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      11-10-2013, 04:08 PM   #1101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
does the whole differential have to be removed to service this?
Not per se, but if you already have it on the lift and most of the axles removed, it might save you some troubles.

In the TIS manual they do it in the subframe:
http://bmw.workshop-manuals.com/Z_Se...ex.php?id=1070
But be alerted: the procedure that TIS describes in this particular example is a generic writeup (they do that a lot so sometimes the procedure seems a lot simpler on forehand than that it turnes out to be ).

For instance: the z4m has an extra metal dust shield between the drive flange and the diff. You can see it on your picture and it is also listed in the ETK. No such thing in TIS . Be sure not to bend/damage stuff like that or you'll hear grinding noises when driving.

Also these drive flanges can sit pretty tightly in the diff. There's a lock ring in a groove keeping it in place and sometimes you really need a (large) puller to get it off.
You get a new lock ring with the shaft seal if I'm correct.
(also afaik the surface of those drive flanges should be dry, and not covered with grease as yours are (that's why I mentioned a possible problem with the end caps of your driveshafts/cv joints))

So it's not necessary to get it out of the subframe, but with the axles loose it's only 4 bolts I think (and working over your head can be a pain if it takes long).
If you can get the drive flanges easily off the diff (so if they easliy pop out of the lock ring), then do it in the subframe.

Be sure to use a transmission jack for the diff if you decide to remove it: it is heavy!
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      11-10-2013, 09:42 PM   #1102
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one thing I've noticed is that the OEM muffler/xpipe section of the exhaust is REALLY heavy
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      11-11-2013, 11:37 PM   #1103
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Anyone have the part number for the seal thats leaking here? Also, how involved is the replacement? Looks like I just undo the big bolt? Specific torque specs? Do es anything need to be pressed in?

Is it the "shaft seal"? 33121213949
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      11-12-2013, 12:22 PM   #1104
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Hmm the previous link I posted was for the output flanges; this is the input flange I realise now... (I already had problems placing that nut...)
For the input flange you have to mark up the nut with a centerpunch or a marker. Afterwards you tighten the nut to the same postition (count the turns obviously)
There is no torque setting, as this probably effects the gear alignment from the pinion/spurgear setup.
If you've already released the nut....you're screwed (well, you have to set the backlash again for the gears, and then you'll need some inside information regarding the backlash data on the gears themselves).

This is the correct TIS link:
http://bmw.workshop-manuals.com/Z_Se...ex.php?id=1063
It's 5 pages long so you have to click next page a few times.
You have the 210 diff with lock (only important for the special bmw tools).
You have to get the flange off with a puller after you've removed the nut (that can be fun )

Shaft seal is indeed 33121213949
Lube the seal a bit prior to installation.


With the nut sits a securing/retaining plate 33121205138 accoring to TIS/realoem
You'd probably need that too.
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      11-12-2013, 08:36 PM   #1105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK View Post
Hmm the previous link I posted was for the output flanges; this is the input flange I realise now... (I already had problems placing that nut...)
For the input flange you have to mark up the nut with a centerpunch or a marker. Afterwards you tighten the nut to the same postition (count the turns obviously)
There is no torque setting, as this probably effects the gear alignment from the pinion/spurgear setup.
If you've already released the nut....you're screwed (well, you have to set the backlash again for the gears, and then you'll need some inside information regarding the backlash data on the gears themselves).

This is the correct TIS link:
http://bmw.workshop-manuals.com/Z_Se...ex.php?id=1063
It's 5 pages long so you have to click next page a few times.
You have the 210 diff with lock (only important for the special bmw tools).
You have to get the flange off with a puller after you've removed the nut (that can be fun )

Shaft seal is indeed 33121213949
Lube the seal a bit prior to installation.


With the nut sits a securing/retaining plate 33121205138 accoring to TIS/realoem
You'd probably need that too.
Thanks for the info again. I got quoted $175 wholesale for the main puller tool from BMW dealer today. Not going to tackle this job right now, just going to top off the gear oil and clean it up for now. It looks like a very slow leak. I'll do some more research about the tools needed for the job. Might be easier to have a BMW specialty shop tackle this if they already have the tools.

