Oil pan woes....

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by SCHMOUPE

Are we supposed to smoke out of that thing or extract the oil with?

yeah, it does rather look like that.

I just ordered the Mityvac 7300.
I found a tech bulletin on their web site that they have changed the gasket that was the cause of air leaks.

[dc_wright]

I've got the topsider oil extractor and have been happy with it.

http://www.amazon.com/America-5060-T...de+oil+changer

[SCHMOUPE]

Originally Posted by dc_wright

I've got the topsider oil extractor and have been happy with it.

http://www.amazon.com/America-5060-T...de+oil+changer

I really like how simple it is (less points of failure). Just curious, how do you empty it?

[SCHMOUPE]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

yeah, it does rather look like that.

I just ordered the Mityvac 7300.
I found a tech bulletin on their web site that they have changed the gasket that was the cause of air leaks.

Let us know how it works. I don't like shlepping the compressor out though.

[Daemonblitz]

I have a topside extractor as well that I use (hand pump, no compressor) so my drain plug hasn't been out for 3 years. I highly recommend it.

[GQM]

I've performed a Timesert fix on a guy's Miata that had stripped spark plug wells. It went fine and held up well. Just take your time and follow the instructions carefully. I'd be extra cautious for shavings getting into the pan. Perhaps have some spare oil to pour in to flush anything around the drain hole out before starting the car. Also greasing the tap will help grab some of the shavings.

[SCHMOUPE]

Originally Posted by GQM

I've performed a Timesert fix on a guy's Miata that had stripped spark plug wells. It went fine and held up well. Just take your time and follow the instructions carefully. I'd be extra cautious for shavings getting into the pan. Perhaps have some spare oil to pour in to flush anything around the drain hole out before starting the car. Also greasing the tap will help grab some of the shavings.

all great points, I am planning on doing it very slowly in order to minimize the shavings. planning on using some kind of grease on the bits and will do an oil flush to get the shavings out and then fill up.

question for experts, I am planning on flushing the system with some oil to get rid of the shavings after repair. Should I use 10w60 for the purposes of flushing? Or can i get away with some other oil (cheaper)? I am planning on pouring from the top and let it drain from the bottom without turning the engine over. Is this the best way to go forward?

[GQM]

For the sake of not mixing weights and possibly detergents, I personally would just flush with the 10w60. However, I am just overly anal like that.

[Reborn_]

Originally Posted by GQM

For the sake of not mixing weights and possibly detergents, I personally would just flush with the 10w60. However, I am just overly anal like that.

Ditto. You would save what, 100$ tops for 5 qts of cheap stuff vs. 5 qts of 10w60? I would eat that 100$ personally.

[SCHMOUPE]

Originally Posted by Reborn_

Ditto. You would save what, 100$ tops for 5 qts of cheap stuff vs. 5 qts of 10w60? I would eat that 100$ personally.

Thanks guys for the input. I have about 11 QTs of 10w60. Should be enough for a flush and a clean refill.

[Reborn_]

That'll do it. Good luck and please keep us updated.

[StickMon]

Call me nuts, but after reading this I'm tempted to install a ball valve.

[SCHMOUPE]

Originally Posted by StickMon

Call me nuts, but after reading this I'm tempted to install a ball valve.

Attachment 1189842

Attachment 1189844

Doesn't that stick out too far under the car? I would be concerned about damaging it while driving.

[Reborn_]

Ya, I wouldn't do a ball valve. I'd be paranoid of a rock or something opening the valve, or as alluded to above, a rock hitting the valve and breaking it off.

[StickMon]

Yea, that's my concern, too.
I might try and map it out with an elbow and see how low it goes.
It would work if I could keep it above the reinforcement plate.

[fdagen]

Interesting thought. I am surprised car manufacturers haven't done anything here. The ball valve would actually work. There is a undertray and a access port that would protect it on the M. You would just have to look at how much space is required. There may be enough room to allow for something like this.

[Taylorguy74]

Originally Posted by fdagen

Interesting thought. I am surprised car manufacturers haven't done anything here. The ball valve would actually work. There is a undertray and a access port that would protect it on the M. You would just have to look at how much space is required. There may be enough room to allow for something like this.

Fumoto drain valve - it has a spring pressured locking notch on it as to not open unexpectedly -
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2208993/?...FQqGaQodWy0ACw

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by Taylorguy74

Fumoto drain valve - it has a spring pressured locking notch on it as to not open unexpectedly -
http://www.ecstuning.com/ES2208993/?...FQqGaQodWy0ACw

I tried one of these on my G35.
JMO but I didn't trust it.

[Taylorguy74]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

I tried one of these on my G35.
JMO but I didn't trust it.

Yeah, I'd be a little paranoid about it myself. I don't use one, but have thought about trying one out before. I just could never pull the trigger.

[StickMon]

I figured somebody already thought of this.
That's why I don't have any patents.
Still grappling with the pickle matrix .. GOYVEN!!

Looks like they have several options in an M12-1.5 that look short enough not to stick much below the reinforcement plate.

Pulled the trigger.
Got one for the Wife's truck, too.

[SCHMOUPE]

For anyone interested in my saga, I finally got everything together and attempted the thread fix this morning. Excited to say it all went perfectly smooth. I managed to snap a few pics along the way. Maybe sometime next week I will sit down and do a proper DIY thread. I am also going to sell my time sert kit.

[inTgr8r]

That's good news, I'm glad to hear it went well.