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      12-18-2010, 12:09 PM   #23
RBull
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^normal with mine
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      12-18-2010, 12:26 PM   #24
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^ mine is about that. 1-2 Sec.
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      12-18-2010, 12:32 PM   #25
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Yeah, I've described that as follows: You think/mumble "what the f..." and it starts right then at the "f".

A little surprising to see a '07 model battery not able to hold a charge anymore. Mine is still good, and I've got it on a good charger now. I hope it will last a little longer...
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      12-18-2010, 12:49 PM   #26
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Thanks guys ...glad to hear that the slightly longer crank time is normal. Got my MC with a non-OE battery installed and thought that it might not be up to par.

BTW...sorry for the tread-jack

Last edited by XMetal; 12-18-2010 at 12:58 PM..
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      12-18-2010, 01:41 PM   #27
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Mine is non OE too.

Also sorry for thread jack.

Quote:
Originally Posted by XMetal View Post
Thanks guys ...glad to hear that the slightly longer crank time is normal. Got my MC with a non-OE battery installed and thought that it might not be up to par.

BTW...sorry for the tread-jack
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      12-18-2010, 02:48 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paul2241 View Post
It turns out my car was in transport mode. BMW charged me $60 to turn that mode off and told me I have a bad cell in the battery. They want $425 for a new battery plus an hour labor. Took it to auto zone, they said the battery tested fine. Now I don't know what to do.
What a load of crap. The car goes into "transport mode" due to a low battery? There should be an owner modifiable fix to this issue. Paying the dealer $60 is an outright rip-off. Our Audi Q7 has to have the new battery coded into the system to make it work properly. This makes a battery replacement around $5-600. I thought the Z4 was better, maybe not.
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      12-18-2010, 07:22 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chickdr View Post
What a load of crap. The car goes into "transport mode" due to a low battery? There should be an owner modifiable fix to this issue. Paying the dealer $60 is an outright rip-off. Our Audi Q7 has to have the new battery coded into the system to make it work properly. This makes a battery replacement around $5-600. I thought the Z4 was better, maybe not.
Yeah, I was thrilled when I found out what it was and that it was going to cost me. Plus the dealer made me feel like they were doing me a favor by "squeezing" me in to get it fixed at the last minute. I called them at 9 am and didn't hear back until 4:30. Also, the scare tactics have to stop, "your battery has a bad cell it won't make it through the night, that will be $500" Auto zone tested it and said it was fine. I'm getting more frustrated by the minute thinking about it.
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      12-18-2010, 08:21 PM   #30
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Paul,
How old is the battery? I would just swap in a new one if it's older than 5 years, just to be on the safe side. Just buy the battery and install it yourself (in most cases for less than $150). If I recall, even the OEM BMW battery can be had for about $200.
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      12-18-2010, 09:30 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMetal View Post
Paul,
How old is the battery? I would just swap in a new one if it's older than 5 years, just to be on the safe side. Just buy the battery and install it yourself (in most cases for less than $150). If I recall, even the OEM BMW battery can be had for about $200.
I agree. A weak battery will kill a starter, and the starter was a pain to change. Price at the dealership with OE parts ~$900-1000 depending on where you live. IIRC I did it myself for $130 with an Autozone Duralast starter.
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      12-18-2010, 11:19 PM   #32
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Its about 3.5 or 4 years old. The car starts reliably every time except for that one time that I left accessories on. On really cold days it takes an extra second to start, but always turns right over.
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      12-19-2010, 12:47 AM   #33
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I say replace it in the next year, but not ASAP. If you ever have any problems with it starting- change it.
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      12-20-2010, 03:26 AM   #34
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Great news from my side. The transport mode was to blame. Got it fixed this morning.