I was able to reach into the gas tank through the access hole on the side, and carefully remove the fuel pump. It felt like I was taking a baby out of its mother, plus a bunch of gasoline in my face and hands. The fuel pump sleeve kit I bought sits it nicely in the stock basket minus a minor tweak. There isn't room to clamp the top of the sleeve onto the new fuel pump because of the small diameter of the oem basket. On the plus side, there are 3 protrusions that click into the groove designed for the clamp. Attaching the new fuel sock on the bottom ensures that the pump doesn't have room to jump up and out. The wiring was easy. The 3" fuel line provided with the kit is too short, so I went and got a 12" fuel line from the local store. Seating the fuel pump housing back into its position INSIDE the fuel tank took about 25 minutes of figuring out the position, and then a lot of work to line it up with the right mounting tabs for it to click back in.

Today I bought a new fuel filter/regulator from the dealer, because when I tilted the old one sideways, a bunch of dark and dirty fuel came out. I'm sure it was hurting performance or drivability. 75k miles on the car.

I couldn't figure out how to disconnect the fuel line that attaches to the outside of the fuel filter housing. Its some sort of squeeze and twist setup. The workshop manual says to twist it towards the middle. I can't figure out the motion, if someone could help out that would be great. The dealer didn't have a new fuel line connector for me to buy..
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      11-13-2013, 11:02 AM   #1106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
Thanks for the info again. I got quoted $175 wholesale for the main puller tool from BMW dealer today. Not going to tackle this job right now, just going to top off the gear oil and clean it up for now. It looks like a very slow leak. I'll do some more research about the tools needed for the job.
Are you sure? You could set the flange with 2 bolts and a spanner between that (set the spanner against the subframe). That way you can unbolt the nut.
And then if you have a generic drive hub puller it looks like you could mount that on the flange (and then youre set )
Changing that seal is something you have to do eventually. Or let a garage do it. Although I would be less comfortable letting a dealer do something like this. (I don't hold the technical skills of the average mechanic working at a dealership that high...(maybe it's different in the US). People working at more performance orientated shops are more skilled I think.


Still I maybe would take the diff out, and do it all on a bench in a big vice or so. (I've taken my diff out multiple times so maybe I'm more used to that knowing what to expect)

And I would take of the back lid and measure the backlash (you'll need a micrometer dial and a magnetic mount. These are cheap tools). You're running a pretty powerful setup and checking the backlash is the method to get an indication if your gears don't show wear. So basically do a nice diff overhaul (maybe do the drive (output) flange seals too, they are known to wear too). The leaking seal is an indication that it is being used .
Getting the car on the ramp, dismanteling the exhaust and all the axles is half the work already done.
I don't know if youre in a hurry or working against a deadline. (ordering parts sometimes takes a lot of time)
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      11-13-2013, 11:22 PM   #1107
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fuel pump install done, car pulls strong to redline. Either my boost gauge connector is leaking, or my belt is slipping after 6000rpm. Not going past 7-8psi. Doesn't feel like it, but it seems like after 6000rpm the pressure doesn't climb on the gauge, but then again early boost staying level will still feel strong on the butt dyno as you go from 6k to 8krpm

I'm really hoping its NOT belt slip, and that its a gauge issue. There is a small crack in the rubber on the connector, so I'll get a new one and re-test. I have a gut feeling I don't have enough tension from the hydraulic tensioner, and will either have to move to a mechanical tensioner or a big crank pulley

Still, the car definitely feels strong. Stronger than its ever been. Wants to rip through the tires in 2nd gear from 5000rpm to redline. The diff is pulling the car left and right with the traction control going crazy. I didn't realize that near the top of 4th gear is a pretty damn high speed
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      11-14-2013, 02:47 AM   #1108
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
fuel pump install done, car pulls strong to redline. Either my boost gauge connector is leaking, or my belt is slipping after 6000rpm. Not going past 7-8psi. Doesn't feel like it, but it seems like after 6000rpm the pressure doesn't climb on the gauge, but then again early boost staying level will still feel strong on the butt dyno as you go from 6k to 8krpm

I'm really hoping its NOT belt slip, and that its a gauge issue. There is a small crack in the rubber on the connector, so I'll get a new one and re-test. I have a gut feeling I don't have enough tension from the hydraulic tensioner, and will either have to move to a mechanical tensioner or a big crank pulley

