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      08-07-2009, 10:25 PM   #1
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(Resolved, see post 16 below) Light Clunk - Starting off in 1st, sometimes backing up

I've tried searching the forums and have found numerous references to different clunks people have experienced. This clunk involves disengaging the clutch while backing up or taking off (too?) carefully.

Recently had an SSK and the modified CDV valve installed, but the sound was there before this work was done.

When the car was up on the lift we (the mechanic and I) looked the drive train over, checked the Guibo, and shook all of the drive shafts... no excessive play was found.

If you had to imagine the sound its like if you had an thin aluminum hollow tube sealed on both ends in your hand and you deliberately tap one end on your garage floor. Not loud by any means but a light solid sound, It's like the drive shaft is a bit out of sync as you let the clutch out.

Has anyone heard this or have any idea's?

Dave
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Last edited by WhoU4; 08-04-2010 at 11:43 PM..
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      08-11-2009, 10:24 AM   #2
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does it sound like someone is rolling dice in a wood box?
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      08-11-2009, 10:36 AM   #3
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Sounds like your brake pad(s) shifting -- which would be a normal sound.
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      08-11-2009, 01:49 PM   #4
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Sticky parking brake?
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      08-11-2009, 03:09 PM   #5
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I had a sound like this happen after washing the car and then not driving it for a few days
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      08-12-2009, 10:08 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mpower03 View Post
does it sound like someone is rolling dice in a wood box?
mpower03 No... thank goodness, I can only imagine that being a clutch about to burst or defective transmission.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jragan View Post
Sounds like your brake pad(s) shifting -- which would be a normal sound.
jragan that's an interesting thought. I guess the only real way to test this would be to make sure to apply alot of pressure to the brakes and then backup... or when the same when stopping and taking off.

Or am I better off pulling the wheels to check the play in the pads?

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Originally Posted by RV8tor View Post
Sticky parking brake?
Quote:
Originally Posted by jman1975 View Post
I had a sound like this happen after washing the car and then not driving it for a few days
RV8tor and jman1975,

I really don't use the parking brake unless really necessary (like on my driveway), but I've had that "pop" you get if you wash the car and leave it on for a couple of hours before moving it.

I'm going to take a good look at everything under the car again in about a week when I can get it up on a lift. Going to make sure the shock mounts and springs are all okay also.

Thanks!

Dave
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      08-12-2009, 10:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jman1975 View Post
I had a sound like this happen after washing the car and then not driving it for a few days
Exactly! That is why I wrote it off to a sticky parking brake. The wet pads probably stuck to the rotor and dried. First movement 'broke' the seal, making the noise.
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      08-12-2009, 01:08 PM   #8
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Have you looked carefully at the suspension springs at the base? The sound might be coming from a spring which has broken on the end and is shifting slightly when the suspension compresses or extends. See this thread for additional info: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9219
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      08-14-2009, 09:33 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Incompatible View Post
Have you looked carefully at the suspension springs at the base? The sound might be coming from a spring which has broken on the end and is shifting slightly when the suspension compresses or extends. See this thread for additional info: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=9219
I pulled the wheels yesterday, and the springs look good (so far). I had seen the link you posted a while back but really is an eye opener to see how consistent the issue seems to be on higher millage Z4's.

Not sure it would create a clunk but I'm still questioning is the space between the bushings and the sway bar end link mounts. (Pic Below) Bushings too worn or just not torqued tight enough? The picture is from the right rear, the gap on the left rear was not quite as large.

Dave
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      08-30-2009, 03:21 PM   #10
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WhoU4,

See my post at http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5783602. My issues started out with a clunk, which could be much more pronounced on fast, high-RPM shifts. Is your car still under warranty?

Cheers,

DarKWing
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      08-30-2009, 11:19 PM   #11
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Check Rear diff Bushings
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      08-31-2009, 09:59 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarKWing View Post

My issues started out with a clunk, which could be much more pronounced on fast, high-RPM shifts. Is your car still under warranty?

Cheers,

DarKWing
DarKWing I am under the CPO warranty now, but I am not experiencing the same issues you were in your post. The car is about to roll 40K miles this week, and I can get through all of the gears fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackSapphireZ View Post
Check Rear diff Bushings
BlackSapphireZ, Will have it up on a lift this week and will take a good look at the diff Bushings...

Really beginning to wonder if it might be in the parking brake mechanism. Since it's self contained, drum style in the rotor I believe. Set the parking brake, shut off the car and release the brake pedal... the rear of the car lifts a bit and makes some noise.

Dave
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      09-01-2009, 04:48 PM   #13
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This has happened to me 3 times. Each time it was the first time driving after I washed the car and put it in the garage. It's the PARKING BRAKE!
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      05-10-2010, 06:56 PM   #14
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Same Noise

Hey, I have the exact same noise that you are mentioning, sort of like a hollow bell or a muted aluminum pipe. I'm wondering if you ever got a conclusive solution for your problem. I've been researching this thing for the last month and have ruled out the bushing and brakes and springs myself. So now I have an appointment on thursday to have a mechanic double check me.

I'll post when I get his response.
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      05-10-2010, 07:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patameus View Post
Hey, I have the exact same noise that you are mentioning, sort of like a hollow bell or a muted aluminum pipe. I'm wondering if you ever got a conclusive solution for your problem. I've been researching this thing for the last month and have ruled out the bushing and brakes and springs myself. So now I have an appointment on Thursday to have a mechanic double check me.

