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      10-01-2013, 10:41 PM   #1
nekky
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Fault code P1633

Anyone have experience with this one? I've read "throttle body" but ours is a little different than a single-throttle M54 type deal...

TIA,
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      10-29-2013, 05:43 PM   #2
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Did you figure this out? I just got it, along with P1644 and P0411(old second air code)
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      10-29-2013, 06:49 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
Did you figure this out? I just got it, along with P1644 and P0411(old second air code)
Nope. My next step is to rip off the ESS manifold and manually clean all the butterflies etc... Dunno what else to do? Any idea on your end man?
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      10-29-2013, 08:00 PM   #4
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did you try clearing your codes?
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      10-29-2013, 08:37 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
did you try clearing your codes?
Yup. Car is not experiencing a CEL right now, but is still running shitty. I replaced my pre-cat O2 sensor in Bank 2 and it runs *better* but still nowhere close to normal.
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      10-29-2013, 08:49 PM   #6
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odd, I have the same code, running fine. Are you on stock VT2-500 hardware and software?
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      10-30-2013, 05:50 AM   #7
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wonder if it caused but excessive wheel slip with the T/C engaged??? i had this code but it doesnt cause a light????
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      10-30-2013, 08:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
wonder if it caused but excessive wheel slip with the T/C engaged??? i had this code but it doesnt cause a light????
possible.
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      10-30-2013, 11:55 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
odd, I have the same code, running fine. Are you on stock VT2-500 hardware and software?
Yeah, I think it may be something else... No idea. There's no good BMW tuners in my town here... Might have to drive the car somewhere next spring (winter will be here within a week or two) and get it all sorted over the course of a few days.

My P3cars gauge is reading that the throttle is at 5% even at idle. Does this sound weird? Could the butterflies be stuck open slightly, causing the shitty idle, almost dying when the revs come down and the dead/not dead/dead/not dead feeling I get in the gas pedal?

This may all sound crazy, but I've basically given up on getting the car to run properly this year.
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      10-30-2013, 11:55 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
wonder if it caused but excessive wheel slip with the T/C engaged??? i had this code but it doesnt cause a light????
As much as I wish it was this simple, I doubt it. I don't beat on the car a ton because I still don't feel 100% confident that it's up to snuff. The code hasn't come back since I replaced my O2 Sensor.
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      10-30-2013, 12:11 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nekky View Post
... My P3cars gauge is reading that the throttle is at 5% even at idle. Does this sound weird? ...
My DashCommand shows 6% at idle. I think that's normal.
There's no idle bypass on the S54.
75% throttle at WOT is also normal
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      10-30-2013, 01:45 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon View Post
My DashCommand shows 6% at idle. I think that's normal.
There's no idle bypass on the S54.
75% throttle at WOT is also normal
Ya mine fluctuates from 5 to 6% so that makes me feel better about that not being the problem.

I really need to figure out why it's running shitty.

Anyone else have a "dead" feeling gas pedal? And the dead feeling fluctuates as well. Sometimes it feels like stock, sometimes it feels like the first inch or two, I have nothing. And then it bogs if you just lightly press it. So confused!!!
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      10-30-2013, 02:13 PM   #13
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have you checked your throttle position sensors? There are 2
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      10-31-2013, 10:14 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZStig View Post
have you checked your throttle position sensors? There are 2
I read that the most common one with a fault is the one located under the intake manifold, which is a bitch to get to on NA cars. Luckily, with the ESS manifold, one needn't worry; it's easy to change. I took the one at the front of the throttle bodies off my dad's coupe and swapped it with the one located under the manifold on my roadster, and it *seemed* to make a bit of a difference, but I think that was just the placebo effect. Still runs like crap. That was well over a month ago too, and my dad's car is running fine as well. Obviously wasn't bad.