Still, the car definitely feels strong. Stronger than its ever been. Wants to rip through the tires in 2nd gear from 5000rpm to redline. The diff is pulling the car left and right with the traction control going crazy. I didn't realize that near the top of 4th gear is a pretty damn high speed
tom has this car been tuned yet??

great news on the FP install :-) well done for getting in and having ago yourself!!!
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      11-14-2013, 03:55 AM   #1109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
fuel pump install done, car pulls strong to redline. Either my boost gauge connector is leaking, or my belt is slipping after 6000rpm. Not going past 7-8psi.
Did you ever considered the vac mls 0.7 if boost goes 11psi or above at 8000rpm?

If i ever decide to go with a custom tune, i would jump right away to max 12psi with vac mls 0.7 and arp head studs.
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      11-14-2013, 09:11 AM   #1110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
fuel pump install done, car pulls strong to redline. Either my boost gauge connector is leaking, or my belt is slipping after 6000rpm. Not going past 7-8psi. Doesn't feel like it, but it seems like after 6000rpm the pressure doesn't climb on the gauge, but then again early boost staying level will still feel strong on the butt dyno as you go from 6k to 8krpm

I'm really hoping its NOT belt slip, and that its a gauge issue. There is a small crack in the rubber on the connector, so I'll get a new one and re-test. I have a gut feeling I don't have enough tension from the hydraulic tensioner, and will either have to move to a mechanical tensioner or a big crank pulley

Still, the car definitely feels strong. Stronger than its ever been. Wants to rip through the tires in 2nd gear from 5000rpm to redline. The diff is pulling the car left and right with the traction control going crazy. I didn't realize that near the top of 4th gear is a pretty damn high speed
tom has this car been tuned yet??

great news on the FP install :-) well done for getting in and having ago yourself!!!
Once i get the proper boost going, I will get it tuned. Power delivery and light throttle reponse feels much smoother with the new fuel filter and stronger fuel pump
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      11-14-2013, 09:15 AM   #1111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tiago
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
fuel pump install done, car pulls strong to redline. Either my boost gauge connector is leaking, or my belt is slipping after 6000rpm. Not going past 7-8psi.
Did you ever considered the vac mls 0.7 if boost goes 11psi or above at 8000rpm?

If i ever decide to go with a custom tune, i would jump right away to max 12psi with vac mls 0.7 and arp head studs.
Why is cac mls .7?

By the way the car started up on the third crank. First crank nothing. Second crank is sputtered. Third crank of the key, it fired right up into a steady idle

My next step is finding out about a mechanical belt tensioner. Its gotta be an old bmw piece. Even though the new pulley is coated for anti-slip, i dont feel like the hydraulic tensioner is putting enough tension on the pulley at high rpm. There is a 5% chance that i have a small leak in my boost gauge
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      11-14-2013, 09:38 AM   #1112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
Why is cac mls .7?

By the way the car started up on the third crank. First crank nothing. Second crank is sputtered. Third crank of the key, it fired right up into a steady idle

My next step is finding out about a mechanical belt tensioner. Its gotta be an old bmw piece. Even though the new pulley is coated for anti-slip, i dont feel like the hydraulic tensioner is putting enough tension on the pulley at high rpm. There is a 5% chance that i have a small leak in my boost gauge
Nothing like an 8-rib pulley system ...

all this slip and talk about slip is just shitty design and half assed research ...
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      11-14-2013, 10:22 AM   #1113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
My next step is finding out about a mechanical belt tensioner. Its gotta be an old bmw piece.
BMW has used mechanical belt tensioners on the m54 (spring loaded)
But they have all been replaced with the hydraulic ones from what I understand on realoem/etk (the same product# as in the s54)
So BMW advice for all bmw's is to install the hydraulic ones (the mechanical version is not sold anymore formally althought stil available online)
So maybe the m54 mechanical version fits on the s54: vice versa it seems to fit so there is a chance (I still have the mechanical one so no hands on experience there).
Be sure that if you mount a mechanical one that all the screw lugs mount to the oil housing etc, and there are no gaps (fill gaps with spacers/rings or so), like discussed in this alpinaforum thread:
http://thealpinaregister.com/forums/...er=asc&start=0

product# mechanical tensioner: 11281427252

I don't know if you get better tension in high revs with the mechanical one. All S sixes always had hydraulic ones afaik. If your belt fails, it can cause a lot of damage as you can read in the alpina thread.
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Last edited by GuidoK; 11-14-2013 at 10:29 AM..
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      11-14-2013, 10:56 AM   #1114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tikamak View Post
Nothing like an 8-rib pulley system ...

