Tuneless header CEL fix for ///Ms.

[Nate2046]

Originally Posted by DarkstarZero

I just got mine yesterday and I plan to do the same thing, install the sim today and do the headers on Saturday. I don't see why there should be any problem with that.

Yeah, I actually think it will be a good diagnostic just to make sure the sim is working and installed properly before moving any of the o2 sensors and introducing the possibility of error there. Just wanted to confirm with the man himself. Let us know how the install goes. I should be getting it in sometime this week.

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by Nate2046

Alright just got my O-cha 02 sim today. Looks very well put together and the instructions are very detailed with pics for every step. Looks to be a fairly easy install.

One small question though. I assume theres no reason not to go ahead and put the sim in now even though my headers haven't come in yet? I figured it would be a good way to verify the functionality of the sim itself without the possibility of having accidentally switched any 02 sensor positions during header install. Plus it will be one less thing to do when the headers do arrive.

Originally Posted by DarkstarZero

I just got mine yesterday and I plan to do the same thing, install the sim today and do the headers on Saturday. I don't see why there should be any problem with that.

Hey guys I'll be emailing both of you to make sure you get this, do NOT do this, it is not how they are designed and will actually cause sizable issues.

If anything I suggest not installing them, even after you have installed the headers, until you throw a CEL, that way you know the o2 sensors were installed correctly. IE the CEL should be for cat inefficiency not swapped sensors.

[Nate2046]

Damn, well I'm glad I asked first! Will definitely do it in the order you suggest. Thanks

[DarkstarZero]

The Sim was really easy to install! Thanks O-Cha!

As for the headers though... I couldn't get the O2 sensors off the stock headers so I'm taking them to a shop to get removed. Once I get those off the stock headers and on the AA headers I'll be set.

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by DarkstarZero

The Sim was really easy to install! Thanks O-Cha!

As for the headers though... I couldn't get the O2 sensors off the stock headers so I'm taking them to a shop to get removed. Once I get those off the stock headers and on the AA headers I'll be set.

Dam really? I thought once off the car you would be able to get them off. Righty tighty lefty loosey? Haha I kid I kid.

Make sure you reinstall them with some antiseaze on the threads, don't get it on the sensor itself. Maybe the monkeys at the factory somehow forgot this step as I remember mine were harder then usual as well.

[Nate2046]

Originally Posted by DarkstarZero

The Sim was really easy to install! Thanks O-Cha!

So, did you wait until you got the CEL to install the sim, or header and sim at the same time? My headers are sitting at my house, looking forward to the install this week after I get out of NYC.

[DarkstarZero]

Originally Posted by Nate2046

So, did you wait until you got the CEL to install the sim, or header and sim at the same time? My headers are sitting at my house, looking forward to the install this week after I get out of NYC.

I doing the sim and headers at the same time.

[DarkstarZero]

I took the old headers to my local shop yesterday to remove the O2 sensors and they did it in 2 minutes, didn't charge me a thing So I installed the AA headers last night. Why would anyone spend over a grand for exhaust cans that give +2HP when headers cost about the same and give 15-20HP and sound AMAZING! It sounds like I have a 6.2L V8 under the hood.

The sim is working perfect, no CEL at all. One problem though, since I installed the headers my windows are no longer one-touch going up. Could this be because of the sim or because my windows were down when I disconnected the battery? I don't really want to take a software problem to the dealer because they'll just void my warranty once they see the sim.

[mousitch]

Good to hear how good they sound! Mine(cross fingers) will go on Saturday. Putting on under pulleys tonight. So do you think it's possible to get the 02's out with some pb blaster?

[mousitch]

Originally Posted by DarkstarZero

The sim is working perfect, no CEL at all. One problem though, since I installed the headers my windows are no longer one-touch going up. Could this be because of the sim or because my windows were down when I disconnected the battery? I don't really want to take a software problem to the dealer because they'll just void my warranty once they see the sim.

You need to renit your windows. Here you go:

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62834

"Initialization is performed on the power window switch of the relevant door.
Requirements for correct initialization:
• Initialization with engine running
• Convertible top, doors and windows closed

Initialization comprises:
• Erasure of initialization
• Reinitialization

An initialization must be performed:
• In the event of malfunctions, e.g. no one-touch control function, no opening or if available no comfort function is possible
• After the power window drive has been replaced
• After work is carried out on the power window mechanism
• After a power supply interruption, e.g. disconnection of the battery or disconnection of the power supply to the door
• After the door window glass has been removed and installed or replaced
• After adjustment work on the door window glass
• After adjustment work on the convertible top
• After replacement of seals

Erasure of initialization:
• Open door window glass fully
• Operate power window switch in "Open" position four times within 10 seconds

This erases initialization of the power window, anti-trapping protection and toll function are inactive.
Check whether one-touch control (toll) function is inactive, otherwise repeat procedure.

Reinitialization:
Avoid a break between the two steps!
• Open door window glass fully
• Operate and hold power window switch in "Close" position (second switch stage)
• Once the upper end position has been reached, hold power window switch in "Close" position for approx. 2 seconds longer
• Open door window glass fully
• Operate and hold power window switch in "Close" position (second switch stage)
• Once the upper end position has been reached, hold power window switch in "Close" position for approx. 2 seconds longer"
__________________

[DarkstarZero]

Originally Posted by mousitch

Good to hear how good they sound! Mine(cross fingers) will go on Saturday. Putting on under pulleys tonight. So do you think it's possible to get the 02's out with some pb blaster?

Yeah but you need the correct sized box wrench and a vice. I didn't have either. But good to know my shop will help me out with things like that and not charge.

Thanks for the window tip!

