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07-24-2013, 10:39 AM | #1 |
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Cold Start - Engine cranks 5-10 times before starting.
When the car is warm, it starts right up. But each morning, I have to keep on it to start. It's cranking strong and I just had the battery replaced a month or two ago but just refuses to start up quickly.
Once started, I don't experience rough or dipping idle like in the some of the other threads I found on zpost. I had one of my shops take a look a while back but they couldn't reproduce it (car wasn't cold) and they didn't find any codes. Since then, it seems to be slowly getting worse. 31k on odometer and haven't had inspection 2 yet (hasn't prompted me yet). Only thing I've done is added techron last two fill ups. So far no noticeable improvement during cold start. I'm going to be doing headers and exhaust soon and I want to make sure I don't have any underlying issues outstanding before I go making a bunch of changes.
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07-24-2013, 10:42 AM | #2 | |
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I'd start with a fuel pressure test. There's an internal check valve that should maintain pressure to aid in starting. If the pressure bleeds off too quickly it can cause long cranks.
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07-24-2013, 12:03 PM | #3 |
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I had the same issue check out my thread:
http://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=826328 The dealer replaced the following: MAF Sensor, Fuel Pump, and T-Shape Idle Regulating Valve Seemed to have been the T-Shape Idle Regulating Valve. Now that its replaced it no longer has been an issue. Hope that helps! |
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07-24-2013, 12:41 PM | #4 |
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Do you hold the key in position 1 while the fuel pump charges the system?
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07-24-2013, 12:54 PM | #5 |
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Was just reading about that in the other threads. Going to try it tomorrow morning.
Right now, I do not.
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07-24-2013, 03:02 PM | #6 | |
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I have a similar issue but haven't found any faults recorded in the ECU. Did the shop replace those based on reported faults or just the manual diagnosis?
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07-25-2013, 01:38 PM | #7 | ||
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Quote:
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Let me know.
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