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      04-01-2014, 11:33 AM   #1
misterawa
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Mass Airflow Sensor replacement

My Service Engine Soon (SES) light went on and there's a code P0102, Low voltage at Mass or volume Air flow sensor. I checked the boot hose for any leaks and did not notice any. I cleaned the MAF, reset the code, and the SES light came back on.

Any recommendations/suggesstions on which brand MAF to buy and where to purchase it at a reasonable price? TIA
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      04-02-2014, 04:38 PM   #2
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Any recommendations/suggesstions on which brand MAF to buy and where to purchase it at a reasonable price????
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      04-02-2014, 05:12 PM   #3
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Look up the part number at RealOEM, then shop around ECS Tuning, getBMWParts, TheBMWPartStore, Google for more.
I've found their prices to go from high to low in the order listed above.
Let us know where you get the best price & shipping. Always looking for more suppliers.
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      04-03-2014, 09:57 PM   #4
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Don't buy rebuilt or aftermarket, stick with OEM
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      05-20-2014, 02:43 PM   #5
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Hey, I'm throwing the same code along with po172 and po175. Where did you wind up getting the MAF sensor at? And does anybody have any ideas on what could be causing the codes? Car drives great other than an occassional rough idle.
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      05-20-2014, 04:45 PM   #6
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P0172 and P0175 are probably Too Rich, Banks 1, 2, respectively.
Could also be related to MAF.
Try cleaning it with CRC MAF Cleaner?
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      05-21-2014, 12:19 AM   #7
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I actually did that right after reading and clearing the codes. I also went ahead and swapped out the K&N panel filter that came with the car. Codes haven't come back yet but it's only been a day. idle still bounces a bit on cold start but seems steadier during idle when warm. I cleaned the vanos sensors a year ago when I bought the car due to the rough idle but that didn't seem to help anything. Any other ideas before I start replacing expensive stuff like coils, maf, etc?
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      05-21-2014, 07:18 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asianoak View Post
I actually did that right after reading and clearing the codes. I also went ahead and swapped out the K&N panel filter that came with the car. Codes haven't come back yet but it's only been a day. idle still bounces a bit on cold start but seems steadier during idle when warm. I cleaned the vanos sensors a year ago when I bought the car due to the rough idle but that didn't seem to help anything. Any other ideas before I start replacing expensive stuff like coils, maf, etc?
Those K&N oiled panel filters will kill your MAF every time, unless you're EXTREMELY light when you oil it and you clean your MAF at every oil change to prevent build up. I would keep it out, not worth the risk.
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      05-21-2014, 08:30 AM   #9
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That's funny about the K&N. I've stayed away from them on all my BMWs till now. Figured since it came with the car I'd keep it in but reading about this issue I've seen a few threads about ditching which reminded me about it. Strange how they don't seem to affect other manufacturers the same way.
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      05-21-2014, 12:17 PM   #10
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I have a K&N, but I'm having second thoughts.
I oil it lightly, and clean my MAF a week or so after reoiling, but I drive in the desert a lot, and my latest Blackstone report came back high in Silicon.
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      05-21-2014, 05:50 PM   #11
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That's really interesting, I was always under the impression that the oiled filters should stop more than a standard, I could be wrong though... been a long time since I researched filter elements.
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      05-22-2014, 07:32 AM   #12
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Oil impregnated filters DO stop more dirt than a paper filter, for the first 1000 miles or so. After that, oil impregnated filters let in MORE dirt than OEM paper filters. I even have the data to prove it.

OEM’s are always looking for ways to make their vehicles have more power or fuel economy, then question I have is this: If an oil impregnated filter is so much better, why isn’t the OEM’s using these filters on new cars?

Over oiling is a major issue here. Most people will tend to think that if I use ‘this much oil’ on the filter, then ‘THIS much oil’ (read this as more….) should be better… not understanding what they are doing.

K&N is about 'Marketing' and nothing else.

