Adjustable Sway Bar End Links

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by dre99gsx

You only need one adjustable per side.

Yes, except if you want to change the overall angle.
Our rears benefit from raising the rear angle to gain a bit more half shaft clearance.

[itdnwiwbp]

One per side? Regardless, still haven't found any rear compatible with stock bars.

[inTgr8r]

Originally Posted by itdnwiwbp

One per side? Regardless, still haven't found any rear compatible with stock bars.

To take out preload, yes, you only need one.

....i did a LOT of digging for an adjustable rear and found nothing.
Im going to change out the ARBS.

[inTgr8r]

Update to this discussion...

I installed H&R bars and adjustable end links this week.
After corner balancing the car (links disconnected) when reconnecting the bars there was definitely a significant adjustment required to the links front and rear to eliminate pre-load.

Front there was aprox 3/4" difference and rear was about 1/2" difference.

Also regarding need for only one link.
This is true to eliminate pre-load, but you need two if you want to change overall position of the bar angle.
This is especially important at the rear where clearances are very tight between the wheel drive shaft and lower camber control arms.

[seank]

Originally Posted by inTgr8r

Update to this discussion...

I installed H&R bars and adjustable end links this week.
After corner balancing the car (links disconnected) when reconnecting the bars there was definitely a significant adjustment required to the links front and rear to eliminate pre-load.

Front there was aprox 3/4" difference and rear was about 1/2" difference.

Also regarding need for only one link.
This is true to eliminate pre-load, but you need two if you want to change overall position of the bar angle.
This is especially important at the rear where clearances are very tight between the wheel drive shaft and lower camber control arms.

Agreed. Ideally you want the sway bar to be parallel to the ground for maximum efficiency.

[r4gs]

Question with regards to GC's specific front sway bar and adjustable endlinks - how do I correctly and accurately adjust the endlinks? I have some vertical freeplay where physically moving the sway bar with my arm causes a 'rattle' and I want to eliminate this altogether. Looks to be some threads on the ends of the connecting rods to the endlinks which can lengthen or shorten the rod itself? Also, the connecting rods to endlinks fit to an adjustable clamp, do I have to adjust this sideways along the ends of the sway bar?

[seank]

Originally Posted by r4gs

Question with regards to GC's specific front sway bar and adjustable endlinks - how do I correctly and accurately adjust the endlinks? I have some vertical freeplay where physically moving the sway bar with my arm causes a 'rattle' and I want to eliminate this altogether. Looks to be some threads on the ends of the connecting rods to the endlinks which can lengthen or shorten the rod itself? Also, the connecting rods to endlinks fit to an adjustable clamp, do I have to adjust this sideways along the ends of the sway bar?

The GC sway bar is the best, due to be the lightest and having infinite adjustment. That being said, they are the noisiest by design.

Having the links unscrewed out the least will help with the noise, but also ensuring that they are not preloaded.

Make sure the nut is tightened down on the link tight.

Make sure the sway bar clamps are very very tight. This eliminates the play in the washers. Also make sure they are parallel to the links or they may slide from side to side as they push and pull.

Oil and grease all moving parts with some water proof lithium grease.

Now, that I have done this they are pretty quiet. BTW, don't forget to reinforce your tabs. They will rip out and I primarily just do street driving. Cheaper and easier before.

Hope this helps.

[r4gs]

Originally Posted by seank

The GC sway bar is the best, due to be the lightest and having infinite adjustment. That being said, they are the noisiest by design.

Having the links unscrewed out the least will help with the noise, but also ensuring that they are not preloaded.

Make sure the nut is tightened down on the link tight.

Make sure the sway bar clamps are very very tight. This eliminates the play in the washers. Also make sure they are parallel to the links or they may slide from side to side as they push and pull.

Oil and grease all moving parts with some water proof lithium grease.

Now, that I have done this they are pretty quiet. BTW, don't forget to reinforce your tabs. They will rip out and I primarily just do street driving. Cheaper and easier before.

Hope this helps.

Thank you for a detailed rundown. I just returned from the shop readjusting the end links and it seems like the left balljoint connecting to the sway bar clamp has been worn and has some play despite having extended both sides equally to reduce any vertical freeplay. Re-tightened everything on both sides and went for a test drive - same issue, same 'rattling', albeit marginally less so. Seems isolated to the left of the car now which reinforces the impression that the left balljoint is worn. Sway bar clamps and bushings/lubricants aren't any issue. Also, the subframe mounts have been reinforced already so no issues there.

Will be emailing Trevor from GC to see if I can get a set of links on warranty since GC gives a lifetime warranty on all their products. In any case, also intent on getting a complete set of OEM suspension components (shocks, springs, sways) from beedub.

[seank]

Is the rattling side, the most extended of the 2?

[r4gs]

Originally Posted by seank

Is the rattling side, the most extended of the 2?

Both sides are equally extended, measured. Only the left balljoint has play - just jiggling the end link itself under the car will cause the 'rattle'. Already emailed Trevor, will update as required subsequently.