Basic tools thread

[fighting_fish]

When I was a teenager, I used to really enjoy wrenching on cars. It helped that my uncle was a mechanic so I could usually convince him to help me out on the difficult repairs. Then I moved to a city where owning a car was not only ridiculous expensive ($350 parking) but pretty much unnecessary.

Fast forward 10 years, I moved and finally have some space. I have no tools, so instead of paying someone to do an oil change I can put that money towards tools. Car is at 55k miles, so I after oil next steps would be to change the diff/trans fluids at 60k. After that I'm not sure if I could tackle the Inspection I. If you have suggestions on what projects to tackle, I'm all ears.

I have lots of questions, so here goes:

1. Is there any way to tell how much is left until the next oil change? When I turn on the car the SII says 9k miles until Inspection I; is there any way to flip it to oil?

2. Consensus seems to be to change the oil early (7.5k, some people do it even earlier). Does one reset the oil interval? There are some threads that seem to indicate this will mess up the SII and make it do inspections early. I would guess that the best may be to change the oil mid-way between service intervals, then do it when it says to and reset (since it's aprox 15k in the SII, so it'd end up at 7.5k).

3. What tools would you buy?

I'm considering some chocks and 56" Race Ramps (not sure if one piece or two, anyone have opinions?).

I don't mind paying a little more for tools that I can keep forever. I imagine that at the least I need a ratchet set and a set of Torx. Any recommendations of types, brands, etc. is appreciated.

Any tools that I should buy specifically for oil, diff, trans change?

4. Where do you buy your oil + filters? I'll probably stick with BMW brand. Part numbers are appreciated if you have them handy.

5. Is doing Inspection I myself doable? I found a checklist on this thread for 2004:

<http://wwww.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331562>

Is there a better checklist to follow?

I think that's it for now. Sorry about the long thread and thanks for all your help. I did search the forums and found lots of good info, so apologies if this all has been covered at some point.

[Hawkeye]

I know the 56" race ramps come in 1 piece and 2 piece configurations so that part is up to you

Also, the Inspection countdown is the same as Oil countdown when it says inspection. (Inspections every 30K I believe according to the SII and the oilchanges are every 15K). Most people definitely do sooner, like 5K or 7.5K as that is the best shown by a few members on here that do Blackstone oil analysis.

If you are wondering about some instals and tools used I think whr3 does a great writeup... let me see if I can find his page. http://www.billswebspace.com/bmwmc.htm

[ANUSTART]

1. Is there any way to tell how much is left until the next oil change? When I turn on the car the SII says 9k miles until Inspection I; is there any way to flip it to oil?

I try to do mine every 5 so that's not hard to remember. It was at 9k when I got it so I'm changing at 15k. The recommendation is 15k or every year by BMW if I remember right.


3. What tools would you buy?

I have always used Craftsman. Easy to get, not very expensive and they have a good replacement policy IF you do break one. However, not likely to happen. Some love Snap-on and some of the other high end brands but I'd rather not spend 2-5x the price of a Craftsman. I'm a value buyer. That' just my opinion. If I had unlimited resources I'd probably go get a huge Snap-on set with that big name all over the place for some motorhead street-cred.

As for a toolbox, get a nice set of Torx sockets, a set of metric hex sockets, a basic 3/8" metric ratchet and wrench set, a couple 3/8" extensions, various screwdrivers and a good hammer and duck tape if all else fails.

I don't mind paying a little more for tools that I can keep forever. I imagine that at the least I need a ratchet set and a set of Torx. Any recommendations of types, brands, etc. is appreciated.

Any tools that I should buy specifically for oil, diff, trans change? All the above should get you through most basic repairs and maintenance.

4. Where do you buy your oil + filters? I'll probably stick with BMW brand. Part numbers are appreciated if you have them handy.

In the past I've used Mobile1 and Fram filters, but for the BMW I would get the factory filter. You can get them in bulk from Tischer pretty cheap. Less than $10 each but make a big order to make the minimum $15 shipping worth it. My vote is for the ZHP shift knob.

