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      08-27-2017, 09:21 PM   #1
AustinMsport
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Would you buy a Z4 with 180K?

Hey guys looking for some input on an 06 Z4 roadster 3.0si automatic that I'm thinking about buying. I'm semi-serious about this. It has 180K miles Local dealer down the street has had it for quite a while. I think they were asking 8K a while ago but it now just says 'call' on their website. I would be majorly low balling on this one.

I can turn a wrench and I'm no stranger to the N52 or BMWs. I've owned several N52s and feel confident in fixing their most common issues (tensioners, oil leaks, water pump, etc). However, I've never owned anything close to having 180K miles on it. I know that 6sp auto is pretty solid from the 328s I've had but 180K! Ugh. Autos don't typically last that long. My theory is if I could get it cheap enough (3-4K??) and nothing went wrong then I could have a fun convertible to putt around in. I would basically maintain it as cheap as possible (i.e no mods) and just enjoy it.

I finally stopped by and looked at it in person today. It's definitely rough around the edges. Needs a good cleaning inside and out. Touch up paint in places. One of the side BMW emblems is gone. I wouldn't go as far as "ragged" but its on its way. Mechanically who knows at this point. I haven't talked with them. I know at that mileage it needs everything....all fluids, shocks, etc. I would be dusting off my ECS Tuning account for sure.

I know little about the E85 (I'm an E9X guy). I did a little research and saw power top motor is an issue and rear springs??

I realize this is a colossally risky situation. I've always liked these and the color combo, wheels, 3IM engine, etc has got me interested and the spectre of a cheap fun car is intriguing.

Thoughts? How stupid is this?
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      08-27-2017, 09:36 PM   #2
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Z4 "automatic" is actually a manual, complete with clutch, operated by hydraulics. Not a slushbox.
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      08-27-2017, 09:51 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdb View Post
Z4 "automatic" is actually a manual, complete with clutch, operated by hydraulics. Not a slushbox.
They only put the SMG in the Z4 for a couple years in pre-facelift cars. Later Z4s got the 6 speed steptronic automatic transmission.

OP, if properly maintained the ZF auto trans can be good for 250K miles. Given the rough condition of the car, properly maintained has not been its experience. As to how big a risk this it, it depends on what you pay for it. For $4K purchase price you've got some room for the cost to get it roadworthy. For $8K I'd definitely pass on this one.
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      08-28-2017, 06:01 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
They only put the SMG in the Z4 for a couple years in pre-facelift cars. Later Z4s got the 6 speed steptronic automatic transmission.
Thanks again for keeping me straight. I keep learning more and more about these cars.
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      08-28-2017, 07:42 AM   #5
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Re the power top motor, check to see that it opens and closes in a smooth and fluid motion. Should take about ten seconds to open and ten to close (I haven't timed mine, just basing that on some BMW promo comments from back in the day).

The issue with the hydraulic top motor is that BMW chose to place it in one of the roof drain passages - not a good idea in hindsight. If that passage gets blocked with leaves and gunk, the motor gets flooded and may corrode and fail. That's about $2K to have the dealer repair - less if you do it yourself. If the top motor on this car has failed, you can still operate the roof manually - disengage the hydraulic system by puling the red handle in the trunk. My buddy had this happen last year and has been happily using the car since without bothering with the repair. There are lots of threads on www.z4-forum.com (a very good UK Z4 forum) about making the repair AND relocating the motor to the trunk to avoid future issues.

Also, the rear dash of the car (behind the roll bars) can be raised to make more cargo space in the trunk. There are two black knobs near the trunk lid hinges that you rotate to raise and lower the panel. Doing this moves the dash panel into the space that would otherwise be occupied by the lowered roof. So - guess what? When the panel is raised, the roof won't lower. If this car's roof won't lower, check that the panel hasn't been raised and try rotating those two knobs to lower it and see if the roof works.

And if the roof IS working A-OK, you need to press the little roof down button and KEEP holding it until the little red LED on the dash turns off. So, press the button - after a second or so, both side windows drop to half way, the top should unlatch and lower, the windows will come back up. Then the red LED turns off and you can take your finger of the button.

And my 3.0si does have a proper automatic transmission - no complicated SMG unit.

Good luck!
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      08-28-2017, 05:52 PM   #6
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What's wrong with the rear springs? Haven't heard that one before...
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      08-28-2017, 05:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thrak410 View Post
What's wrong with the rear springs? Haven't heard that one before...
There are a number of posts where one of the rear springs has had a piece of the rear coil spring break off of the spring. Seems to be more a characteristic of rust belt cars, so corrosion might be a factor.....
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      08-28-2017, 09:22 PM   #8
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I have an N52 with 330,000 miles on it in my '06 325i. I've driven the shit out of it too. I doubt the N52 will have any issues beyond the normal stuff that you seem well aware of.

I also have an '08 E86, being a coupe it is much more stiff that the roadster, but the roadster is quite stiff as open chassis go, so I doubt at 180K the chassis is bad. I bought my Coupe at 23,000 and it now has 72,000 2.5 years later and I have to say the chassis and interior have held up far better than I expected.

Both my cars are manuals so I can't speak to the auto, but my sister had an '04 X3 that she never did any trans fluid changes until sometime after 140,000 miles (a BG flush) and despite all the hoopla of flushing the trans at that level of mileage, it quite improved the shift quality.

The rule of thumb of high mileage BMW ownership is you must be a pretty serious DIY'er, which you seem quite capable as one. You seem not scared of BMW ownership. I've had 4 BMWs (still have 3) with a cumulative total of over 800,000 miles. Two cars I took past 250,000 (the E90 with 330K) and the 20-year old Z3 has 177,000 on it (which will be on a 8,000 mile road trip here in a few months).

If you can get a good deal on the Z4 then I'd seriously look at it. 1st step is a test drive and mechanical inspection. But there are thousands of '06 - '08 roadsters for sale with lower miles and $12K in price. Something to think about.
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A manual transmission can be set to "comfort", "sport", and "track" modes simply by the technique and speed at which you shift it; it doesn't need "modes", modes are for manumatics that try to behave like a real 3-pedal manual transmission. If you can money-shift it, it's a manual transmission. "Yeah, but NO ONE puts an automatic trans shift knob on a manual transmission."
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      08-29-2017, 09:03 PM   #9
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Thanks all. Found out today they are asking $9950.
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      09-02-2017, 12:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinMsport View Post
Thanks all. Found out today they are asking $9950.
Thats ridiculous...cheapest one i found so far 500 miles around me is 8k with 80k miles.
Its a pre facelift model though- also 2.5i
Not a good deal- PASS
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