I actually thought there were *three* TPS. Isn't there some sort of sensor actually *at* the gas pedal???
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      10-31-2013, 11:22 AM   #15
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nekky when you say runs like crap, can you elaborate alittle more?? what exactly are you experiencing???
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      11-01-2013, 12:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beedub View Post
nekky when you say runs like crap, can you elaborate alittle more?? what exactly are you experiencing???
On startup, it will rev uncontrollably up and down at varying RPMs (usually from 700-1600 or so. The only "control" I have over it is that if I hold the gas pedal down a certain percentage and try to modulate how much it revs, I can eventually sort of catch it and rein it in.

After it stops the revving, it will idle *rock solid* for the next few minutes, and even while driving, it will run and drive near-perfect.

After it warms up some more, it will now proceed to bog if I push the clutch in and let the revs drop. Sometimes it will die.

In addition, after a few minutes more, still running well while driving, it will now *idle* shitty too. It feels like a lumpy idle and that it's missing or something. The car has a brand new VANOS system as well as spark plugs.

I know there are a lot more things I could do but I've checked quite a few things already and I'm not an expert. It's getting late in the year so I doubt I'll figure it out this season lol.

Any input? Thanks in advance!
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      11-01-2013, 01:54 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nekky View Post
On startup, it will rev uncontrollably up and down at varying RPMs (usually from 700-1600 or so. The only "control" I have over it is that if I hold the gas pedal down a certain percentage and try to modulate how much it revs, I can eventually sort of catch it and rein it in.

After it stops the revving, it will idle *rock solid* for the next few minutes, and even while driving, it will run and drive near-perfect.

After it warms up some more, it will now proceed to bog if I push the clutch in and let the revs drop. Sometimes it will die.

In addition, after a few minutes more, still running well while driving, it will now *idle* shitty too. It feels like a lumpy idle and that it's missing or something. The car has a brand new VANOS system as well as spark plugs.

I know there are a lot more things I could do but I've checked quite a few things already and I'm not an expert. It's getting late in the year so I doubt I'll figure it out this season lol.

Any input? Thanks in advance!
Nekky,
Didn't you drive this back from Ontario or Quebec??
What have you done to the motor since then, Vanos, plugs what else?
The erratic idle sounds like its in "limp mode" but if you can baby it to the point that it will settle into idle and drive it probably isn't that.
Have you checked the connections on all the parts you took off and replaced during the Vanos change.
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      11-01-2013, 03:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbarton62 View Post
Nekky,
Didn't you drive this back from Ontario or Quebec??
What have you done to the motor since then, Vanos, plugs what else?
The erratic idle sounds like its in "limp mode" but if you can baby it to the point that it will settle into idle and drive it probably isn't that.
Have you checked the connections on all the parts you took off and replaced during the Vanos change.
VANOS, plugs, played with swapping the TPS between my dad's coupe and this one..

Next step is to make sure all the connections are good with the VANOS.. have any specific suggestions?? My father thinks it could be the solenoid pack.
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      11-01-2013, 04:06 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nekky View Post
VANOS, plugs, played with swapping the TPS between my dad's coupe and this one..

Next step is to make sure all the connections are good with the VANOS.. have any specific suggestions?? My father thinks it could be the solenoid pack.
No specific ideas other than double check ALL connections you touched or went near during the VANOS install.
Are you sure all the coil packs are seated properly?
So many things could have become dislodged working around under the bonnet, retrace the steps you took doing the work and eliminate those things as the problem.
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      11-01-2013, 09:28 PM   #20
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Have you checked the Vanos adaptations?
I had similar issues and it turned out the mechanic that replaced my Vanos bolts had the cam timing way off.
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      11-02-2013, 02:06 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StickMon
Have you checked the Vanos adaptations?
I had similar issues and it turned out the mechanic that replaced my Vanos bolts had the cam timing way off.
Now that is a good suggestion
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      11-03-2013, 01:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
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Now that is a good suggestion
Believe it or not, I was worried about the timing from the moment I knew it had to be re-timed (obviously). What would the best way to go about making sure the timing is spot on without taking everything apart?
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