ZPOST
BMW Garage BMW Meets Register Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read


Go Back   ZPOST > BMW Z4 Roadster and Coupe > General BMW Z4 Forum
  TireRack

SUPPORT ZPOST BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER, THANKS!
Post Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
      03-18-2010, 09:51 AM   #23
G80indy
Save the Manuals
G80indy's Avatar
United_States
1710
Rep
2,937
Posts

Drives: Z3, E46, G80
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Indy

iTrader: (0)

"jragan"
that's a shame you had to experience the pain of the broken bolts due to a slacker dealer. Is your ride tight now since it did get the fix?
__________________
2023 G80 6MT, CCBs
2002 330i Dinan, 5MT
2000 Z3 Conforti, 5MT
Appreciate 0
      03-18-2010, 10:54 AM   #24
chickdr
Lieutenant Colonel
140
Rep
1,987
Posts

Drives: 2006 M Roadster
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Buford, GA

iTrader: (0)

I wonder why BMW didn't just quietly issue a TSB to replace the bolts when the cars come in for service. If they used the upgraded bolts, the issue goes away and I can't imagine many owners not coming on the board to pat BMWNA on the back for taking care of the issue proactively. It isn't as if it would cost much for them to replace the bolts...

I asked about the SIB on mine last year and they "told me" the bolts were checked and were fine. Who knows if they really did...
Appreciate 0
      03-18-2010, 03:05 PM   #25
Ron Stygar
Lieutenant
9
Rep
421
Posts

Drives: 2006 Z4 M Coupe
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: USA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by chickdr View Post
I wonder why BMW didn't just quietly issue a TSB to replace the bolts when the cars come in for service. If they used the upgraded bolts, the issue goes away and I can't imagine many owners not coming on the board to pat BMWNA on the back for taking care of the issue proactively. It isn't as if it would cost much for them to replace the bolts...

I asked about the SIB on mine last year and they "told me" the bolts were checked and were fine. Who knows if they really did...
Bulletin:

Appreciate 0
      03-18-2010, 03:19 PM   #26
lucid
Major General
lucid's Avatar
United_States
374
Rep
8,033
Posts

Drives: E30 M3; Expedition
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: USA

iTrader: (0)

Thanks for the bulletin. That would be #10 and #3 in the following diagram. I assume you need to access these from below after removing the covers? Anyone know the torque specs? I'd like to check, but I don't feel like taking it to the dealer and losing half a day.

Name:  engine mount.png
Views: 372
Size:  42.2 KB

http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E8...ne_suspension/
__________________
Appreciate 0
      03-18-2010, 07:14 PM   #27
AWM3
BMW Fan
AWM3's Avatar
11
Rep
553
Posts

Drives: 2012 E92 M3, Alpine White
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Georgia, USA

iTrader: (0)

Four of the eight bolts are impossible to check without major disassembly of parts.

This was my DIY for replacing the bolts that I posted on a different forum last year:

The car needs to be up on jackstands with the plastic belly pan under the radiator removed and also the aluminum belly pan under the engine removed. Rather than separate the two pieces of the aluminum belly pan, just leave them attached together and remove as a unit. Both front wheels should also be off the car.

Access to the passenger side is easier than the drivers side. The front two passenger side bolts are the longer ones. To get to them, you must undo and remove the fastening bolt that holds the VANOS accumulator bracket around the accumulator. Also it will be easier if you remove the attachment of the ground wire at the engine just next to the VANOS accumulator. After doing this, you can just push the VANOS accumulator up and out of the way, it is on a flexible hose. You now have fairly easy access to the two front engine mount bolts on the passenger side. The two rear bolts will also be fairly easy to get to from underneath the car with the aluminum pan removed.

