the ability, and I had a good experience with them. However, be aware that some do consider that shop to be a black hole for cars.
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      07-11-2013, 01:07 AM   #10
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Hmmm. So AutoTalent may be a black hole, where cars go in but don't come out, or the guy in Arcadia, which is a "white hole", where cars bounce out without any work being done.
I'm in fairly easy range of EAS. Google says 30 minutes. They seem to have some forum cred.
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      07-11-2013, 05:33 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caddyshk View Post
Are the replacement bearings the Randy Forbes coated ones?

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...7#post25381257
I did not use the VAC coated bearings. After some research, I decided to use the Bimmerworld S54 Treated Rod Bearing Upgrade kit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dorifto88 View Post
do you get a squeak when you turn at low speeds or are not moving at all? dont meant to derail your thread, just asking. (
No noises at all from the steering system. I already had to replace the 'low pressure line' from the reservoir to the pump due to excessive material degardation. When was the last time you replaced your power steering fluid? Also, cheap ATF works better than high quality synthetic ATF. The high quality stuff has a tendency to cavitate... I shit you not....

Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches View Post
What made you choose ARP studs over OEM?

Thanks for the writeup. I've been very curious to see how worn the bearings were vs. the oil analysis. There seems to be a lot of terror about rod bearings recently, and the community appreciates the followup with pictures and real info.
The ARP studs come with the kit. Also, 90% of all engine builders use ARP bolts because they are just that much better. The shop owner were I am having this performed and I are good freinds. He said he will not do the work unless the rod bolts are replaced and will strongly advise using ARP's over OEM. You can see where cylinder no. 2 upper was just starting to get into the copper. From what I can find, once you get into this phase, it is a very steep slope until engine death. From what John (the shop owner) says, with the new bearings, I should not have to do this agian for at least six years or so. Maybe never.

Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
All this rod bearing talk has got me nervous, seeing that I'm just short of 90k miles.

Get your oil tested every oil change so you can monitor what the hell is going on inside your engine. History on the E46 and is what we are starting to see here is that the S54 has two major weekness's. Rod bearings and Vanos. EVERY engine has some kind of weakness.
You either do what is necessary to midigate the risks or find some excuse not to do it and accept the fallout later. I have no sympathy for someone in the latter and will help anyone in the former. I have about 25 track days on the car.
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      07-11-2013, 05:18 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
I don't think I would trust the guy in Arcadia.
John at European Motorwerks? Why not?
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      07-11-2013, 06:19 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
Get your oil tested every oil change so you can monitor what the hell is going on inside your engine.
For how many miles was the oil used before testing? (What I mean is that I think the ppm count goes up the longer you drive with the oil).
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      07-11-2013, 06:27 PM   #14
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The car was finished and ready for pickup today (three days) but I did not have the time to go get it. Tomorrow.

Total miles on the oil for the analysis sample was 5400 and three track days. I then changed the oil (hence the sample) to another weight. There will be about 2000 miles (guessing) and one track day on this next sample to attempt to compare the OEM recommended weight to what I went to. Now, with the bearings replaced some of that data will reset.

As stated above, I have 25 track days on the car with 39K total miles.
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      07-11-2013, 06:33 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post

No noises at all from the steering system. I already had to replace the 'low pressure line' from the reservoir to the pump due to excessive material degardation. When was the last time you replaced your power steering fluid? Also, cheap ATF works better than high quality synthetic ATF. The high quality stuff has a tendency to cavitate... I shit you not....

i will probably replace that line next year. i inspected it when i was looking under the car and i didnt see any leaks. and ya i flushed the fluid. i still have an audible squeak though. i used good ol castro atf fluid lol, was contemplating mobile one for a few bucks more but my wallet didnt permit it.
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      07-11-2013, 06:40 PM   #16
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How about your belts? I had to replace my AC belt but the main belt looked great.

I have had serpentine belts look good but had some tiny rock in the grooves that cause a squeek. Had to pull the belts off and pick the stones out... issue fixed.
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      07-11-2013, 06:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seank View Post
Wow. The oil test didn't lie
Yup I was thinking the same, it seems he got to it just in time!
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      07-11-2013, 08:13 PM   #18
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Did you upgrade the oil pump?
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      07-11-2013, 08:17 PM   #19
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No. I was told directly out of James Clay's mouth: 'No need too'
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      07-11-2013, 08:23 PM   #20
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So Randy uses the VAC bearings? What convinced you on the bearings you chose?
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      07-11-2013, 08:37 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
Rod bearings and Vanos. EVERY engine has some kind of weakness.
Only a poorly designed engine has weaknesses like those. I understand the S54 has won awards, but they don't give awards for longevity. 2JZ has crank main seal leakage issues, but usually from folks boosting the hell out of it. Otherwise, there are many of those floating around 100k+ miles without ever being opened (I have one of them). I had made almost 800 wheel on that stock motor, opened it up at 126k miles for the first time, the bearings looked brand new and were still within thickness tolerances. Go figure...

I can name a handful of "high performance" engines which don't have these type of "open up the motor to replace part" weaknesses.

If you have to replace your rod bearings at 40k miles (and you don't drive the piss out of it or have power adders), then the engine has a flaw (oiling I would suspect), or was assembled improperly at the factory.

4G63 7bolt engines have crankwalk issues, yet another flawed engine design, even though they make great power. But I will disagree with you that every engine has a weakness, especially in the context of being in stock form.
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      07-11-2013, 09:33 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shipkiller View Post
The car was finished and ready for pickup today (three days) but I did not have the time to go get it. Tomorrow.

Total miles on the oil for the analysis sample was 5400 and three track days. I then changed the oil (hence the sample) to another weight. There will be about 2000 miles (guessing) and one track day on this next sample to attempt to compare the OEM recommended weight to what I went to. Now, with the bearings replaced some of that data will reset.

As stated above, I have 25 track days on the car with 39K total miles.

Did the shop recommend any break in period? I've heard different things depending on who you talk to. Some recommend 1200 miles others say no need.

You're gonna love those new mounts!!
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