I change my air filter every second oil change.
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      07-07-2014, 12:28 AM   #13
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Okay, so since last post I replaced spark plugs and vcg along with valvetronic gasket and eccentric sensor gasket. Car runs great but low and behold, cel comes back on the other day while driving home. Haven't had a chance to pull codes yet since it is a holiday weekend but spoke to my indie and told him about the rich codes and maf code and he said it's rare for the N52s to get rich codes... We discussed the K&N and his first thought is if the car has a tune. No way of knowing of course since I got it used but second thought was purge valve.

So, I've searched and not much info on this elusive purge valve. Over on the e90 forum there are a few posts about it but of course our specific cars are different. So does anybody have any insight into the purge valve on our cars... Or other ideas as to what could be causing the rich code?
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      07-07-2014, 08:36 AM   #14
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I had those banks too rich codes for a while, and stayed until I gave the car a good run. It occurred after being in storage for a summer on mine. Flogged it for a few days and the codes disappeared. I did not however have the cel.
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      07-07-2014, 10:35 AM   #15
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That's interesting. The codes and cel always shows up after the cars has been driving for a long time. So this past weekend I went out of town for about a three hour drive... Great whole drive there... No issues entire time I was gone ( which is when I happened to talk to my indie) then on drive home after a particularly spirited run through some mountain curves, but after coasting with cruise control for about ten minutes on a long downhill is when the cel came on. Only pattern I can come up with is that cel usually comes on when I'm driving home after a weekend away and after I've filled up with a new tank of gas. Here at home I fill up with ethanol free 91 octane. So wondering if it's the change between fuel types that is causing it.
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      07-07-2014, 01:31 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Asianoak View Post
That's interesting. The codes and cel always shows up after the cars has been driving for a long time. So this past weekend I went out of town for about a three hour drive... Great whole drive there... No issues entire time I was gone ( which is when I happened to talk to my indie) then on drive home after a particularly spirited run through some mountain curves, but after coasting with cruise control for about ten minutes on a long downhill is when the cel came on. Only pattern I can come up with is that cel usually comes on when I'm driving home after a weekend away and after I've filled up with a new tank of gas. Here at home I fill up with ethanol free 91 octane. So wondering if it's the change between fuel types that is causing it.
I'm having a CEL as well that seems to come and go randomly... my car spent most of its live in Cali, with 91 oct... we have 92 here in WA state. I'm going to pull the codes tonight but I have a feeling it's something along these lines as well.
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      07-07-2014, 11:26 PM   #17
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yeah i run 95 in mine.. i did have the banks(codes) on when i put it in for service after pulling it out of the garage after that summer, and its quite possible they replaced my MAF without telling me.. (yeah i know.. dont ask ;-)

then afdter that service i took it for a very spirited run and checked the codes about a week later.. all clear..
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      07-08-2014, 12:21 AM   #18
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So possibly replaced the maf huh? I did originally have a maf code, wondering if that could be part of the issue. Seems like when it comes to rich codes there isn't a whole lot of definitive information out there.
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      07-08-2014, 08:12 PM   #19
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I was able to snag a brand new Bosch maf sensor off eBay for $100 last week. Car had the rough idle, dipping idle, stalling and ses light. Torque app showed 0.0 reading from the sensor when plugged in. New maf and the car is like brand new again!
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      07-09-2014, 11:11 PM   #20
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That's encouraging to hear... Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and go straight for the maf then. Thanks for the feedback.
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      07-10-2014, 03:49 PM   #21
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What's the consensus on cleaning them annually with CRC cleaner? I've read that if you wait to clean them until they throw a code then you're too late.
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      07-10-2014, 04:34 PM   #22
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You know personally I don't see any issue with cleaning on a regular basis so long as you do so in the appropriate manner. As for waiting till it throws a code being too late.... I think that depends on the situation. On my old 3 series it threw codes after three years and dealer swore MAF needed to be replaced... quick cleaning and it was fine. But apparently with my Z that isn't the case. That doesn't mean somebody that throws a code shouldn't try cleaning before replacing.
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