all this slip and talk about slip is just shitty design and half assed research ...
Would love to go 8 rib if there was a kit available
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      11-14-2013, 10:57 AM   #1115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuidoK View Post
BMW has used mechanical belt tensioners on the m54 (spring loaded)
But they have all been replaced with the hydraulic ones from what I understand on realoem/etk (the same product# as in the s54)
So BMW advice for all bmw's is to install the hydraulic ones (the mechanical version is not sold anymore formally althought stil available online)
So maybe the m54 mechanical version fits on the s54: vice versa it seems to fit so there is a chance (I still have the mechanical one so no hands on experience there).
Be sure that if you mount a mechanical one that all the screw lugs mount to the oil housing etc, and there are no gaps (fill gaps with spacers/rings or so), like discussed in this alpinaforum thread:
http://thealpinaregister.com/forums/...er=asc&start=0

product# mechanical tensioner: 11281427252

I don't know if you get better tension in high revs with the mechanical one. All S sixes always had hydraulic ones afaik. If your belt fails, it can cause a lot of damage as you can read in the alpina thread.
That scares me, I've had enough troubles with my oil filter breaking...

I think a bigger crank pulley and bigger supercharger pulley is gonna be my next mod, once finances allow. Right now I'm gonna enjoy the huge bump in power I already have, and pray that I can find the missing boost somewhere.
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      11-14-2013, 11:15 AM   #1116
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Quote:
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That scares me, I've had enough troubles with my oil filter breaking...
The problem those alpina guys had was mainly due to that that bolt holding the mechanical tensioner down broke, so that would be solvable. Could be a specific alpina problem as an alpina engine is always a parts bin as they build their own engines from different bmw parts.

But I think that larger pulleys is a more certain route to solving the problem. I don't know if a mechanical tensioner has more tension and if that would solve anything. You can't adjust the tension on the mechanical tensioner. Also the mechanical tensioner might have different harmonics so that it could just as well perform worse on the high revs even if tension was heavier. The s engines always had the hydraulic ones.

The crack pulley on the s54 is already a seperated pulley from the dampener, so fabrication is not that complicated (a lot of engines have those 2 intergrated into 1 part which would complicate things).
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Last edited by GuidoK; 11-14-2013 at 11:21 AM..
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      11-14-2013, 12:07 PM   #1117
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Ess wants $500 for the crank pulley
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      11-14-2013, 12:11 PM   #1118
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8psi peak. Didnt watch it climb to detect slip
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      11-14-2013, 01:56 PM   #1119
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Quote:
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Would love to go 8 rib if there was a kit available
Evolve have a kit call them up and ask for salman, he can probably hook you up with a rotrex c38-92 and pulleys and a tune and a bracket of course, although i think our intercooler and oil coiler injector cant hold high boost from the rotrex but still better than a v3si at this level of boost.
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      11-14-2013, 02:06 PM   #1120
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Not interested in changing the supercharger unit, and already asked Evolve and they don't have a big crank pulley. Jaws has one, but they want to sell their tune to go with it
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      11-16-2013, 07:11 PM   #1121
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yeah, this 2.87" pulley is definitely too small. It slips above 6000rpm, even with the special coating. I'm enjoying the big boost in midrange though, for now... At least I'm 100% sure ESS's pulleys are 1/8" milled down at the supercharger end

I don't recommend going smaller than 3.125" like ESS uses, along with a bigger crank pulley. Unless someone can add another idler pulley near the supercharger to wrap the belt around it more, or prove that a mechanical tensioner will reliably allow you to increase the tension on the belt
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      11-16-2013, 09:53 PM   #1122
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There's a guy who makes custom crank pulleys for $600, but if we can get a group of 6 together, the price will be lower. I'd opt for a larger than the 135mm pulley that ESS offers, and aim for 11psi or so, on the bigger 3.25 or 3.15 supercharger pulley
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