I'll post when I get his response.
patameus,

No, nothing conclusive. As jragan mentioned I think it may be the brake pads shifting, or the drive train pre-loading prior to take off.

If I'm real easy on the RPM's and slowly release the clutch I can hear the noise, if I give her a bit of life (1200-1400 rpm) and take off I don't hear it.

Funny thing is the car runs great, no noticeable issues with shifting... drive-ability... or handling. So I would be interested in what you find out, if you wouldn't mind following up.

Thanks!
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      07-30-2010, 06:37 PM   #16
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(Resolved) Light Clunk - Starting off in 1st, sometimes backing up

Well mentioned the Clunk issue again while in at the dealer for a coolant flush, and they were able to reproduce the noise. Last year I was told it was normal, this year the dealership said they would need the car for more time to diagnose. Anyway I took her in yesterday and received a call that they found a TB (SIB) that should address the issue and that they ordered some parts.

Picked up the car today and it's as quiet as could be.

The clunk, or "creaking", was coming from the input flange of the differential. Following the SIB they removed flange, applied grease (CASTROL OPTITEMP HT) per SIB. Parts replaced, Input Shaft Seal and Securing Plate.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...42&hg=33&fg=05

Will see how she holds up.
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Last edited by WhoU4; 07-30-2010 at 11:51 PM..
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      12-26-2010, 01:53 AM   #17
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^ can you post the SIB?
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      12-26-2010, 10:00 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoU4 View Post
I pulled the wheels yesterday, and the springs look good (so far). I had seen the link you posted a while back but really is an eye opener to see how consistent the issue seems to be on higher millage Z4's.

Not sure it would create a clunk but I'm still questioning is the space between the bushings and the sway bar end link mounts. (Pic Below) Bushings too worn or just not torqued tight enough? The picture is from the right rear, the gap on the left rear was not quite as large.

Dave
That there is normal, If you put the rear of the car on jackstands, then jack up on the rear tire and watch that end-link, you will notice that it will re-align itself perfectly once load is placed on the suspension.

When you lift the rear and take off suspension components (IE: letting the rear end really hang without support) it is not uncommon to snap those end links. I used to see this a lot in the M3 days with all the DIY'ers that didn't follow proper procedures.


Sure your not talking about the typical "M Clunk" ?

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showt...ighlight=Clunk
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      12-26-2010, 10:42 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F1soul View Post
^ can you post the SIB?
F1soul sure, the SIB number is 33 04 08 and the link is below... credit to Shipkiller for creating his SIB page!

http://68.230.199.103:8080/SI%20B%20...Aug%202009.pdf


Quote:
Originally Posted by Rated M View Post
That there is normal, If you put the rear of the car on jackstands, then jack up on the rear tire and watch that end-link, you will notice that it will re-align itself perfectly once load is placed on the suspension.

When you lift the rear and take off suspension components (IE: letting the rear end really hang without support) it is not uncommon to snap those end links. I used to see this a lot in the M3 days with all the DIY'ers that didn't follow proper procedures.


Sure your not talking about the typical "M Clunk" ?
Rated M, Thanks for the information on the end links, was still wondering a bit about that being normal. As for the "Clunk", or creak it was resolved with the SIB at the link above.
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      12-27-2010, 06:12 PM   #20
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I hate that service bulitens are not covered for all vehicles even if they are not under warranty. I know the sound you are talking about and at least now I know how to correct it.

Just had a head on my wifes american car go with only 68k on it, burnt a single exhaust valve to out of round with several cracks. All the others(15) were perfect. Service bulitin on it pin pointed the problem right down to the cylinder but not covered...Explination was that it was not safety related so its not covered....
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      08-23-2013, 11:11 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoU4 View Post
F1soul sure, the SIB number is 33 04 08 and the link is below... credit to Shipkiller for creating his SIB page!

http://68.230.199.103:8080/SI%20B%20...Aug%202009.pdf




Rated M, Thanks for the information on the end links, was still wondering a bit about that being normal. As for the "Clunk", or creak it was resolved with the SIB at the link above.
Does anyone have a copy of this SIB. Shipkillers website appears to be down. I want to get this done. Thanks.
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      08-23-2013, 04:54 PM   #22
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Nate96,

I don't have a copy, this is the best I could do in finding anything. If your going to get your parts and supplies from someone like Tischer they may be willing to throw in a copy of the SIB.

Dave

Tischer Link: http://getbmwparts.com/

SI B33 04 08
Rear Axle
August 2009
Technical Service
This Service Information bulletin supersedes SI B33 04 09 dated October 2008.
[NEW] designates changes to this revision
The differential input flange mating surface with the input drive pinion is insufficiently greased.
E82 and E88 (1 Series), all models
E85 and E86 (Z4), all models
E60 and E61 (5 Series), all models
E63 and E64 (6 Series), all models
E65 and E66 (7 Series), all models
E90, E91, E92 and E93 (3 Series), all models
The customer complains that a single cracking or clicking noise can be heard from the rear of the vehicle while engaging a drive gear, releasing the clutch, during load reversal (shifting from reverse to drive, etc.), or when accelerating from a stationary position.
This is not a failure of the differential assembly. Do not replace the complete differential.
Remove the differential drive flange in accordance with Repair Instruction RA 33 11 021. Apply lubricant [NEW] P/N 83 23 0 443 864 on the input flange mating surface (1), as described in the illustration.
Before complete reassembly. replace the input flange seal and collar nut retaining plate as described in RA 33 01 021. Refer to the EPC for correct part numbers, based on model.
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