Car died at stoplight today

[StickMon]

I've been looking for an iso of the factory DIS CD to see if it has any firmware on it, but not having any luck.
Thought I hit it with the attached links, but it's a multi-part zip and I can't open it with WinRAR or WinZip. I think there may be a part missing or broke.

[beta]

I'm in the process of finding out what the last version of the Euro DME is. Since I have euro headers and cats, my setup should be 100% the euro setup.

Going to try flashing that before getting my Evolve-R tune done.

If anyone has a 2008 Euro Roadster, or has a euro roadster and has done a firmware update. Can you please post what version your DME is?

[StickMon]

I've been reading this thread on Euro flashing US M3's.
Pretty interesting read.

[beta]

Good stuff. Still having trouble finding out the latest versions of the software, both US and Euro. If anyone has a good resource or someone they can ask that'd be great. I also posted the question on the uk forum.

Unfortunately you can't just go by highest numerical value (sometimes the bigger numbers are actually worse) so you really have to know which version to flash on there.

[Caddyshk]

This has me thinking...

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showpost...7&postcount=10

I too have experienced this a few times at idle - never stalled.

[StickMon]

Originally Posted by beta

Unfortunately you can't just go by highest numerical value (sometimes the bigger numbers are actually worse) so you really have to know which version to flash on there.

What I found on RealOEM would attest to that.

Back on the original topic:
My Wife complained last week that her Suburban was idling slow and died on her while backing out of a parking space. Tore the intake apart and found that the throttle plate had accumulated a ridge of carbon around the edges and there was a corresponding ridge of carbon around the inside of the throttle body. At idle position, it was almost 100% blocked by carbon.
Pulled the throttle body off and spent an hour cleaning it with CRC spray and a toothbrush. Runs like new now.

I wonder if our cars are prone to carbon buildup in the throttle body. I'll have to pop the air box off and have a look.

[beta]

Originally Posted by Caddyshk

This has me thinking...

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showpost...7&postcount=10

I too have experienced this a few times at idle - never stalled.

I don't think that's the issue we're seeing, as all his lights were going out not just the idle thing that most of us have experienced.

Originally Posted by StickMon

What I found on RealOEM would attest to that.

I wasn't able to find the version numbers on realOEM, can you link?

Originally Posted by StickMon

Back on the original topic:
My Wife complained last week that her Suburban was idling slow and died on her while backing out of a parking space. Tore the intake apart and found that the throttle plate had accumulated a ridge of carbon around the edges and there was a corresponding ridge of carbon around the inside of the throttle body. At idle position, it was almost 100% blocked by carbon.
Pulled the throttle body off and spent an hour cleaning it with CRC spray and a toothbrush. Runs like new now.

I wonder if our cars are prone to carbon buildup in the throttle body. I'll have to pop the air box off and have a look.

That's a good idea. Please update if you find anything. The other culprit could be the throttle position sensor. There's 3 parts to it.

1. Accelerator pedal (if it's bad you need to replace the whole pedal).

2. At the very front of the engine, you can actually see it and it's a 2 minute cheap replacement.

3. Under the intake manifold. Pain to replace and it's a $400 part.

[StickMon]

I gleaned the version numbers from the RealOEM DME part numbers listed here.

[beta]

Oh gotcha. Those are the hardware part numbers, not software. Compare hardware vs software. The bmwfans.info page calls it "Basic Control DME / MSS70" for hardware and "Control Unit Programmed DME / MSS70" for software.

[StickMon]

I had read in another thread that the hardware and software part numbers differed by one number, but it looks more complicated than that.

[beta]

Tried tonight to flash Euro software and was not able to. Winkfp kept giving errors, configuring this software is complicated. My buddy is going to do some more research and we'll try again soon.

[SmartBastard]

2 weeks ago I had to take a different gas than what I usually take and the car was driven a lot in the city (lots of red lights). The car died on MANY times! Was worried that I could be the clutch but later it was explained to me that a damage clutch has the opposite effect. After I fully tanked the car with the usual gas I was working fine, until yday when it died once.

I'll let my mechanic check the intake when he's back from holidays.

[StickMon]

The most common failure mode for the clutch is it runs out of surface and slips, but it can fail in the opposite mode. I'm real easy on the clutch. At 150k miles the clutch in my Mk1 MR2 started sticking to the flywheel. Still had lots of surface, but the dust from what had worn turned into a paste.
I doubt that's your problem, because you would definitely know it. It would be hard to get in and out of gear, and would buck like a stallion at stops.

[j03chu]

happened to my car ONCE at a random traffic light probably 18 months ago.

I have Afe hot air intake + rpi scoop...

Hasn't happened again since then.. However, when i first installed the intake + scoopt my engine would stutter once in a while at stops, I'm assuming the DME has learned the increased air?

[Mirko]

On hot days, usually 35+ degrees celcius this would happen once in a while. Did my valve adjustment and the past few days its been 35+, no issue. Havent stalled or sputtered at lights. Havent done anything else to the car. Same place for fuel same roads and distance.

How long ago were your adjustments? Had a few valves that were out in left field but most normal. Could be unrelated but its the only changed variable.