![]() |
![]()
|
|
![]() ![]() SUPPORT ZPOST BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER, THANKS! |
Post Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
09-19-2010, 02:01 PM | #1 |
///M-fanatic
![]() 193
Rep 3,885
Posts |
UUC ClutchStop
I bought one of these recently from UUC, but am confused at the provided washer and nut. Isn't it just supposed to thread into the existing clutch stop hole?
Also, when I tried to thread it all the way in, the clutch still couldn't clear the starter mark (couldn't start the car). Which probably means it also can't disengage the clutch properly. Has anyone had to file these down to work properly? |
09-19-2010, 02:18 PM | #2 |
Lieutenant General
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 2432
Rep 11,667
Posts |
You have to cut a piece off.
IIRC almost half of the thread. The nut is so that you can adjust the height then lock it in place.
__________________
'21 M2C Hockenheim Silver
'18 718 Cayman S Lava Orange (sold) '13 E92 M3 Santorini Blue (sold) '07 Z4 M Coupe Alpine White (sold) |
Appreciate
0
|
09-19-2010, 03:12 PM | #3 |
///M-fanatic
![]() 193
Rep 3,885
Posts |
Ohhh okay, so I do have to cut the threading.
![]() ![]() Or is it just cuz our clutch stop's thread hole is shallower than other cars? In other words, our holes are smaller ![]() |
Appreciate
0
|
09-19-2010, 06:35 PM | #4 | |
Lieutenant General
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 2432
Rep 11,667
Posts |
UUC doesn't list the E85/86 as fitting because of this.
It's worth the minor agro though. The UUC is much more solid than the others. Quote:
__________________
'21 M2C Hockenheim Silver
'18 718 Cayman S Lava Orange (sold) '13 E92 M3 Santorini Blue (sold) '07 Z4 M Coupe Alpine White (sold) |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-19-2010, 07:15 PM | #5 |
Engineer
![]() 216
Rep 2,122
Posts
Drives: M235I 2015, 335i 2011
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: TAMPA FL
|
You can move that clutch switch it's very easy, I made my own clutch stop from urethane resin I can post some pictures of how to move the switch, you don't need to cut the clutch stop, I use almost a 3/4" Tall on mine.
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-19-2010, 07:25 PM | #6 |
Lieutenant General
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 2432
Rep 11,667
Posts |
^ that would be great.
I was going to look into adjusting the switch. ...you still have to cut the UUC stop though, it's higher than the clutch engagement point.
__________________
'21 M2C Hockenheim Silver
'18 718 Cayman S Lava Orange (sold) '13 E92 M3 Santorini Blue (sold) '07 Z4 M Coupe Alpine White (sold) |
Appreciate
0
|
09-19-2010, 07:41 PM | #7 |
Engineer
![]() 216
Rep 2,122
Posts
Drives: M235I 2015, 335i 2011
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: TAMPA FL
|
Mine is 3/4" plus the stud, I will mesure and let you know as well.
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-19-2010, 08:13 PM | #8 | |
Major
![]() ![]() 55
Rep 1,224
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
If you can't take the time to teach a kid something good, someone will take the time to teach them something bad.
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-19-2010, 08:20 PM | #9 |
Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 42
Rep 632
Posts |
FWIW, In my former M3, I bought a $2 stainless bolt, washer, and nut, got a customized length and fitted an adhesive felt pad (like you put on the bottom of furniture legs on hard wood floors) on the top of it do deaden the impact. Works great, even though the head of it is possibly smaller than the aftermarket ones I don't see how the pedal arm could slip around it, and about 1/10th the cost of an aftermarket rubber covered bolt that you have to cut to get to fit right. FWIW...
__________________
![]() |=.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-.=| Silbergrau A08 / Sepang Brown LSD6 / Carbon Leather 4MY (1 of 3, this combo) RAC RG63 | Conti EC-DW | GC/Koni-Dinan | Rogue RSM | Arqray | Autosolutions | BMW brace | Pinnacle tint |
Appreciate
0
|
09-20-2010, 12:16 AM | #10 |
///M-fanatic
![]() 193
Rep 3,885
Posts |
Hmm...thinking about selling my clutch stop. Too lazy to go through the hassle of cutting the threading. Anyone interested in buying? I'll sell for like $25 shipped.
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-20-2010, 01:12 PM | #12 |
///M-fanatic
![]() 193
Rep 3,885
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-20-2010, 03:26 PM | #13 | |
Major
![]() ![]() 55
Rep 1,224
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
If you can't take the time to teach a kid something good, someone will take the time to teach them something bad.
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-20-2010, 04:36 PM | #14 |
Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 42
Rep 632
Posts |
Your cut in a situation like this can be a little off and it will work. First of all, the cut end won't be visible and second, with a small file, typically you can dress up the first threads so that it will thread right in with no problems. Shouldn't have to be dead on to be ok.
__________________
![]() |=.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-.=| Silbergrau A08 / Sepang Brown LSD6 / Carbon Leather 4MY (1 of 3, this combo) RAC RG63 | Conti EC-DW | GC/Koni-Dinan | Rogue RSM | Arqray | Autosolutions | BMW brace | Pinnacle tint |
Appreciate
0
|
09-20-2010, 04:51 PM | #15 |
Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 12
Rep 725
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-20-2010, 06:48 PM | #17 |
Lieutenant General
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 2432
Rep 11,667
Posts |
One trick is to leave the nut on until after cutting & filing.
Then remove the nut & it will smooth the threads a bit more. If you have a vise it's a 60sec job.
__________________
'21 M2C Hockenheim Silver
'18 718 Cayman S Lava Orange (sold) '13 E92 M3 Santorini Blue (sold) '07 Z4 M Coupe Alpine White (sold) |
Appreciate
0
|
09-20-2010, 08:59 PM | #19 |
Certified Adrenaline Junkie
![]() 43
Rep 1,325
Posts |
http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showp...62&postcount=2
Is what I did. Still had to cut it tho. Dremel FTW! |
Appreciate
0
|
09-20-2010, 09:55 PM | #20 | |
Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 42
Rep 632
Posts |
Quote:
![]() Visualize this then - you have the bolt in your hand - you thread on the nut and then you slide the washer on behind the nut - there will be nothing between the washer and the end of the bolt. So, you now have, from one end to the other, rubber end of bolt, threaded part of bolt, nut, washer, more threaded bolt and then the end of the threads. You then take the bolt and screw it into the threaded insert where the original clutch stop was. You fiddle with it getting it the right distance from the floor so that the clutch disengages fully, but the bolt is out as far as possible. Then, once you've got the right location, you hold the stud still and thread the nut&washer down tightening them against the threaded insert in the firewall to lock the bolt in place and viola! Done deal!
__________________
![]() |=.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-._.-.=| Silbergrau A08 / Sepang Brown LSD6 / Carbon Leather 4MY (1 of 3, this combo) RAC RG63 | Conti EC-DW | GC/Koni-Dinan | Rogue RSM | Arqray | Autosolutions | BMW brace | Pinnacle tint |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-20-2010, 11:53 PM | #21 | |
///M-fanatic
![]() 193
Rep 3,885
Posts |
Quote:
That was very enlightening lolol thanks! This is all of course assuming I've already made the cut on the bolt thread correct? Cuz otherwise I don't see how I could adjust the clutchstop to where the clutch engagement point is. I guess I will try it then. Dremel, here I come >=D |
|
Appreciate
0
|
09-21-2010, 05:59 AM | #22 |
Captain
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() 12
Rep 725
Posts |
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|