5. Is doing Inspection I myself doable?

I leave the big inspections for the pros figuring they'll see things my novice eye won't.

[fighting_fish]

@hawkeye: Yeah I was leaning towards getting the 2 piece 56" race ramps, but wanted to know if anyone that had them had an opinion either way.

Thanks for the info, I didn't get that the Inspection includes an oil change. So as long as I do it when it has 7.5k to go, I'll be doing it every 7.5k instead of the 15k that bmw recommends.

Thanks for finding wh3s page, tons of great info on that link

@hogzilla: Good info. I agree that I don't need to have the fanciest tools available, just some good ones that'll last a long time.

Also I'm with you on the duck tape! I had a buddy that always said: "Everything in the world can be fixed with duck tape or WD-40. If it moves, but shouldn't: apply duck tape, if it doesn't move and should, apply WD-40."

So for basic toolbox:
- Torx sockets.
- Metric hex sockets.
- 3/8" metric ratchet and wrench set.
- 3/8" extensions.
- Misc screwdrivers.

Anyone else have opinions of brands, tools, etc? Anything that you wish you had known before you started?

Had to do a little fix today. The little door above the cigarette lighter was not staying open. Was able to take it apart, pull it out and figure out that there was a pin missing in the mechanism. Went back to the car, was lucky enough to find the pin and tada, all is well

[a_riddler]

I'd like to pass along the doc I got from Jim Millet when I got my Z4MC. It was a great help to me and I'm only glad to pass it along.

Thanks again Jim!!!

BMW E86 TOOL LIST


With the tools outlined in this list, you will be able to perform the following maintenance to your car:
Remove/Install Wheels
Bleed Brakes
Replace Brake Pads
Replace Rotors
Oil Changes
Transmission Fluid Changes
Differential Fluid Changes
Coolant Changes
Spark Plug Replacement

Getting the Car off of the Ground:

One Floor Jack
Two Wheel Chocks
Two Ramps
Four Jack Stands
www.unofficialbmw.com/ronstygar.html is the home of Ron Stygar's great site, and his de-facto report on how to properly jack up your car. Please read it before attempting to jack up your car!

Wheel Install/Removal

1/2" Drive Torque Wrench, 30ft/lbs.-150ft/lbs. range (40Nm-200Nm)
1/2" Breaker Bar
1/2" Drive, 17mm Deep 6pt Socket
Most wheels need to be torqued down to 120 Nm, plus or minus 10 Nm (that’s 89ft/lbs. optimal). The breaker bar will come in handy later on when you need to break the major torque on brake caliper holders. With a 1/2" to 3/8" fitting, the breaker bar allows you to deal with high torque applications, and it will adapt the torque wrench to all these needs also.

Bleeding Brakes

One 9mm box end wrench
Container for catching brake fluid that comes out of the caliper
Power Bleeder from www.motiveproducts.com
 

Replacing Brake Pads/Rotors

1/2" to 3/8" adapter (for fitting sockets to the breaker bar)
16mm 6pt shallow socket
7mm Allen © hex bit 3/8"
6mm Allen © hex bit 3/8"
3/8" Ratchet
3 inch 3/8" extension
Big Flat Head Screwdriver
Flat nose pliers
Disc brake pad spreader, KD 3376
If you have the calipers off in order to do a pad change, you’re only the 6mm hex fastener away from taking the rotor off while you’re at it. The two 16mm bolts that hold on the caliper brackets are a real PITA to get off, which is where the breaker bar comes in handy. With the 1/2">3/8" coupler, you can smoothly apply plenty of torque.

