approved fluids for my M coupe

[FreeParking]

The dealer who performed my PPI must have been blind. Every fluid in my car is in desperate need of changing. I've already done the oil, Going to need Diff oil, Trans OIL, and Brake fluid. Does anyone have the 'approved list...I am also going to change the coolant as well...Thx in advance

[O-cha]

How did you expect the people doing the PPI to know "every fluid needed changing". More importantly, how did you come to that conclusion.

[elwesso]

This was from another thread, so here's the document.

I'm going to run redline GL-5 in the diff and MT-90 in the trans. Coolant is a good thing to change, and you'll need the BMW stuff.

[G80indy]

Technically Redline recommends the D4 ATF for the tranny, per OEM specs.
MT-90 and even MTL are a bit thick. YMMV

And Ate Superblue is not ideal unless you're changing it out for track duty all the time.
Ate 200 is preferred for OEM spec.
They're so close, and the 200 won't stain the reservoir blue.

[jdoublehcubed]

I originally made and posted that shopping list. Have used the MT-90 for a few months now, I'm not terribly impressed. It was a much better fit for my TT.

Diff fluid has been fine (haven't noticed anything to make me think otherwise), but I'll think I'll try the redline D4 this time around in the tranny.

[elwesso]

What made you not like the MT-90?

[jdoublehcubed]

Its just gotten a little sloppy feeling, like its too thin maybe. I feel like its breaking down faster than I expected (I have maybe 8k miles on it).

It could be normal fluid brakedown that you would feel with any trans fluid, but its enough to make me want to try out D4 and see if it holds up.

I would think that automatic transmissions put a lot more stress on the fluid, so maybe its made to go longer without breaking down. The other options are the new BMW LT2, which I haven't tried because its so expensive, and Royal Purple Syncromax. People that struggle with the slow shift problem like syncromax, but after deleting my clutch delay valve my shifts are perfect. In addition, I've heard a lot of reports that Syncromax breaks down extremely quickly, so you're looking at a LOT more fluid changes.

[RobMCoupe]

Originally Posted by FreeParking

The dealer who performed my PPI must have been blind. Every fluid in my car is in desperate need of changing. I've already done the oil, Going to need Diff oil, Trans OIL, and Brake fluid. Does anyone have the 'approved list...I am also going to change the coolant as well...Thx in advance

This thread should help you get started.

http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=537104

[FreeParking]

O-Cha
I pulled my ps cap and the ATF smelled like used atf! The oil was pretty dirty not filthy but my oil always looks clean...the brake fluid likewise! The trans and diff are my ins policy...as with coolant. Besides, I like fresh clean fluids in my cars...The fact the dealer didn't even mention it was wrong for the $ they charge...

[David70]

Originally Posted by FreeParking

O-Cha
I pulled my ps cap and the ATF smelled like used atf! The oil was pretty dirty not filthy but my oil always looks clean...the brake fluid likewise! The trans and diff are my ins policy...as with coolant. Besides, I like fresh clean fluids in my cars...The fact the dealer didn't even mention it was wrong for the $ they charge...

To be fair to them, if I took my car to a dealer and they told me all the different fluids needed to be changed based on them smelling and looking at the fluid I would think they were trying to make up services to perform.

I would post the information and it would go back to dealers being crooks.

[elwesso]

Honestly, I think the very first thing a new owner should do is change all the fluids.. Fluids are cheap, and that way you have a baseline that you know EVERYTIHNG was changed at a given mileage.

Honestly, I don't consider fluids something to be part of a PPI, because you should plan on replacing them regardless, unless you have very specific documentation they were replaced with proper fluids.

[E85 M ロードスター]

I bought my E85 M Roadster recently and changed engine oil, transmission fluid and differential fluid. I used the following Redline products and followed the DIY posts here.

Engine oil: 10W60 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=130&pcid=21
Transmission fluid: D4 ATF http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=51&pcid=7
Diff fluid: 75W140 GL5 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=134&pcid=4

I bought the car with less than 27.8k miles and both the engine oil and transmission oil were filthy. Surprised that the diff fluid was clean and looked new. I did not change the coolant since the car had radiator hose repaired in late 2008 by the previous owner. I will change the brake fluid when I swap out the brake pads this summer.

Changing the transmission fluid made the shifting much smoother with less notchiness. This is particularly noticeable when cold. Also I would not recommend anything heavier than the ATF fluid for transmission replacement fluid. I think these transmissions stay cool by using light weight oil which runs within the system faster and therefore dissipates heat. But, this is my simpleton logic and don't quote me on this.

[FreeParking]

IMHO the very First thing they should do is to verify fluids! Fluids tell a story, or better yet reveal blown head gaskets, leaky seals, level of maintenance and a whole gamut of information. The fact it isn't even mentioned is a sheer lack of professionalism. I'll deal with it, but seriously for $250 couldn't they change em all and still be ahead of the game?

[RobMCoupe]

OEM diff fluids will cost almost $200. PPI should include compression and leak down test. This will tell you the state of the engine. Why would the shop change the fluids doing PPI. You are paying for inspection and you do not have authority to have shop do the work. It is not your car.

[FreeParking]

Lol I asked about compression and leak down...another$250?..seeing that I am employed in the auto industry I am 100% positive they may charge $200...but their cost is probably $60...

[RobMCoupe]

Originally Posted by FreeParking

Lol I asked about compression and leak down...another$250?..seeing that I am employed in the auto industry I am 100% positive they may charge $200...but their cost is probably $60...

That is too much $$. I had a PPI done with compression and leak down for $250 total. They didn't check the fluids but I it is first on my list.

[FreeParking]

Originally Posted by E85 M ロードスター

I bought my E85 M Roadster recently and changed engine oil, transmission fluid and differential fluid. I used the following Redline products and followed the DIY posts here.

Engine oil: 10W60 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=130&pcid=21
Transmission fluid: D4 ATF http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=51&pcid=7
Diff fluid: 75W140 GL5 http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=134&pcid=4

I bought the car with less than 27.8k miles and both the engine oil and transmission oil were filthy. Surprised that the diff fluid was clean and looked new. I did not change the coolant since the car had radiator hose repaired in late 2008 by the previous owner. I will change the brake fluid when I swap out the brake pads this summer.

Changing the transmission fluid made the shifting much smoother with less notchiness. This is particularly noticeable when cold. Also I would not recommend anything heavier than the ATF fluid for transmission replacement fluid. I think these transmissions stay cool by using light weight oil which runs within the system faster and therefore dissipates heat. But, this is my simpleton logic and don't quote me on this.

Thank You!

I use redline in my E39-540-6 and it made it much better...