On the driver's side, the two rear bolts are easier than the front. There is an electrical connector in front of the upper bolt that blocks access; look at this carefully so you can see how it detaches and then remove the electrical connector to get access to the bolt. The drivers side bolts must be worked on from above. The lower rear bolt is pretty easy but the upper rear bolt is not visible and you have to work by feel - you cannot actually see what you are doing. Remember to replace the electrical connector when finished.

The front drivers side bolts are the most difficult. I was able to gain access by removing the complete air filter box (upper and lower sections) along with the curved plastic pipe that attaches to the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold itself. It also helps to remove the bolts holding the power steering fluid reservoir so that it can be pushed slightly out of the way. After removing these parts, you can use a very long extension and a socket to loosen the engine mount bolts. A magnet on a long wand will hep with pulling the bolts out, because you may not be able to get your fingers in there. Similarly, you can use the magnet wand to carefully place the new bolts in the empty hole, and then use your long extension and socket to tighten the bolts. Then reassemble and you are done.
Appreciate 0
      03-19-2010, 02:48 PM   #28
lucid
Major General
lucid's Avatar
United_States
374
Rep
8,033
Posts

Drives: E30 M3; Expedition
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: USA

iTrader: (0)

Thanks for the DIY on this. Can you clarify what you mean by "front" vs. "rear" bolts? Is it #10 => front; #3 => rear?
__________________
Appreciate 0
      03-20-2010, 05:54 AM   #29
AWM3
BMW Fan
AWM3's Avatar
11
Rep
553
Posts

Drives: 2012 E92 M3, Alpine White
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Georgia, USA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by lucid View Post
Thanks for the DIY on this. Can you clarify what you mean by "front" vs. "rear" bolts? Is it #10 => front; #3 => rear?
Front as in toward the front of the car, rear as in toward the rear of the car. Upper as in closer to the sky, lower as in closer to the ground.
Appreciate 0
      03-20-2010, 08:25 AM   #30
lucid
Major General
lucid's Avatar
United_States
374
Rep
8,033
Posts

Drives: E30 M3; Expedition
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: USA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by car62 View Post
Front as in toward the front of the car, rear as in toward the rear of the car. Upper as in closer to the sky, lower as in closer to the ground.
I was talking about the diagram as front and rear are not labeled there.
__________________
Appreciate 0
      03-20-2010, 09:42 AM   #31
chickdr
Lieutenant Colonel
140
Rep
1,987
Posts

Drives: 2006 M Roadster
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Buford, GA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post
Bulletin:
SIB 22 01 09
I asked about the SIB on a service visit and all they did was "say" they checked it out and all was well. I would have liked them to go ahead and replace the bolts with the higher spec versions as it is likely to happen at some point even if it is fine today. This should have been done for free as they know about the issue.

Last edited by chickdr; 03-22-2010 at 01:47 PM..
Appreciate 0
      03-20-2010, 01:07 PM   #32
AWM3
BMW Fan
AWM3's Avatar
11
Rep
553
Posts

Drives: 2012 E92 M3, Alpine White
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Georgia, USA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by chickdr View Post
I asked about the SIB on a service visit and all they did was "say" they checked it out and all was well. I would like them to go ahead and replace the bolts with the higher spec versions as it is likely to happen at some point even if it is fine today. This should be done for free as they know about the issue.
That's a fine thought but I doubt that you will succeed with your friendly BMW dealer service department in that request. The SIB refers to bolts that have failed; it doesn't include preventive maintenance on bolts that MIGHT fail at some future date. There was a very vocal debate on a different forum last year with engineers and all sorts of self styled "experts" weighing in on the subject, and I was ridiculed for my contention that the design is marginally engineered and prone to failure. Strangely, BMW had more defenders than accusers, and there seemed to be a gullible belief that this alleged "heat exposure" caused these failures. I personally think that is total BS, which BMW has been known to perpetrate in the past when they screw up and don't want to admit it. The argument used by the opposition was that these are the same engine mounts used in the E46 M3, and they don't have a problem. My argument was that inferior parts and workmanship in Spartanburg took a marginally engineered system over the edge into a failure prone system. I think that history has proven me to be at least partially correct. Anyway, forget about the dealer. They won't help you unless you have broken or loose bolts. Replace them yourself with higher grade bolts using the DIY I posted above. If this is beyond the level that you want to work on a car, take it to a race shop of which there are several excellent ones in the Atlanta area. Or, just to be nice (which I don't get any credit for usually), send me a PM and we can arrange a day when you can drive down to my house (about 1 1/2 hours from Atlanta) and I will replace them for you. I have plenty of spare bolts since I had to buy them in bulk from McMaster Carr.