Oil/Transmission/Differential Fluid Changes

3/8" ratchet
6mm 3/8" Allen© socket for oil drain plug
14mm 3/8ths Allen© socket for the differential plugs
8mm 3/8ths Allen© socket for transmission plugs
Sharp curved pick, for getting off pesky 0-rings and used crush washers
Sta-Lube Fluid Oil Pump: NAPA # 4344
For the metal oil filter housing: 13mm 3/8" socket and 3 inch 3/8" extension
For the plastic oil filter housing: 36mm ½” socket

Coolant Changes

19mm Combination Wrench
Big Flat Bladed Screwdriver
Good sized Phillips © head screwdriver
Coolant Catch Pan

Spark Plug Changes

1/4" ratchet and 3/8” ratchet
8mm shallow socket for the coil hold-down nuts
universal joint
1/4" extension
16mm Spark plug socket (long)
3/8" torque wrench with a 10Nm-50Nm range.

[santov]

Originally Posted by a_riddler

I'd like to pass along the doc I got from Jim Millet when I got my Z4MC. It was a great help to me and I'm only glad to pass it along.

Thanks for that list!


1. Is there any way to tell how much is left until the next oil change? When I turn on the car the SII says 9k miles until Inspection I; is there any way to flip it to oil?

The computer ESTIMATES the mileage between services based on 600 gallons of fuel. If you burn 600 gallons doing mostly track time the mileage will come sooner. The dealer only offers Oil Change, Inspection I and Inspection II. Prices vary, plus the stealers try to attach all the add-ons such as power steering flushes, fuel injection services etc.


2. Consensus seems to be to change the oil early (7.5k, some people do it even earlier). Does one reset the oil interval? There are some threads that seem to indicate this will mess up the SII and make it do inspections early. I would guess that the best may be to change the oil mid-way between service intervals, then do it when it says to and reset (since it's aprox 15k in the SII, so it'd end up at 7.5k).

Usually the dealer does NOT reset the service computer when performing an oil change only, but it sometimes happens and can erroneously extend the next Inspection out (sometimes beyond the covered "free" maintenance). Undoing this is difficult and frustrating.

Since you're out of "free" maintenance period I'd suggest you do an inspection II and replace all the consumable items:
oil & filter
air filter
cabin filter
plugs
coolant
tranny (not sure if you're manual or auto)
diff

That's pretty much an Inspection II.

3. What tools would you buy?

That list was perfect. I'm a fan of Craftsman. I bought one of the $700 sets and it came with almost every socket in the universe, plus a ton of hand tools. I bought a $400 costco stainless steel toolbox and it works great. Of course I've added some speciality tools along the way, but I'm pretty much set for life now. I know Snap-On and Matco make better quality but the prices really go through the roof. I have yet to break any of my Craftsman tools, but if/when I do I walk in and out of Sears.


4. Where do you buy your oil + filters? I'll probably stick with BMW brand. Part numbers are appreciated if you have them handy.

I looked high and low for oil filters and the local parts stores didn't stock or have any. Since I'm in my warranty period I wanted to stay with OEM parts and NOT risk any complications should something go wrong at the dealer. www.BavAuto.com and Tisher www.getbmwparts.com are the best in terms of prices. The prices of our OEM filters is higher than other generic brands, but the Mann filters come with new crush washer for the oil plug and orings for the oil filter housing.

Oil is a huge topic with endless opinions; here's mine:
Stock BMW OEM synthetic oil is rebranded Castrol Synthetic. It's a GREAT oil, but Mobil1 0w-40 is even more amazing, is cheaper and is available at WalMart. I did an oil analysis here on the OEM oil and plan on doing another on the Mobil1. Based on my commuter driving I'm planning on doing oil changes every ~5k, and the dealer will do the 3rd oil change free under warranty.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...36#Post2137536

I also changed my coolant and wrote a DIY:
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthre...81#post8903381

I also changed my tranny ATF fluid:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...05#Post2145505



5. Is doing Inspection I myself doable? I found a checklist on this thread for 2004:

<http://wwww.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331562>

^^ Yep that's what the dealer uses. I'd say at 55k miles just do it all, it will be a good learning experience and you'll get a feel for what to do next time.

If you're in NorCal Bay Area let me know and we can meet up. My garage is open to family!

[fighting_fish]

Excellent thread guys, thanks so much for all the contributions.

