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      05-14-2016, 06:54 AM   #1
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Status Gruppe Coilovers Spring Rates - Help

Status Gruppe Coilovers are currently on sale, and reviews are excellent. They offer the following linear spring options.

336 lbs 6 kg / 448 lbs 8 kg

392 lbs 7 kg / 448 lbs 8 kg

392 lbs 7 kg / 505 lbs 9 kg

448 lbs 8 kg / 505 lbs 9 kg

The car will only be used for street driving. I'm a complete newb when it comes to coilovers and spring rates. Can someone please suggest which spring rate would be best for street use?

They also offer an upgrade to Swift springs. If I were tracking the car, I think this would be a no-brainer, but would it be worth the extra cost for just street?

Thanks, guys. I really appreciate any help you can provide.

Salty
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      05-14-2016, 07:33 AM   #2
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Are you looking for Boulevard cruiser comfort or do you spend time carving back roads in the Smokey Mtns.?
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      05-14-2016, 07:51 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
Are you looking for Boulevard cruiser comfort or do you spend time carving back roads in the Smokey Mtns.?
I get to the mountains every chance I get.

Salty
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      05-14-2016, 08:33 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC View Post
I get to the mountains every chance I get.

Salty
I've spent some time on those roads on a couple occasions.
I wish I was a lot closer to them

To put things in perspective, I'm running 550/650 spring rates on a track focused setup.
You will want to be a lot softer than that.

I have 100lb differential fr/rr, but as you get softer in the rates I would lower that differential. (Think in %)
I would go 7/8kg if you want a smoother ride and 8/9 for better performance in the Mtns.

The dampers make a HUGE difference in how the car feels & performs.
For example my current MCS suspension has stiffer springs than my previous Clubsports, but the ride on the street is actually nicer. (Smoother, less harsh)
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      05-14-2016, 09:02 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
I've spent some time on those roads on a couple occasions.
I wish I was a lot closer to them

To put things in perspective, I'm running 550/650 spring rates on a track focused setup.
You will want to be a lot softer than that.

I have 100lb differential fr/rr, but as you get softer in the rates I would lower that differential. (Think in %)
I would go 7/8kg if you want a smoother ride and 8/9 for better performance in the Mtns.

The dampers make a HUGE difference in how the car feels & performs.
For example my current MCS suspension has stiffer springs than my previous Clubsports, but the ride on the street is actually nicer. (Smoother, less harsh)
I really appreciate this information. Thanks so much!

Salty
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      05-15-2016, 10:26 PM   #6
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Install?

I have been following your trek for a new suspension system, and I sense you are about to pull the trigger. Not sure if you are a DIY guy, but if so, please post all the gory details.
Cheers
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      05-15-2016, 10:48 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 308tr6 View Post
I have been following your trek for a new suspension system, and I sense you are about to pull the trigger. Not sure if you are a DIY guy, but if so, please post all the gory details.
Cheers
I pulled the trigger. I went with the Status Gruppe. With them on sale and a coupon code, I was able to get them for $977. They have a good reputation with the e46 crowd, and a few Z4M owners. It's a lot of coilover for that kind of money.

If I decide to tackle the install, I'll do a DIY. I'm still debating. I'm new to coilovers, so this would be something completely new to me, but it doesn't look too bad.

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      05-16-2016, 08:07 AM   #8
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There are a number of DIY out there.
E.g. http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=180341

Other than location and getting to the RSM, they're all very similar.
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      05-16-2016, 11:09 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
There are a number of DIY out there.
E.g. http://m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=180341

Other than location and getting to the RSM, they're all very similar.
Thanks for this link. I've been collecting videos and DIYs but didn't have this great thread. What is interesting is that often one video will have an important step another DIY doesn't mention. I've also found videos where the installers are using bad techniques...which I wouldn't know was a bad technique if it hadn't been for yet another DIY. I hope after watching all of them, I'll have all of my bases covered.

Salty
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      05-16-2016, 12:02 PM   #10
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^ very true.
One bad thing I see in some DIY is they don't properly support the rotor/brake assembly.
I cringe when I see the brake line stretched tight supporting this weight.
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      08-03-2016, 05:49 PM   #11
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any update in the install? pictures? it's a remote chance that they're still on sale, are they?
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      08-12-2016, 09:28 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeD4Mr View Post
any update in the install? pictures? it's a remote chance that they're still on sale, are they?
I placed an order and waited more than a month then finally requested they cancel my order. I'll probably just do H&R coilovers eventually.

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      08-15-2016, 11:43 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC View Post
I placed an order and waited more than a month then finally requested they cancel my order. I'll probably just do H&R coilovers eventually.
Ouch, can't believe they dropped the ball. Too good to be true in the end huh...
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      08-17-2016, 09:57 PM   #14
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Ouch, can't believe they dropped the ball. Too good to be true in the end huh...
The owner was very nice and he even offered me a better deal if I could wait, but I was just ready to move on. I understand some things are built to order, but that wasn't the impression I got from the website. I thought they were available to ship out. I'm not saying anything bad about the company. He seemed like a stand-up guy. Maybe I just didn't understand how they operate.

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      08-18-2016, 12:40 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaltyNC View Post
The owner was very nice and he even offered me a better deal if I could wait, but I was just ready to move on. I understand some things are built to order, but that wasn't the impression I got from the website. I thought they were available to ship out. I'm not saying anything bad about the company. He seemed like a stand-up guy. Maybe I just didn't understand how they operate.

Salty
Yeah...a lot of internet sites operate this way, unfortunately. I'm in the same boat right now waiting for my exhaust - I'm at week #2 of a 4 week lead time
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      08-23-2016, 05:56 PM   #16
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I'm also on a hunt for coilovers. Not in a rush to decide since one last track day left for the season and don't think I'll get anything in time for the install. I'm trying to not go too expensive since I'd like also get a square setup for next year.

Status
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care to comment based on your research/experience?

I've also heard that a softer or close to equal spring rate for the rear is more desirable for the e85/6 chassis?
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      08-26-2016, 11:38 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeD4Mr
Status
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Ast 4150
PSS10 (missed that deal in the classifieds)
Out of that list, the only ones I can recommend are probably the AST and the Bilstein, as I have driven and ridden in extensively cars equipped from those two companies, or have heard praises from fellow junkies. Although I think the AST one will require some customization to fit the MZ4 right, since you will need to purchase the E36 M3 kit, and both the front and rear damper travel will need to be revised (and I'm still not 100% sold that the E36 M3 rear shocks are a direct bolt-on).

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeD4Mr
I've also heard that a softer or close to equal spring rate for the rear is more desirable for the e85/6 chassis?
That's a really odd recommendation, and the first I've ever heard of it. Granted I am no expert, logic would dictate that you want to keep the wheel rates as even as possible on a 50/50 distro chassis, and tune the biases one way or another either through alignment, dampers, or swaybars to further neutralize the handling of the chassis. Although, I've also heard of people disconnecting their rear swaybars on OTHER BMW chassis, that in effect is analogous to altering (softening) the wheel rate in the rear but I don't see how that would benefit the MZ4, which, by all accounts, comes from the factory with a propensity to UNDERSTEER.

By softening the rear springs to a point where the front and rear spring rates are equal, you are creating an imbalance in the front/rear wheel rate bias, in essence trying to fix a naturally understeering car by introducing MOAHR understeer.

Does not compute.
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