Last edited by AWM3; 03-20-2010 at 01:15 PM..
Appreciate 0
      03-22-2010, 10:20 AM   #33
chickdr
Lieutenant Colonel
140
Rep
1,987
Posts

Drives: 2006 M Roadster
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Buford, GA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by car62 View Post
That's a fine thought but I doubt that you will succeed with your friendly BMW dealer service department in that request. The SIB refers to bolts that have failed; it doesn't include preventive maintenance on bolts that MIGHT fail at some future date. There was a very vocal debate on a different forum last year with engineers and all sorts of self styled "experts" weighing in on the subject, and I was ridiculed for my contention that the design is marginally engineered and prone to failure. Strangely, BMW had more defenders than accusers, and there seemed to be a gullible belief that this alleged "heat exposure" caused these failures. I personally think that is total BS, which BMW has been known to perpetrate in the past when they screw up and don't want to admit it. The argument used by the opposition was that these are the same engine mounts used in the E46 M3, and they don't have a problem. My argument was that inferior parts and workmanship in Spartanburg took a marginally engineered system over the edge into a failure prone system. I think that history has proven me to be at least partially correct. Anyway, forget about the dealer. They won't help you unless you have broken or loose bolts. Replace them yourself with higher grade bolts using the DIY I posted above. If this is beyond the level that you want to work on a car, take it to a race shop of which there are several excellent ones in the Atlanta area. Or, just to be nice (which I don't get any credit for usually), send me a PM and we can arrange a day when you can drive down to my house (about 1 1/2 hours from Atlanta) and I will replace them for you. I have plenty of spare bolts since I had to buy them in bulk from McMaster Carr.
I have no illusions about BMW stepping up to the plate and taking care of the bolt issue - I just happen to agree with you that the OEM bolts are likely failure prone and they should have done a replacement on all Z4M's. I appreciate the offer and may just take you up on it as I do not have the proper gear to do the work at my home.
Appreciate 0
      03-22-2010, 01:22 PM   #34
Blind32
Certified Adrenaline Junkie
Blind32's Avatar
United_States
41
Rep
1,325
Posts

Drives: '07 Z4MC
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dallas TX

iTrader: (2)

Thank you all for providing the information. I will definitely have this checked by my trusted Tech. If he can't source the bolts, I may buy a few off of you car62, if that's alright.
Appreciate 0
      03-22-2010, 10:55 PM   #35
Ron Stygar
Lieutenant
9
Rep
421
Posts

Drives: 2006 Z4 M Coupe
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: USA

iTrader: (0)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blind32 View Post
Thank you all for providing the information. I will definitely have this checked by my trusted Tech. If he can't source the bolts, I may buy a few off of you car62, if that's alright.
You can purchase the BMW 10.9 MotorSport ones separately.

If you want to use BMW MotorSport Z4 uses the following:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ght=motorsport

Screw 07 11 9 913 653 $0.47r
Screw 07 11 9 913 673 $0.62r
Washer 07 11 9 903 078 $0.35r

Appreciate 0
Post Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:32 AM.




zpost
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
1Addicts.com, BIMMERPOST.com, E90Post.com, F30Post.com, M3Post.com, ZPost.com, 5Post.com, 6Post.com, 7Post.com, XBimmers.com logo and trademark are properties of BIMMERPOST