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      03-31-2016, 06:03 PM   #1
SaltyNC
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DKF Hanger to the Rescue

I got a great deal on a Stromung exhaust from a forum member, and I have loved the pops and gurgles and the sound, but I was getting some loud drone under initial heavy load just below 3K RPM, and then when in 5th and 6th under light load, I would get a light drone. Having read that sometimes loosening the stock nuts/bolts helped with drone, I tried to loosen the OEM hanger bolts and was shocked how tightly they had been torqued down. I couldn't budge them with a wrench (spanner), and it took some real torque with a longer ratchet to break them free. I also noticed the bolt on the stock hanger was twisted to one side and was twisting the rubber of the OEM mount.

I had previously bought some DKF hangers from another forum member, and since the stock hangers were being stressed, I decided to try to tackle it without a lift. I didn't even jack up the car. It's tight, but do-able. I installed the DKF hangers with the heavier-duty isolators and was sure not to over-tighten any of the nuts. After a bit of swearing, it was done.

It was starting to rain, so I didn't go far, but initial impressions are a HUGE improvement. Virtually all drone has been removed. Woohoo!!

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      03-31-2016, 06:34 PM   #2
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Cool! Thanks for sharing.
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      03-31-2016, 06:44 PM   #3
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I was wondering how stromung would hold up with some DKF hangars. I think there are a couple like set ups out there, but that gives me hope for a no drone and good sounding solution!
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      04-01-2016, 08:06 AM   #4
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I don't think it made any substantial change in my setup regarding drone. I might've over tightened the bolt though. I found the drone was usually the worst on really cold days or when it was raining outside. Haven't driven car in either conditions in a long time now.
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      04-01-2016, 06:00 PM   #5
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Granted I have only had the /M for 6000 miles, but I find almost zero drone/rasp on the Stromung setup which I bought new. I previously ran the RPI noise cannons and that was headache inducing in the 2200-4000 rpm range.
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      04-02-2016, 07:43 AM   #6
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FWIW, I added a rubber isolator between the OE hanger and chassis and It helped somewhat.
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      04-02-2016, 08:04 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arsonism View Post
I was wondering how stromung would hold up with some DKF hangars. I think there are a couple like set ups out there, but that gives me hope for a no drone and good sounding solution!
The original vibration isolators were prone to tearing, especially if over-tightened, but the new beefier isolators from Grainger work well. Grainer also sells the isolating washers. They are actually sealing washers with silicon on the back.

I think the main issue with my OEM hanger installation was that in an attempt to get the tips aligned, the guy that installed mine put the OEM hangers in a bound/twisted position, and everything was torqued down very tight, and that was allowing some of the vibration to transfer to the body. Well, that's the theory, anyway.

Salty
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      04-02-2016, 08:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mirko View Post
I don't think it made any substantial change in my setup regarding drone. I might've over tightened the bolt though. I found the drone was usually the worst on really cold days or when it was raining outside. Haven't driven car in either conditions in a long time now.
Mirko, rainy/foggy weather made it worse on my car, as well. I wonder if it is an atmospheric pressure thing.

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      04-02-2016, 10:42 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC View Post
The original vibration isolators were prone to tearing, especially if over-tightened, but the new beefier isolators from Grainger work well. Grainer also sells the isolating washers. They are actually sealing washers with silicon on the back.

I think the main issue with my OEM hanger installation was that in an attempt to get the tips aligned, the guy that installed mine put the OEM hangers in a bound/twisted position, and everything was torqued down very tight, and that was allowing some of the vibration to transfer to the body. Well, that's the theory, anyway.

Salty
Yeah, it sounds like the bigger isolators on the DKF are the ticket.
I sold my DKFs before I had a chance to try the better isolators.
I also sold my RPI, so drone was no longer a problem

DKF are definitely nice for adjustment because you can get the isolator in a near no load position.

For OE I find it easiest to fasten the hanger first then adjust the tips.
With the donut clamp snug, I use a floor Jack to raise the tips to the right height and use a rubber hammer to whack the donut clamp side to side for adjustment.
Then finish tightening the donut clamp.
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      04-02-2016, 01:56 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r
Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC View Post
The original vibration isolators were prone to tearing, especially if over-tightened, but the new beefier isolators from Grainger work well. Grainer also sells the isolating washers. They are actually sealing washers with silicon on the back.

I think the main issue with my OEM hanger installation was that in an attempt to get the tips aligned, the guy that installed mine put the OEM hangers in a bound/twisted position, and everything was torqued down very tight, and that was allowing some of the vibration to transfer to the body. Well, that's the theory, anyway.

Salty
Yeah, it sounds like the bigger isolators on the DKF are the ticket.
I sold my DKFs before I had a chance to try the better isolators.
I also sold my RPI, so drone was no longer a problem

DKF are definitely nice for adjustment because you can get the isolator in a near no load position.

For OE I find it easiest to fasten the hanger first then adjust the tips.
With the donut clamp snug, I use a floor Jack to raise the tips to the right height and use a rubber hammer to whack the donut clamp side to side for adjustment.
Then finish tightening the donut clamp.
I do the same. It's the easiest method I found for this.
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      04-02-2016, 09:06 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnegan View Post
I do the same. It's the easiest method I found for this.
For the first muffler, I took it completely off to add the DKF hanger. The second one, I removed the bolts from the flange clamp on the x-pipe, then dropped the OEM hanger that the DKF replaces. That allowed the muffler to angle down enough to mount the new DKF hanger. I then realized I needed to cut off the welded nut on the Stromung, so I whipped out an angle grinder with a cutting wheel and did that under the car. I was doing all of this in my garage without a lift and without the car even being on jacks or ramps. Nothing blew up.

Salty
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