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      05-18-2012, 06:47 PM   #1
tom_48
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Diff, transmission oil change question ///M

Hey guys,
I just passed 31K on the m coupe and the engine demands an oil change. So far, every service and oil change have been done on schedule by the dealer but now with my factory warranty expired, I was thinking about doing the service at a nearby shop. Therefore, I had a few question to You guys:
-what oil should I order? Will the oil change warning in the computer reset itself?
-should the diff oil be replaced, as well?
-at that point, should any new filters be put in?
-anything else you guys could recommend replacing...?

Like always, any input is greatly appreciated. I can't wait to go road tripping soon so along with a new set of front tires, I'm eager to perform these maintenance changes.
Thanks,

Tom
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      05-21-2012, 12:42 AM   #2
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For motor oil, I use the Castrol 10W-60. For diff/tranny I'm going to be using Redline....Turner Motorsports recommends it instead of the super expensive Castrol stuff. Filters wouldn't be a bad idea. Take it out, is it dirty? Cabin filter too!
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      05-22-2012, 12:26 PM   #3
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Your Service Indicator Display (SIA) does not automatically reset. Do not reset until it goes negative.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...6&postcount=17
There are several 10W-60 oils available for your S54 engine: Castrol TWS, Red Line, and Greddy to name a few. Most folks stick with the dealer only Castrol TWS. Oil filter is a Mahle OX 187 D.
If your car is a daily driver then a 7000 mile OCI is the way most folks go. Do not reset your SIA at this intermediate oil change.
I use Red Line 80W-140 in my differential and a 50/50 blend of Red Line MTL and MT-90 in my transmission. The diff and tranny drain plugs are not reusable; replace with new plugs.
I change my cabin filter annually (Mann CUK 2339, P/N 64 31 6 915 764); when you see how dirty it gets you'll do the same. I change the engine air filter (Mann C 30139, P/N 13 71 7 521 033) with the stock paper filter every 20,000 miles or sooner if it looks too dirty.
At some point you may want to change the Vanos filter too.




Quote:
Originally Posted by tom_48 View Post
Hey guys,
I just passed 31K on the m coupe and the engine demands an oil change. So far, every service and oil change have been done on schedule by the dealer but now with my factory warranty expired, I was thinking about doing the service at a nearby shop. Therefore, I had a few question to You guys:
-what oil should I order? Will the oil change warning in the computer reset itself?
-should the diff oil be replaced, as well?
-at that point, should any new filters be put in?
-anything else you guys could recommend replacing...?

Like always, any input is greatly appreciated. I can't wait to go road tripping soon so along with a new set of front tires, I'm eager to perform these maintenance changes.
Thanks,

Tom
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      05-23-2012, 08:38 AM   #4
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Here are what I used for my cars:

Diff: Royal Purple Gear Oil Syn 75W140

Transmission: Royal Purple Synchromax (got rid of the common second gear grind)

Engine: Castrol 10W-60
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      05-23-2012, 09:03 AM   #5
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Question on second gear grind - what kind of damage is that doing? In the 7 months or so, I've done this twice now. I've learned how to avoid it, but should I be worried enough to try that Royal Purple synchromax?
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      05-23-2012, 09:52 AM   #6
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if it grind enough, it will mess up that gear. worth the investment in my opinion
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      06-06-2012, 09:32 AM   #7
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This is exactly why I love this forum so much. Thank you Jim!
By the way, do you get your parts from the dealer or somewhere else?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jmillet View Post
Your Service Indicator Display (SIA) does not automatically reset. Do not reset until it goes negative.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...6&postcount=17
There are several 10W-60 oils available for your S54 engine: Castrol TWS, Red Line, and Greddy to name a few. Most folks stick with the dealer only Castrol TWS. Oil filter is a Mahle OX 187 D.
If your car is a daily driver then a 7000 mile OCI is the way most folks go. Do not reset your SIA at this intermediate oil change.
I use Red Line 80W-140 in my differential and a 50/50 blend of Red Line MTL and MT-90 in my transmission. The diff and tranny drain plugs are not reusable; replace with new plugs.
I change my cabin filter annually (Mann CUK 2339, P/N 64 31 6 915 764); when you see how dirty it gets you'll do the same. I change the engine air filter (Mann C 30139, P/N 13 71 7 521 033) with the stock paper filter every 20,000 miles or sooner if it looks too dirty.
At some point you may want to change the Vanos filter too.
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      06-06-2012, 10:16 AM   #8
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I am doing my 30K services this weekend and decided to use Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-140 for the Dif. but have not decide on what to use for the tranny. For the Engine, i stick with Castro 10w60 at 5k interval.
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      06-06-2012, 11:07 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tom_48 View Post
Hey guys,
I just passed 31K on the m coupe and the engine demands an oil change. So far, every service and oil change have been done on schedule by the dealer but now with my factory warranty expired, I was thinking about doing the service at a nearby shop. Therefore, I had a few question to You guys:
-what oil should I order? Will the oil change warning in the computer reset itself?
-should the diff oil be replaced, as well?
-at that point, should any new filters be put in?
-anything else you guys could recommend replacing...?