[mousitch]

I need the sims now myself. Powerchip can't shut off the 02's cause they fired all of their programmers. I was getting it done for cheap too because I have already gotten their intial tune. So now it's either sims or a $800 reflash from someone else. I was hoping to get a few extra HP's from the tune but I just cant swing it $$$ after the $$$ headers.

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by DarkstarZero

I took the old headers to my local shop yesterday to remove the O2 sensors and they did it in 2 minutes, didn't charge me a thing So I installed the AA headers last night. Why would anyone spend over a grand for exhaust cans that give +2HP when headers cost about the same and give 15-20HP and sound AMAZING! It sounds like I have a 6.2L V8 under the hood.

The sim is working perfect, no CEL at all. One problem though, since I installed the headers my windows are no longer one-touch going up. Could this be because of the sim or because my windows were down when I disconnected the battery? I don't really want to take a software problem to the dealer because they'll just void my warranty once they see the sim.

The window thing happens whenever you disconnect the battery. The above instructions should help.

Originally Posted by mousitch

I need the sims now myself. Powerchip can't shut off the 02's cause they fired all of their programmers. I was getting it done for cheap too because I have already gotten their intial tune. So now it's either sims or a $800 reflash from someone else. I was hoping to get a few extra HP's from the tune but I just cant swing it $$$ after the $$$ headers.

Yea, gonna reply to your PM next, but don't worry driving it one hurt anything short term.

[Nate2046]

Originally Posted by mousitch

Good to hear how good they sound! Mine(cross fingers) will go on Saturday. Putting on under pulleys tonight. So do you think it's possible to get the 02's out with some pb blaster?

I've been wrestling with my rear o2's for the past hour. PB Blaster galore then finally resorted to gentle use of the torch to heat the bung. No dice. FAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHKKKKKKKKK

[mousitch]

Originally Posted by Nate2046

I've been wrestling with my rear o2's for the past hour. PB Blaster galore then finally resorted to gentle use of the torch to heat the bung. No dice. FAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHKKKKKKKKK

Ugh. Im not looking forward to this. ETA Saturday morning.

[Nate2046]

Originally Posted by mousitch

Ugh. Im not looking forward to this. ETA Saturday morning.

Good luck! I'm sure its a matter of mileage, environment, usage, etc. as to how badly seized are the rear o2's. I made the mistake of trying to remove them after having taken the headers off the car. At that point its really hard to get good leverage without the header moving around. If you have a good table vise, probably not a problem. If not, try to break them free while the header is still attached to the head.

If anybody has a trick to removing the header nuts without the studs backing out please post it for the benefit of others. I ended up pulling 14 studs out of the head and only 4 nuts cleanly. Another PITA of this install

[mousitch]

How many miles on you ride? The stud deal sounds wonderful

[Nate2046]

Originally Posted by mousitch

How many miles on you ride? The stud deal sounds wonderful

27k, year round driver though. Just set aside a whole day for the install. The people that tell you 3 hours have either done it multiple times and know all the tricks, have a lift, have a bmw tech as a helper, are full of shit, or all of the above. Either that or they're freaking ninja-type mechanics

[O-cha]

Originally Posted by Nate2046

I've been wrestling with my rear o2's for the past hour. PB Blaster galore then finally resorted to gentle use of the torch to heat the bung. No dice. FAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHKKKKKKKKK

Originally Posted by Nate2046

Good luck! I'm sure its a matter of mileage, environment, usage, etc. as to how badly seized are the rear o2's. I made the mistake of trying to remove them after having taken the headers off the car. At that point its really hard to get good leverage without the header moving around. If you have a good table vise, probably not a problem. If not, try to break them free while the header is still attached to the head.

If anybody has a trick to removing the header nuts without the studs backing out please post it for the benefit of others. I ended up pulling 14 studs out of the head and only 4 nuts cleanly. Another PITA of this install

Originally Posted by Nate2046

27k, year round driver though. Just set aside a whole day for the install. The people that tell you 3 hours have either done it multiple times and know all the tricks, have a lift, have a bmw tech as a helper, are full of shit, or all of the above. Either that or they're freaking ninja-type mechanics

Hey, yea you need a vice once they are out of the car or a big old size 13 shoe, either works fine. PB blast wont do much on o2 sensors and isn't recommended.

If you have the proper tool (IE not a 2 sided wrench but a multi sided O2 socket wrench). put it on there and use the handle of a jack to serve as an extension.

In regards to the studs puling out, use PBblast on them and let them soak. Other than that there's no special trick. If they do pull out make sure you put them in before tightening anything else down and alternate snugging each stud back in to insure you don't break the nut loose while tightening resulting in poor stud to head engagement.

Also, I have pulled off a header swap on a Z4M in less than two hours, you can hate me if you would like.

[DarkstarZero]

Originally Posted by Nate2046

Good luck! I'm sure its a matter of mileage, environment, usage, etc. as to how badly seized are the rear o2's. I made the mistake of trying to remove them after having taken the headers off the car. At that point its really hard to get good leverage without the header moving around. If you have a good table vise, probably not a problem. If not, try to break them free while the header is still attached to the head.

If anybody has a trick to removing the header nuts without the studs backing out please post it for the benefit of others. I ended up pulling 14 studs out of the head and only 4 nuts cleanly. Another PITA of this install

The easiest, fastest, and cheapest trick is to take the headers to your local shop and ask them to remove the O2s for you. My shop pulled the O2s off in 2 minutes and didn't charge me anything.

[Nate2046]

Originally Posted by O-cha

Also, I have pulled off a header swap on a Z4M in less than two hours, you can hate me if you would like.

Ok, I do hate you

PM sent re SES codes.

[mousitch]

100 miles with headers on and no sim + 200 miles with sim= no codes or engine lights. Looking good!