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      07-04-2013, 04:04 PM   #23
Shipkiller
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You should see 12V at the jump start terminal (the big silver nut on the firewall). It is directly connected to the battery.

http://www.shipkiller.com/Battery_System_Schematic.pdf

Since you have no power to the fan connector, you need to ohm out (continuity check) the wiring of the circuit.

I would ohm out the power wire, from pin two (2) on the fan plug (X1800) to the fuse block. I would then ohm out the ground from pin one (1) on the fan plug to ground. These ground wires go to a common ground buss point. I am having issues with my WDS so I will tell you were the ground point is after I get my java issues fixed.
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      07-04-2013, 04:57 PM   #24
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The ground buss for this (X166) is located on the strut tower....

Here is a picture: http://www.shipkiller.com/images/X16...und%20Buss.png
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      07-04-2013, 11:33 PM   #25
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The ground buss for this (X166) is located on the strut tower....

Here is a picture: http://www.shipkiller.com/images/X16...und%20Buss.png
access to image forbidden
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      07-05-2013, 07:02 AM   #26
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Not sure why this happened. If does work from the main engine cooling menu on the site.

See if this works.

http://www.shipkiller.com/images/X16...und%20Buss.png
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      07-05-2013, 11:16 AM   #27
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Looks like that images folder is set to admin level only. Still unable to access. (But thank you for trying.)
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      07-05-2013, 11:18 AM   #28
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ok well, apparently I need a new fan

I wasn't getting power on the connector when it was disconnected to the fan, but when connected to the fan, and I prodded in there, there is a 12v signal. The connectors on the fan itself have 0 resistance.
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      07-05-2013, 11:19 AM   #29
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ok well, apparently I need a new fan

I wasn't getting power on the connector when it was disconnected to the fan, but when connected to the fan, and I prodded in there, there is a 12v signal. The connectors on the fan itself have 0 resistance.
Damn that's weird, I can probably count on one hand how many times my fan even activated on the hottest days. I would think it would last longer, they are not cheap.
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      07-05-2013, 11:27 AM   #30
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Damn that's weird, I can probably count on one hand how many times my fan even activated on the hottest days. I would think it would last longer, they are not cheap.
Wow. I can get ours (both cars) to kick in even in not so hot weather. A few semi-hard runs and then a stoplight will do it every time. I wonder why the variance, especially given we're in the same location more or less. Hmmm.

ZStig, that stinks the fan bit the dust but I guess you have a diagnosis and repair plan now.
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      07-05-2013, 12:00 PM   #31
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yup. I'm thinking of going with an aftermarket fan. The stock one is $530 + shipping

Anyone know the flow rate of the stock one?
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      07-05-2013, 05:25 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Finnegan View Post
Wow. I can get ours (both cars) to kick in even in not so hot weather. A few semi-hard runs and then a stoplight will do it every time. I wonder why the variance, especially given we're in the same location more or less. Hmmm.

ZStig, that stinks the fan bit the dust but I guess you have a diagnosis and repair plan now.
I'm not sure, it could be that by the time I was done driving in the hot weather, I have a few miles with which to cool it down before driving into the garage, so I rarely heard it outside the car itself.
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      07-05-2013, 06:43 PM   #33
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This is the fan I ordered. Will be here tomorrow. Thank God for Amazon's overnight shipping

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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      07-05-2013, 10:26 PM   #34
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This is the fan I ordered. Will be here tomorrow. Thank God for Amazon's overnight shipping

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Is this similar to the one people used for the E46M3 fan delete? Damn good price.
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      07-06-2013, 10:17 AM   #35
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Is this similar to the one people used for the E46M3 fan delete? Damn good price.
I paid even less, $87, buying Amazon's last one

Not sure if E46M3 people use this. Hoping it will actually be an improvement over stock, which would help keep things cooler under the hood and increase power on my super heat-sensitive setup
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      07-06-2013, 10:29 AM   #36
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the only thing that worries me is it will be running at 100% all the time, which might get annoying, BUT if it does get annoying, I'll get this kit:

http://www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-3116..._huc_mrai_3_dp

I'm also gonna try to integrate it into the OEM fan shroud
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      07-06-2013, 10:51 AM   #37
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ZStig,

I removed my engine driven fan and installed two big modo fans with dual controllers on my F-150, and ran them for nine years. If you go the fan controller route, there are some gotchas to be aware of.

1. Controller mounting point is key. Put the controller in some type of waterproof box. I went through six controllers. No matter how well you think you have it waterproofed, water always finds a way in and destroys the controller if it is not in a box. Your fan has 11 amps of draw after start. I bet it's close to 30amps for startup current. Mine were 14amps running and 30amps startup, each! With that much current, any water will destroy the controller. Sometimes in quite spectacular fashion....

When you set the temperature set points, try to sample what the ECU is reading for temp. That way you can get as close as possible to what a normal fan will start at. Plus, its more accurate than using a thermometer.
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      07-08-2013, 02:37 PM   #38
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I got the new aftermarket fan in there, but the car is running warmer than stock by 10-15 degrees if I drive it hard. Maybe its because the stock fan is 19", and this one is only 16". It seems to blow hard, but obviously its not good enough

Does anyone know of a place I can send in my broken OEM fan to get repaired?
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      08-06-2019, 10:59 AM   #39
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Bump anyone else have this issue? The DIY for replacing the fan looks really simple. All the years have been on here though, seems so random relative to other issues. New fans only $100 but has anyone else needed to deal with this? Error code I got was 2F71E
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