What's your "on the road again" routine?

[partlowr]

Originally Posted by dubsesd

since you have to change the oil at operating temperature, you cant change the oil "properly" until driving the car. after a whole summer of use the car sits and all the contaminants sit at the bottom. once you start your car everything thats at the base of the motor starts working its way through the motor. it just doesnt seem right to me. i guess either way works

I don't know about the rest of you but I start my car every week or two and let it idle for 10 minutes, it keeps it's juices fresh. I will also back it up down my drive way and rotte the steering wheel back and forth a few times, this helps with the tires, and all the lubed joints on the car. Anyone that just parks there car for 5 months without starting it or moving it at all is doing it more harm than good, this is a proven fact.

[Pheonix]

Originally Posted by partlowr

I don't know about the rest of you but I start my car every week or two and let it idle for 10 minutes, it keeps it's juices fresh. I will also back it up down my drive way and rotte the steering wheel back and forth a few times, this helps with the tires, and all the lubed joints on the car. Anyone that just parks there car for 5 months without starting it or moving it at all is doing it more harm than good, this is a proven fact.

Really? Please provide link(s) of the proven fact!
This is opposite to what I have heard/read

[partlowr]

Originally Posted by Pheonix

Really? Please provide link(s) of the proven fact!
This is opposite to what I have heard/read

http://www.buyclassiccars.com/storagetips.asp

Here's what it says.

"The best thing to do for a stored car is to visit it once a month and take it for a short drive. This keeps everything in good shape, preventing things from getting corroded and seals drying out. At the very least have some one start it up periodically. If you are going to cover it use a proper Cloth car cover, not a Plastic one. If you find the concrete floor in your storage unit gets damp or 'sweats' use cat litter, or lay plastic beneath the car to prevent the condensation from reaching your floor pans."

There you go, let me know if you need anymore, I found about 20 sites that all say the same thing. The simple fact that my father owns a collection of 24 classic(mostly classic) Corvettes, I think I know a thing or two about long term vehicle storage.

[Huz-Z]

But didn't we establish on an earlier thread here that you shouldn't let a Z4 sit and idle to warm it up? And that the best thing to do was start the engine, pull on your seat belt, and drive off at moderate throttle, avoiding high revs until the engine has warmed up?

[zubydafa]

i just daily drove it since it was a semi mild winter. took it out in the snow when there was a mild covering out to toss it about.

washed it every couple weeks and applied some canauba. that's about it fellas. it's not a fussy car...

if there's no snow on the ground it doesn't need to be garaged. and i have some expensive piping under there now...i just get under the car every now and then and wipe it down so the salt doesn't corrode anything - not that it would after 1 winter anyways.

[partlowr]

Originally Posted by Huz-Z

But didn't we establish on an earlier thread here that you shouldn't let a Z4 sit and idle to warm it up? And that the best thing to do was start the engine, pull on your seat belt, and drive off at moderate throttle, avoiding high revs until the engine has warmed up?

I've never heard that, I always thought that oil temps need to rise as well oil pressure to get lifters to optimum operating temp/pressure. You are correct about the not reving part but I always try to let my car idle for a minute before pulling off

[ruscoupe]

Originally Posted by dubsesd

dont any of you change the oil BEFORE storage? that just makes more sense than changing it in the spring...

That's the rule of thumb I've always seen used with motorcycles, tractors and lawn equipment (which all apply to me). You always want to have fresh oil in them before they sit for long periods of time. I don't know why the approach would be any different with a car. (which doesn't apply to me since we can drive year round in Tx).

rus

[ruscoupe]

Starting the car and letting it run for 10 minutes isn't ideal, but if it's all that can be done it might be better than nothing. Still think if that's the case I'd cut it back to no more than 5 minutes though. As the book referenced says, ideally you want to drive the car. And IMO, that would be for a few miles. That way fluids like brake and tranny fluid are going to actually flow.

I haven't looked this up in the manual on the coupe, but I know the recommendation in the manual for the E46 (both the M3 and 330) recommended a very short idle at start-up and then to drive the car at moderate speed until temp gauge was at normal operating temperature. Right or wrong, I know there's a lot of people out there that would opinion that letting it idle for 10 minutes isn't doing the engine any favors.

The reason you want to use a cloth or comparable cover is so moisture can escape, but that's pretty much a capability of any worthy car cover these days, even most of the cheaper ones.. I'm not sure I've ever heard of anyone wrapping their car in plastic.

Another benefit for driving the car a little, or at least as you say "moving" the car a bit, is to minimize flat spotting (tires).

Rus

[Huz-Z]

Originally Posted by partlowr

I've never heard that, I always thought that oil temps need to rise as well oil pressure to get lifters to optimum operating temp/pressure. You are correct about the not reving part but I always try to let my car idle for a minute before pulling off

I'm sure a minute is no problem, but 10 - 15 minutes or more may not be good. Guys - any thoughts?

[zubydafa]

Originally Posted by Huz-Z

I'm sure a minute is no problem, but 10 - 15 minutes or more may not be good. Guys - any thoughts?

yea i have a thought. nothing will happen...our s54's were made for a thrashing. idling for some odd minutes in the cold isn't going to do a damn thing.

[Ovaltine]

Originally Posted by partlowr

I think I know a thing or two about [insert highly-debated topic here]...

Famous last words

[gcochard]

I would let the engine warm up for 15-20 minutes if I started it and couldn't drive anywhere, at least the acid/water in the engine oil will burn off.

The reason they say "don't let it idle" is because the driveline won't warm up when you do that. If you aren't going to be driving it, why care about warming the driveline?

[Huz-Z]

Originally Posted by zubydafa

yea i have a thought. nothing will happen...our s54's were made for a thrashing. idling for some odd minutes in the cold isn't going to do a damn thing.

Only I have an N52 under the hood. But yeah, it's probably not a big deal.

[BMW Maniac]

Originally Posted by partlowr

I don't know about the rest of you but I start my car every week or two and let it idle for 10 minutes, it keeps it's juices fresh. I will also back it up down my drive way and rotte the steering wheel back and forth a few times, this helps with the tires, and all the lubed joints on the car. Anyone that just parks there car for 5 months without starting it or moving it at all is doing it more harm than good, this is a proven fact.

Proven on the internet?

My 97 M3 and 91 325i will have both sat for 6 months in my garge when I get back home in June.
-Both have been detailed prior to storage.
-Both have fuel stabilizer.
-I pulled both batteries from the car and will take both to Autozone to get a free recharge and test. If they both fail, I'll replace them.
-The 325i is sitting on bottlecaps, and old tires. New wheels/tires will go back on, I'll change the oil, coolant, diff/trans fluids, and be on my way.
-The M3 is getting new tires anyways. I will do the same fluids.

I'll report back any issues. I'm curious as to which "lubed joints" I should worry about? All lubed joints that I know of are self contained within rubber, so unless the rubber disintegrated during hibernation, all the lubed joints should still be lubed. There might be some slight surface rust on the brakes, that will be gone in 2 seconds after applying brakes.

Does anyone think I should warm up the car oil/lubricants prior to changing them out the first time or do everything prior?