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03-18-2010, 09:51 AM | #23 |
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"jragan"
that's a shame you had to experience the pain of the broken bolts due to a slacker dealer. Is your ride tight now since it did get the fix?
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03-18-2010, 10:54 AM | #24 |
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I wonder why BMW didn't just quietly issue a TSB to replace the bolts when the cars come in for service. If they used the upgraded bolts, the issue goes away and I can't imagine many owners not coming on the board to pat BMWNA on the back for taking care of the issue proactively. It isn't as if it would cost much for them to replace the bolts...
I asked about the SIB on mine last year and they "told me" the bolts were checked and were fine. Who knows if they really did... |
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03-18-2010, 03:05 PM | #25 | |
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03-18-2010, 03:19 PM | #26 |
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Thanks for the bulletin. That would be #10 and #3 in the following diagram. I assume you need to access these from below after removing the covers? Anyone know the torque specs? I'd like to check, but I don't feel like taking it to the dealer and losing half a day.
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E8...ne_suspension/
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03-18-2010, 07:14 PM | #27 |
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Four of the eight bolts are impossible to check without major disassembly of parts.
This was my DIY for replacing the bolts that I posted on a different forum last year: The car needs to be up on jackstands with the plastic belly pan under the radiator removed and also the aluminum belly pan under the engine removed. Rather than separate the two pieces of the aluminum belly pan, just leave them attached together and remove as a unit. Both front wheels should also be off the car. Access to the passenger side is easier than the drivers side. The front two passenger side bolts are the longer ones. To get to them, you must undo and remove the fastening bolt that holds the VANOS accumulator bracket around the accumulator. Also it will be easier if you remove the attachment of the ground wire at the engine just next to the VANOS accumulator. After doing this, you can just push the VANOS accumulator up and out of the way, it is on a flexible hose. You now have fairly easy access to the two front engine mount bolts on the passenger side. The two rear bolts will also be fairly easy to get to from underneath the car with the aluminum pan removed. On the driver's side, the two rear bolts are easier than the front. There is an electrical connector in front of the upper bolt that blocks access; look at this carefully so you can see how it detaches and then remove the electrical connector to get access to the bolt. The drivers side bolts must be worked on from above. The lower rear bolt is pretty easy but the upper rear bolt is not visible and you have to work by feel - you cannot actually see what you are doing. Remember to replace the electrical connector when finished. The front drivers side bolts are the most difficult. I was able to gain access by removing the complete air filter box (upper and lower sections) along with the curved plastic pipe that attaches to the intake manifold. It is not necessary to remove the intake manifold itself. It also helps to remove the bolts holding the power steering fluid reservoir so that it can be pushed slightly out of the way. After removing these parts, you can use a very long extension and a socket to loosen the engine mount bolts. A magnet on a long wand will hep with pulling the bolts out, because you may not be able to get your fingers in there. Similarly, you can use the magnet wand to carefully place the new bolts in the empty hole, and then use your long extension and socket to tighten the bolts. Then reassemble and you are done. |
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03-20-2010, 05:54 AM | #29 |
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03-20-2010, 08:25 AM | #30 |
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I was talking about the diagram as front and rear are not labeled there.
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03-20-2010, 09:42 AM | #31 |
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I asked about the SIB on a service visit and all they did was "say" they checked it out and all was well. I would have liked them to go ahead and replace the bolts with the higher spec versions as it is likely to happen at some point even if it is fine today. This should have been done for free as they know about the issue.
Last edited by chickdr; 03-22-2010 at 01:47 PM.. |
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03-20-2010, 01:07 PM | #32 | |
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Last edited by AWM3; 03-20-2010 at 01:15 PM.. |
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03-22-2010, 10:20 AM | #33 | |
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03-22-2010, 01:22 PM | #34 |
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Thank you all for providing the information. I will definitely have this checked by my trusted Tech. If he can't source the bolts, I may buy a few off of you car62, if that's alright.
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03-22-2010, 10:55 PM | #35 | |
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If you want to use BMW MotorSport Z4 uses the following: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ght=motorsport Screw 07 11 9 913 653 $0.47r Screw 07 11 9 913 673 $0.62r Washer 07 11 9 903 078 $0.35r |
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