Last edited by ToyMaker_GR; 12-20-2010 at 07:23 AM..
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      12-22-2010, 07:57 AM   #35
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This is f-ing bull sh-t. so theres no way to do a DIY ? theres no way I can get an appointment for this weekend... I was driving to work without defroster.. kind hard especially this cold weather...
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      12-22-2010, 08:16 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lstratos View Post
This is f-ing bull sh-t. so theres no way to do a DIY ? theres no way I can get an appointment for this weekend... I was driving to work without defroster.. kind hard especially this cold weather...
Transport mode is heat to the windows only. If you're not getting heat to the windows, you're not in transport mode. You have a different problem.
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      12-22-2010, 11:21 AM   #37
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I have all the symptoms listed from other site. Low power battery, got jump, No AC (snow flake), no rear defroster, fan doesn't go full blast.

either way its going back to the dealer next week.
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      12-25-2010, 10:23 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by paul2241 View Post
Hello, I must have left something on in my car last night and the battery was dead this morning. I had it jumped, and everything is all right, except for my climate control. It lights up, but will not blow air of any temp. Also the air conditioning and rear defroster buttons are not working. Any ideas?

Thank you.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...53#post5721853
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      12-26-2010, 07:23 AM   #39
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Does every Z4 go into "transport mode" when the battery is disconnected or replaced? Or is this an unusual problem?
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      12-26-2010, 10:21 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by car62 View Post
Does every Z4 go into "transport mode" when the battery is disconnected or replaced?
My car doesn't.
I assume if you follow the transport mode above.
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      01-07-2011, 05:13 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by CFoote View Post
Let's hope so, that climate control module is $500 from the dealer if I remember correctly

If you guys end up need a new module, let me know, I have one in mint condition out of my '05.

Chris
I need an 2002/X5 Climate Control. Will your 05 X5 be compatible with my 2002 X5? There are 3 controls and the center one that controls the Vent for top/bottom/defrost, that one is broken on the backside and NOT the front panel but was told that I would have to replace the whole panel. Please advise.
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      04-21-2017, 11:02 PM   #42
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My car's battery been dying lately so I've jump started it a few times. One of those times, my AC stopped blowing cold (and hot) air, doesn't even make a sound. I checked the fuses (and broke the damn glove box so now it sags) and they seem to be fine. From what I've read, sounds like it could be in Transport Mode. While the car was running, the dash indicated the voltage to be at a steady 14.0-14.4. Now that my car hasn't been turned on since 8pm yesterday (now 11pm right now), the dash indicates the battery V is at a low 9.5-10.0. The battery is brand new from autozone as of November 2016. Any thoughts? Help would be much appreciated as the next 100 degree days could be coming down with some rain and windows down won't be an option.
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      04-22-2017, 04:13 AM   #43
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These cars are very persnickety about batteries. I had my alternator go out a few years ago and by the time I got a new one in, I had killed the battery. My indie put a new, off the shelf, battery in the car for me (an Interstate) and it gave me problems from the get go. It never seemed to hold a charge well and drained easily. I finally broke down after almost a year of this and got a new AGM from O'Reillys ......... problem solved. This thing charges quickly, holds a good 12.6 volts between drives and no more weird electrical issues. The previous new Interstate wouldn't hold a good charge. You would think the percentage of good new batteries out there would be high, but from what I've read a defective off the shelf new battery is not that abnormal. YMMV
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      04-22-2017, 10:00 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antennahead View Post
These cars are very persnickety about batteries. I had my alternator go out a few years ago and by the time I got a new one in, I had killed the battery. My indie put a new, off the shelf, battery in the car for me (an Interstate) and it gave me problems from the get go. It never seemed to hold a charge well and drained easily. I finally broke down after almost a year of this and got a new AGM from O'Reillys ......... problem solved. This thing charges quickly, holds a good 12.6 volts between drives and no more weird electrical issues. The previous new Interstate wouldn't hold a good charge. You would think the percentage of good new batteries out there would be high, but from what I've read a defective off the shelf new battery is not that abnormal. YMMV
I have an Interstate Mega-Tron Plus (age unknown - just bought the car last August,) and it seems just fine. I'll go weeks in between starting the car and it fires right up. I probably just jinxed myself...
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