Like always, any input is greatly appreciated. I can't wait to go road tripping soon so along with a new set of front tires, I'm eager to perform these maintenance changes.
Thanks,

Tom
30,000 miles is designated as the Inspection 1 interval. The recommended items are listed below:

BMW Inspection I

The BMW Inspection 1 Service is the smaller of the two inspection services recommended by BMW. It includes basically all of the items that assures safety and full functionality of your vehicle. Other makes and models can also utilize this maintenance program to ensure a pleasant drive and ownership (But make sure you mechanic says it is OK first). Inspection 1 could cost in the range of $200+ to $300+ depending on who you go to and also if you have any repairs. (Repair cost are not included in the inspection cost) So be prepared to spend more!. If your mechanical skills are high, just DO-It-Yourself! The items that are generally checked are listed below. If you are performing the inspection yourself, We carry most of the BMW parts you need to complete the inspection and replacement of BMW parts. Click here for the parts and don't forget to purchase the BMW service/oil change reset tool.

Undercarriage

Change engine oil and Oil Filter, check engine at is at normal operation temperature.
Check transmission for leaks.
Check rear axle for leaks.
Visually check fuel tank, lines, and connections for leaks.
Check condition, position, and mounting of exhaust system.
Examine for leaks.
Check power steering system for leaks.
Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers.
Grease wheel center hubs.
Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage, and joint disc.
Check front control arm bushing for wear.
Check brake and clutch system connectors and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
Check for free movement of the parking brake cables.
Adjust parking brake if necessary.
Check all tire pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary.
Check condition of tires (outer surfaces (left/right)), tread wear and pattern; In case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if required.

Engine Compartment

Read out diagnostic system with BMW scanners.
Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks.
Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir; add fluid if required.
Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
Check air conditioner for operation.

Reset Service Indicator.

Body/Electrical Equipment

Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required. Perform batter load test.
Check lighting system, i.e. headlights, foglights, parking, backup, license plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated makeup mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
Check wiper and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
Check condition and function of safety belts.
Oil hood, trunk/tailgate, and door hinges.
Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches.
Check operation of all latches.
Check central locking/double lock.
Replace microfilter or Acc. Cabin Filter.
Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
Check rear view mirrors Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations, or accessories.

Final Inspection

Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission
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      06-23-2012, 12:05 AM   #10
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"Lifetime" Tranny oil on an ///M?

Pardon me if this ones been answered a dozen times. I can't find anything on it with respect to an ///M.
Had Inspection 2 done about a year ago by a "reputable" private mechanic.
Had him verbally acknowledge everything on the BMW list, including changing the oil in the trans and diff.
A couple months later I was under the car dorking around and noticed a label on the side of the trans that says something to the effect of "Lifetime Lubrication. DO NOT change oil!".
WTF?
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      06-23-2012, 09:54 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoa View Post
if it grind enough, it will mess up that gear. worth the investment in my opinion
Agreed. Just a point of clarification. It is not the gear grinding that makes the noise it is the syncros.
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      06-23-2012, 04:16 PM   #12
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I heard a very high pitch noise that I think was coming from my gearbox earlier this week when I was sitting at a stoplight and I was putting the car from neutral into first. It kind of sounded like fingernails on a chalkboard. It didn't affect the car going into gear but it still wasn't right. Could this be from not having the clutch fully depressed when moving the gear lever? Something else? I've driven m/t BMW's for over 30 years and never heard anything quite like it. FWIW, I use RP Synchromax and changed the oil about 4 months ago.
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      06-23-2012, 06:09 PM   #13
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Just drained the "life time" fluid from my car (2007 with about 30k miles) and the fluid was very very dark. I am sure it might be ok but i am glad i changed it and will do it at 30k from now on. I brought a container to the local deal and got the OEM liquid gold (at $35/litter
I did the Rear dif earlier and the old fluid wasn't too bad. I replaced it with AMSOIL.
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      07-02-2012, 12:47 PM   #14
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Anyone have any experience with BG's SynchroShift gear oil? I brought my MCS in for scheduled maintenance and swung by the BMW side of the dealership to talk to the SA I usually deal with. He recommended it over the OE fluid and uses it in his track car. I did a search on here but didn't find anything. Also, picked up some diff fluid...it looks orange flavored.

I picked up two bottles of the SynchroShift since the dealer carried it. I'm due to change the engine oil and figured I'd do it over the long weekend coming up. While I have the car up, I figured I might as well swap out some other fluids if needed.
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