|
|
SUPPORT ZPOST BY DOING YOUR TIRERACK SHOPPING FROM THIS BANNER, THANKS! |
Post Reply |
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
01-01-2012, 04:40 PM | #1 |
is a Texan
49
Rep 387
Posts |
.::DIY - How to make your trunk/hatch 'pop' open more::.
Credit where credit's due: I used this idea from another gentleman (Iansanderson, E46fanatics.com).
Are you a bigger handed person and/or are tired of trying to open a trunk that has no handle and only a very small gap once open? Then this ~$11 mod might be worth it for you. The E85/6 platform comes with simple static rubber bump stops installed on the trunk lid. If you remove those and replace with these spring loaded bump stops, you'll be able to open your trunk/hatch with ease! Tools/Parts needed: - Pliers - P/N: 51248137994 - 23N* - Two (2) needed - ~$5.50 each OR, depending on application: - P/N 51248187291 - 34N* - $5.75 each * 23N versus 34N strength ejectors are discussed below. Begin by opening the trunk and locating the bump stops in question. In the picture below, they are the round black rubber items on either side of the trunk latch. To remove the old bump stops, grab onto the exposed portion with your pliers and turn them counter-clockwise. You'll notice they being to back out of the trunk lid and will eventually come completely out. A comparison shot of stock bump stop (Right) and the upgrade ejecting bump stop (left). For installing the new units, you'll note the hole in the trunk lid is a key-hole like shape. The cut out is there as a place to begin threading the bump back into the hole, make sure to orientate the beginning thread of the bump stop so that it enters the cut out. Tighten it down by screwing it in clockwise and turn it down to the depth that you found your original stops to be at. Done. For comparisons of the difference it makes, a few before and after shots. This is how the trunk sits when first opened. A very simple mod and one you'll likely come to forget has been done, but IMHO, it is worth the $11 for the added ease of opening the trunk.
__________________
- Jake Last edited by Jmanscotch; 02-23-2012 at 09:26 PM.. |
01-01-2012, 06:40 PM | #5 |
is a Texan
49
Rep 387
Posts |
Haha, it'd been pointless with all of this rain we've had!
I saw some of those, was curious to get a review on them as the pictures on ebay didn't really show it from the best angle and it seemed like it might not work too well. A combo of both might be something that'd work though...
__________________
- Jake |
Appreciate
0
|
01-01-2012, 08:49 PM | #6 | |
Lieutenant
9
Rep 421
Posts |
Quote:
Do you have to slam it to close? Did you try the ones in front? Your using 23N. Front is 34N. On the hood, I changed the 34N to the 23N so I don't have to slam it. In that time I looked for the coupe trunk issue and I didn't to it since I didn't research what opened it. On the sides bumpers may do it. Each is ~$21.00. Will see if the coupe works. Thanks. My Z3 coupe didn't have the 23N on the roadster. We used the door lock switch with a controller (John F.) and if you held it for .7 second the trunk would open if less then 5MPH. When John gets going we will do that on the Z4. I also have switches on the B pillars that open the trunk from the sides stopped instead of opening the doors. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...72&postcount=1 |
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-02-2012, 02:56 PM | #7 |
is a Texan
49
Rep 387
Posts |
No need to slam it, it seems to close with about the same amount of effort as before (didn't make a point to compare, but haven't noticed any extra effort or experienced it not closing easily).
I didn't mess with the front, I see the front to have sufficient opening for me to open the hood just fine. I didn't even realize there were different strength ejectors. I used these part numbers on my E46 and found it to work well, so I simply dug up the thread again and order the same part numbers for my Z. Interesting ideas you link though...not sure it's worth the modification to the B pillars for me, but neat and an idea for some I'm sure. To be frank, I didn't put near as much thought into as you, Ron.
__________________
- Jake |
Appreciate
0
|
01-03-2012, 12:08 AM | #8 |
Lieutenant
9
Rep 421
Posts |
Z4M coupe trunk
23N both fits Z4M coupe trunk lid.
Closed 5/16". Open with the drivers side (I only have one) is 1/2". Passenger slight lower. Will purchase another if it makes it higher both sides. To lift the Z4M coupe is 11 pounds. I also had some 3M xpel clear circles made of like BMW at Z3 but double .014". I put them in my Z4M coupe hood where it hits with the two front and one rear switch. I will put two in the back for the trunk area where it hits. Also had some 3M xpel clear rectangular like the stock ones that you can't purchase. It is double thick too. I have sold circles and rectangles and have some. Circle $6 for ten. Rectangle $8 for two. Haven't found the pics yet. Last edited by Ron Stygar; 01-27-2012 at 06:24 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
01-03-2012, 12:53 PM | #9 |
New Member
2
Rep 11
Posts |
Is there a way to fully open the trunk?
Like this.. |
Appreciate
0
|
01-03-2012, 01:01 PM | #10 |
is a Texan
49
Rep 387
Posts |
Without getting too fancy, the stronger lift shock idea might work. The trunk is relatively light, so some stronger ones may allow it to pop all the way open while not introducing SO much resistance that you'd have an awlful time trying to close it.
