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06-16-2013, 01:19 AM | #1 |
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[Z4M] Blackstone Oil Report --2nd High Lead
I received my second Blackstone oil report last week. I was concerned about elevated lead on my first reading, and the second reading also came back with high lead. I know Lead + Copper generally indicates bearing wear. But I have elevated lead and iron readings. So I've turned to ZPOST for some help.
I've owned the car since January '12 with only 24k miles. There's about 32k on the vehicle now. I have BMW service records until when the car was sold to me at which time I performed my own maintenance. I've read that using Techron can cause higher lead readings, but I've never used any fuel injector cleaner in my car. I occasionally drive spirited, but only after the car is fully warmed up. No track days. Any ideas? Should I be looking forward to bearing replacement? |
06-16-2013, 04:48 PM | #2 |
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6k miles might be too high.
I changed my first oil at 5k-ish and got around those numbers (21ppm Iron and 14ppm Lead) Did it this time at 2800 mikes and sitting at 11ppm Iron and 8ppm Lead Mine is heavily autocrossed and track. |
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06-17-2013, 06:21 AM | #3 |
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06-17-2013, 06:30 AM | #4 | |
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OP, I'd read back through the old threads regarding correlation of lead values and other metals being an indicator, not just elevated lead alone. |
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06-17-2013, 09:59 AM | #5 |
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We have seen cars with rod bearing failure at your mileage so I would take these reports very seriously. The problem is once the bearings have been damaged, this begets more damage. Changing the oil more frequently will not prevent this from accelerating.I had similar values with my bearings , almost at the failure point. All S54's need there bearings replaced at some point , some at 30,000 miles some at 80,000 depending on use . Just because you are easy on the car doesn't mean the previous owner was. Did they redline it cold frequently, let run low on oil, not change the oil for 15,000 miles? You have objective data that there is elevated bearing wear despite no hard usage pattern. This makes your levels more concerning than someone who tracks their car. If you plan on keeping your car long term its time to change bearings IMHO.
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06-17-2013, 03:58 PM | #6 |
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Change the bearings or let it blow. You'll know its getting bad when you hear it knocking and then time to worry. If it was me and I couldn't get bearing/crank work done for under $3500 id drive it till it died and pick up a used S54. But thats just me. LOL. Called around here for estimates and they were crazy. Just for piece of mind at later mileage.
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06-17-2013, 04:51 PM | #7 |
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The plus side is you can upgrade the bearings to larger bearing, and upgrade the oil pump. Sorry to hear. Just letting you know the positives of the situation.
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06-17-2013, 08:08 PM | #8 |
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Well I guess everyone has confirmed my fears. I was hoping low Copper counts may have been a saving grace.
Now onto the next topic: Any recommendations for new bearings? I'm presuming the coated ones from VAC Motorsports? |
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06-17-2013, 08:39 PM | #9 | |
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06-17-2013, 08:59 PM | #10 | |
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My2 cents because I have done this many times on my s14. Upgrade oil pump while you are in there if you are ever going to track the car. |
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06-18-2013, 05:19 AM | #11 | |
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I am having my rod bearings replaced the first week of July (Blackstone lead level of '43') and I am trying to decide what else to do while I am in there. |
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06-18-2013, 06:14 AM | #12 | |
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Do you have more info? The other option for bearings is Randy Forbes. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=644245
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06-18-2013, 06:52 AM | #13 |
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I already have talked to Randy Forbes on this topic. He is ready to do mine if I drive down. I am doing a face to face with my local guy today.
VAC sells the standard bearing and the .025 undersized crank (oversized bearing). |
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06-18-2013, 08:06 AM | #14 |
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Just remember that repairs are a 100% loss, may be time to look at that E92 M3.
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06-18-2013, 08:16 AM | #15 |
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06-18-2013, 09:10 AM | #16 |
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The money you put into car repairs will add NOTHING to the value of the car on sale or trade.
Example: My wife's Lexus is due for a timing belt/water pump, tires, and 100K service. Doing this will add nothing to the value of the car and it will still depreciate roughly 2K per year. Why not get the best deal possible on a replacement and focus on minimizing depreciation? If I can get a deal on a replacement car that gives me the same depreciation over the next 5 years, a warranty, and spend nothing on repairs I come out ahead!
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06-18-2013, 10:00 AM | #17 |
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Yes, now I understand your comment. I am still trying to figure out what prompted it.
You will come out ahead if you are only looking at this from a tangible value aspect and I suspect that’s the only way you will look at this. With that said, I do not understand WHY you bought a BMW Z4M instead of, let’s say, a Honda Accord V6. I am SURE the Accord will depreciate less than the BMW and you will defiantly have less out of pocket expenses with the Honda. I look at it this way. I don’t freaking care about depreciation or residuals on ANY of my vehicles. I keep car based on non-tangible factors for the most part. I like the way the Z4M feels when I drive it. I like the Roadster because I like the way it feels. I drive my truck because I like the way it performs in the areas that I drive it. None of them were bought with respect to resale values. |
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06-18-2013, 10:31 AM | #18 |
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^^^
Well said. Ship...how many miles on your car? |
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06-18-2013, 10:59 AM | #19 |
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Maybe the Z4M is my "Honda Accord".
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06-18-2013, 11:04 AM | #20 |
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The money you spend on repairs might not increase the resale value outright, but a car needs to be maintained to be worth anything. Good luck getting any value (compared to what you paid) trying to sell a car in major disrepair.
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06-18-2013, 11:05 AM | #21 |
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What kind of price ranges have you found for repairs?
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06-18-2013, 11:07 AM | #22 |
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