@a_riddler: Thanks so much for sharing that, excellent guide.

@santov: You are the man, thanks so much. I think I'm going to take your advice and do everything, might as well keep the car in as perfect condition as I can (at some point I'm going to sell it to upgrade to an M), and learn while I'm at it. I will definitely take you up on your offer for some of the more difficult maintenance, having a more experienced person will save me tons of time and frustration. Thanks again!

[fighting_fish]

Actually I had one more question: What are the best books/guides to get?

Back in the day when I worked on Land Cruisers, there were 3 books: the toyota chassis and body book, the toyota engine book, and then a third party book that covered everything. Between these 3 you could always figure out what you needed to do (the toyota ones were more exact but more terse, the third party one told you lots of tips and gotchas). Is there similar resources for the Z4?

[jdl1pt]

Originally Posted by santov

3. What tools would you buy?

That list was perfect. I'm a fan of Craftsman. I bought one of the $700 sets and it came with almost every socket in the universe, plus a ton of hand tools. I bought a $400 costco stainless steel toolbox and it works great. Of course I've added some speciality tools along the way, but I'm pretty much set for life now. I know Snap-On and Matco make better quality but the prices really go through the roof. I have yet to break any of my Craftsman tools, but if/when I do I walk in and out of Sears.


If you're in NorCal Bay Area let me know and we can meet up. My garage is open to family!

Great list all, it will be a big help when moving out of warrantee coverage.

+1 for Craftsman tools. My father had a a socket break on him a few years back. The thing must have been 40 years old...I believe it was his fathers. We walk into Sears together and he hands the broken socket to an employee. The employee goes to the shelf, picks out a new one, hands it to my father, and we walk out, no questions asked. Hard to imaging "lifetime" actually meaning "lifetime" these days, but when it comes to Craftsman hand tools it's just that. Now their power tools...that's a completely different story.

To the OP, and anyone in the bay area. I bought a pressure bleeder earlier this year and if anyone needs to borrow one, let me know. It gets used infrequently, I'm happy to share and save folks a few bucks.

[ANUSTART]

Originally Posted by jdl1pt

Now their power tools...that's a completely different story.

Amen to that!

@a_riddler & santov, great info!

[Hawkeye]

This thread has blown up with some great info I haven't seen before, this should possibly become sticky...

[fighting_fish]

@hawkeye: Eventually I wanted to take pics of all of this and compile the data together to make a sticky.

And to answer my own question about manuals, it seems that all you can get is the TIS DVD (there's an older 500MB file floating around, but you want the new DVD). Best way to get the TIS DVD is to pay about 10-15 bucks and get it off ebay.

There's an online version here, missing a few parts and doesn't cover the M Roadster (although you could look at the M3 for some of it):
http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/

If you need help running TIS on a non Windows computer, seems that Wine works well for the Linux and Mac people:
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=364274

[Shipkiller]

There is also my site for some more info:

www.shipkiller.com

[santov]

Originally Posted by Shipkiller

There is also my site for some more info:

www.shipkiller.com

Thanks shipkiller for the diligence! I read your entire website before I bought my Z4 so I'd have a good idea what I was getting into. Please keep up the good work!

[Shipkiller]

I have not adding anything to the site in a while. I may have to add Jmillets E86 Tools list to the site. That way it won't go away...

[dekaliber]

This thread should definitely be a sticky.

I have the single piece Race Ramps and they work well. There isn't a ton of clearance but I was able to change the transmission mounts and replace some front-end pieces without much trouble. An oil change should be no problem. I was going to tackle that this weekend but I needed an alignment so I just got the shop to do it. (They actually did it for a few bucks less than I would have had to spend at Tischer to get the kit.)

Picture of car on ramps in this thread:
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=422075

[a_riddler]

Worth mentioning that Race Ramps > Gorilla ramps. The Gorilla ramps aren't long enough to get the front end up without scrapping the fangs. Spend the extra bucks and get the longer ramps so you don't have to jury-rig some boards clear the ramp.

Lesson learned...