__________________
- Jake |
Appreciate
0
|
01-05-2012, 02:39 PM | #11 |
Gone but not forgotten
4
Rep 148
Posts |
I had an '06 545 with the fully opening trunk. Didn't realize I would miss it until I got my 335. It is handy to have it open fully when you punch the trunk release button.
__________________
2015 Audi SQ5
RECENT PAST 2013 Porsche Boxster S 2009 335i/Coupe/Dinan S3 2006 BMW Z4 3.0si |
Appreciate
0
|
01-05-2012, 02:47 PM | #12 |
Imola Lover
26
Rep 749
Posts |
They're called "buffer stop with ejectors" and you can find them under the hood of your zed. They come in two different spring strengths. They're also EXTREMELY fragile and if you slam your hood (or trunk in this case) regularly as opposed to just pushing it closed, you'll eventually force the ejector through the bottom of the buffer assembly (which is why some folks have swapped out the high-strength spring model used under the zed bonnet with the lower-strength units).
__________________
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-05-2012, 02:50 PM | #13 | |
Imola Lover
26
Rep 749
Posts |
Quote:
__________________
|
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-05-2012, 05:50 PM | #14 | ||
is a Texan
49
Rep 387
Posts |
Quote:
Quote:
I had these lower-strength units (before I knew there were different ones) in my E46 for ~30K miles and never busted them, so those switching maybe onto something.
__________________
- Jake |
||
Appreciate
0
|
01-05-2012, 06:15 PM | #15 | |
Dog Listener
701
Rep 7,850
Posts |
Quote:
Guess I need two lower strength ones. Perfect timing on this thread! |
|
Appreciate
0
|
01-27-2012, 02:07 AM | #16 |
Colonel
1128
Rep 2,863
Posts
Drives: Anything
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SoCal
|
Tried this mod today, but unfortunately, it didn't work too well for the coupe...probably due to the hatch being heavier than the roadster. Not all was lost though, since one of my front ejector just failed - the end cap along with the internal spring are no where to be found (somewhat of a perfect timing), I replaced both fronts with these 23N. Hopefully, the lower strength ejectors would hold up better.
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-23-2012, 09:22 PM | #18 |
is a Texan
49
Rep 387
Posts |
P/N 51248137994 are the 23N*
P/N 51248187291 are the 34N* *Source: Realoem.com To add a bit of a review now that I've had them longer: I have caught myself not closing the trunk hard enough to allow the latch to catch with these installed. I'm in my trunk often enough, but have maybe not closed it well enough 3-4 times since installation. It seems the Z trunk lid is considerably lighter than an E46 lid as I never had an issue on that one.
__________________
- Jake Last edited by Jmanscotch; 02-23-2012 at 09:28 PM.. |
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2012, 07:02 PM | #19 |
Private
7
Rep 82
Posts |
My Z4 coupe 2007, did not come with ejector buffer stops for the hood. The stops under the hood are weird and have a phillips head screw in the center of them. How do I remove this type of stop and can it be replaced with ejector style buffer stops?
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2012, 08:01 PM | #20 |
Colonel
1128
Rep 2,863
Posts
Drives: Anything
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SoCal
|
Jax, That IS the ejector stopper that happened to be broken! Just twist the rubber piece counter-clockwise to remove it.
|
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2012, 08:38 PM | #21 |
More of this than that!
29
Rep 817
Posts |
Ok, I can't make heads or tails out of this thread.
If I want to get my trunk to pop up more...which of the two part numbers should I use? P/N 51248137994 are the 23N* P/N 51248187291 are the 34N* I went to my local dealer to view each part.... seems they need to special order these for me to even view which ones I should get. I even explained exactly what I was trying to accomplish to the parts guy. The guy said he had no idea...he could order the parts based on the numbers I gave him but couldn't promise I'd actually get what I wanted cause it wasn't verified by a BMW Tech. And to top it off, he wanted an up front cost for the special order with $25.00 shipping charge....and a 50% re-stocking fee IF I don't want to keep either set. Sheesh...I sure wish I had a decent stealer to chat/deal with. In the end...I'll order online and not give these guys one Canadian nickel.
__________________
'06 Z4 3.0i Jet Black/ Biege/Black Leather / Premium Package / DICE Silverline DUO / Stubby Antenna / Matte Black Grill Ultimate Cup Holder x2 / Gaptech RCH+ / First Aid storagebox x2 / Acrylic Wind Deflector |
Appreciate
0
|
02-24-2012, 08:50 PM | #22 | |
Private
7
Rep 82
Posts |
Quote:
Nevermind, the philips head screw is definitely the part that ejects. I just went to touch it and the screw head disappeared down the center of the rubber stopper and won't pop back up, as if the spring is broken or stuck Last edited by Jax543210; 02-24-2012 at 09:04 PM.. |
|
Appreciate
0
|
Post Reply |
Bookmarks |
|
|