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09-08-2012, 11:03 PM | #1 |
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Noob questions
Recently purchased a Z4 MR with 22k miles and have a few questions. (Sorry to those of you who have read a few of my posts and already know what I purchased, I'll try not to repeat this too many times!) I realize some of this may have been covered in previous posts, but I've done my best to read up on some of this and also read the FAQ section. Any questions I have either haven't been covered previously, I have a little tweak to previous questions or I just don't have enough time to read through all the various threads on certain subjects.
* is there anything in particular I should point out to dealer to check out before warranty runs out May, 2013? Or will they just do their normal inspections based on mileage? * For those of you in the Twin Cities area of MN, which BMW shop do you recommend? (Any good indy shops in the Twin Cities?) * If I go to an indy shop and provide those service records to a future buyer when trying to sell the car, will those be "as" valid (in most buyer's eyes) as BMW service records? * CDV. I'm having a hard time understanding this CDV issue/solution. Is the problem that the clutch is too firm, and pops out too quickly? By deleting the CDV does that allow for a more gradual release of the pedal? It's literally been a few decades since I've owned a manual transmission, but I don't recall ever having one where the clutch was so darn firm and hit a "break point" as quickly as this one. I could live with it, but wouldn't mind a more gradual release, though I don't want something that feels loose and sloppy. Also, I'm not super handy - is this something I could do on my own? How much does a dealer or shop charge to do it? * I've already noticed that after 200 miles of driving, I have a fair amount of brake dust. Is there any easy way to minimize this brake dust buildup on the wheels, without replacing the brake pads? When it's time to replace the brake pads, what should I use? * Is it ok to take a soft top convertible through a car wash? Generally I would try to hand wash the car, but even then, am I ok to wash the top with something? * When I hit the automatic top up button I notice that the last foot or so of it's "drop" to the windshield frame it comes down fairly hard. Should I put my hand up to "help" the top down a bit? Just looking to reduce long term wear and tear. * I noticed that it's a bit of a pain to start in first gear. My Dad used to call first gear the "granny gear," and now I see why. In just the first day of driving I started taking off in second gear. I realize I don't get a lot of initial pop out of that second gear start, but my main concern is whether I'm doing any damage to the car by continually starting in second gear? And a follow up question, let's say I want to race a guy at a light. MUST I start in first gear in order to get some "oomph" out of the start? Or if I hit the gas hard enough before letting the clutch out will I get enough oomph in second gear? * At some point in the near future I'll stop driving the car for the winter months. It will stay in our insulated (but not heated) garage. What do I need to do to the car to prep for this storage period? Do I need to start the car up throughout the winter? Do I put a battery trickle charger on? * I'd like to get a cover for the car - just something simple to keep the dust off and hopefully keep any child-induced scratches off the car as well. What's my best option? * Do those wind break shields or nets really help reduce wind noise that much? If so, where's the best place to buy? For my car, is the only option the one that slides over the two headrests? Does that wind up looking tacky? Thanks in advance everyone! Last edited by strokeoluck; 09-08-2012 at 11:20 PM.. |
09-09-2012, 12:18 AM | #2 | |
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Use the search function on this and other forums such as bimmerfest and bimmerforum and you'll find the answer to many of your questions.
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Jim Millet
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09-09-2012, 12:28 AM | #3 |
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Thanks Jim. If anyone else is willing to help with some of this - in particular any good independent Twin Cities shops, I'd be grateful.
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09-09-2012, 11:38 AM | #4 |
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I've never started in 2nd and can't think of any other reasons to do so other than to obtain good traction in bad weather. I would imagine it requires a bit more clutch slippage than starting in 1st and that can't be good for the clutch.
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09-09-2012, 12:49 PM | #5 |
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Welcome.
1. I would take the car to an independent dealer for a full inspection. With that knowledge, take the car to the dealer with the proper wording to get the items addressed. 2. N/A 3. Yes. Service is service. In many cases indy service will be superior to the dealer's. 4. Get rid of the CDV. Approx. $75 to delete as I recall. I don't think it is a hard job. If you are worried about voiding the BMW factory warranty (you mention you have some left), you can replace it with a dummy from Zechausen Racing. In fact, you can read about the CDV on their site: http://zeckhausen.com/cdv.htm 5. Clean the wheels weekly. I know there are low-dust pads available, but not sure of their names. Personally I'm sticking with OE when the time comes. 6/7. N/A for me as I have a coupe. 8. Not sure what you mean when you say it is difficult to start in first gear. If you want a brisk start (not condoning street racing), you need to start in 1st. If you repeatedly start is 2nd I'd worry about premature clutch wear. 9. I'm not an expert in winter prep being in Tucson, but I'd definitely get a trickle charger. 10. Don't know. 11. N/A for me. Have fun!
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09-09-2012, 01:59 PM | #6 |
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* At some point in the near future I'll stop driving the car for the winter months. It will stay in our insulated (but not heated) garage. What do I need to do to the car to prep for this storage period? Do I need to start the car up throughout the winter? Do I put a battery trickle charger on?
A battery tender or equivelent is a wise investment. Fill the tank / add fuel stabilizer. |
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09-09-2012, 05:57 PM | #7 | |
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2. Don't live in Minny, but do NOT take it to BMW of Rochester where I bought my car. They overfilled the oil. 3. Don't know. 4. The M cars, especially the Z4M and Z3M have a clunky, mechanical transmission. It is not a smooth transmission. It makes noises. It is considered a performance transmission though so the intent of a firm break point is there. JUST STOP GRANNY SHIFTING! 5. Brake dust is something you will have to get used to. Large wheels + very large brakes = mucho brake dust. Meet your new best friend in the fight against brake dust: http://www.amazon.com/Magnolia-Brush...ds=spoke+brush 6. Car wash? What are those? Seriously, what are those? Are those the weird tunnels I see non-Z4M auto enthusiasts take their car into and come out looking scratched and like crap? Wash the top and protect:http://www.autogeek.net/303fabcontop.html 7. Normal. Just let it do it's job. 8. Again, it is a clunky performance transmission in a car with a lot of power. You just have to get used to it. 9. Change oil. See autogeek.net for all your paint protection needs. Leave emergency brake off, and out of gear, but put those wedges behind tires. Over inflate tires by a few pounds. Cover up. Leatherique. 303. Only start car when you're going to DRIVE it. Trickly charger if you want. May want to put cardboard under the tires to prevent unevenness. 10. Any decent car cover will suffice. 11. I had several. Got rid of them all. Worthless. Looks tacky IMHO. |
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09-09-2012, 06:03 PM | #8 | |
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09-09-2012, 08:23 PM | #9 |
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Thanks guys - great information. To jmillet, you'll be happy to know that I stayed up until about 2 a.m. trying to read through various posts on some of these topics, and a few others that I found interesting. Some good stuff out there. And I also appreciate those of you that took the time to reply directly to my questions. Thanks again.
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09-09-2012, 09:02 PM | #10 |
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Indy shop:
I had a PPI performed at Imola when shopping for my M. Their PPI results were very detailed and they were clearly experienced in service and knew performance cars, including experience working on Ms. If I lived in MN, I'd take my car here. http://www.imolamotorsports.com/ |
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