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08-26-2015, 12:42 PM | #1 |
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Koni/Eibach installed
I have a 2004 3.0i with M sport suspension and just installed Koni shocks and Eibach springs. My ride height before was 14" for both fronts and rears as measured from the center of stock 18" wheel to the wheel arch. My ride height after is 13.75" in the front and 13.25" in the rear. Eibach advertises a 1.2" drop, so that should be a 0.6" drop for me since I had the M sport suspension. Any reason why my rear dropped more than my front?
Attached is the list of additional parts the shop installed (I supplied the Koni shocks, Eibach springs, Meyle FCABs and Rogue Engineering RSMs). Last edited by Twixboy; 08-26-2015 at 12:54 PM.. Reason: added picture |
08-26-2015, 12:46 PM | #2 |
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I don't have any good before/after shots, but here are a couple from my cellphone. You can see the rears are a little lower, but the angle isn't good to see the front.
Last edited by Twixboy; 08-26-2015 at 12:56 PM.. Reason: added pictures |
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08-26-2015, 01:01 PM | #3 |
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I had the same reaction so I swapped in a 15mm thick rear spring pad to raise the rear and dropped the front some more with a lowered spring perch.
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08-26-2015, 01:08 PM | #4 | |
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Interesting to note they used a 3mm front spring pad and a 5mm rear spring pad. Are those the stock sizes? |
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08-26-2015, 01:11 PM | #5 |
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Yah it does help having tools and a place to work on them.
The rear pads are not hard to do in your driveway though and really all is required is to unbolt the lower shock mount and r&r the upper pads. Just be safe about jacking and securing the car before getting under it.
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08-26-2015, 01:18 PM | #6 | |
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08-26-2015, 01:21 PM | #7 |
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Took me all of an hour to do both sides on the rear
The fronts take a little more because of having to disassemble the struts/springs. Worth the effort in my book
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08-26-2015, 09:09 PM | #8 |
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Aftermarket suspensions rarely maintain the factory rake angle. Like others mentioned, swap out to a thicker rear spring pad. It honestly won't take long and any decent shop should charge one hour labor (and that's rounding up) if you wanted to pay for it.
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08-27-2015, 12:35 AM | #9 |
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I thought rear springs/pads were a snap.
Had my Son put his foot on the caliper and push down while I did the R&R. Then about a year later GuidoK scared my with this RTFM moment. According to the TIS (which I usually read, but in this case obviously didn't), you're supposed to disconnect the sway bars and 1/2-shafts. Just sayin'. I'll be doing an oil change in a few weeks and I'm going to have a good long look at the end links and boots. From the TIS: Necessary preliminary tasks: • Remove rear wheel • Remove output shaft from rear differential • Remove stabilizer from rear axle carrier • Remove stabilizer link bracket on relevant side from control arm • If necessary, remove jointed rod from sensor lever of ride-height sensor I did the first and last.
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08-27-2015, 08:54 AM | #10 |
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I did some searching on this topic and apparently there's a 1.7x factor between spring pad thickness and ride height? If I swap out my 5mm pad for a 15mm pad, will that difference of 10mm (0.4") result in an actual increase in ride height of 0.7" in the rear?
Will moving to a thicker pad also increase ride comfort? I had my Konis set at 25% from the softest setting for daily driving and I think it actually feels more comfortable than my stock suspension, although that might be due to my OEM shocks being almost shot. |
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08-27-2015, 09:25 AM | #11 | |
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Not harsh at all......could be the pad thickness, probably not though
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