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      10-25-2010, 12:26 AM   #23
onebluemcm
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Is this job potentially harder to do on a Z4 compared to an M3 because of the clearance between the VANOS unit and the front cross member?
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      10-25-2010, 06:59 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMetal View Post
Hopefully you're correct and my '08 should have the new bolts
It should.
There was a member with a mid '07 MY that inspected his and found the new style bolts.

There's thread here some where with the info.
We still don't know when in the '07 MY that the change was made though.

[edit]
found the Vanos thread by Blind32

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blind32
2007 Z4M Coupe with a production date of 12/2006 .....
.... there wasn't any damage to them and they seemed to be torqued to spec when I removed them. When I got down to them, I expected to see hex bolts but mine were torx and looked exactly like the new bolts
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Last edited by inTgr8r; 10-25-2010 at 07:36 AM..
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      10-25-2010, 07:45 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
It should.
There was a member with a mid '07 MY that inspected his and found the new style bolts.

There's thread here some where with the info.
We still don't know when in the '07 MY that the change was made though.

[edit]
found the Vanos thread by Blind32
Good find. Blind32's car was 12/22/06 I think.
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      10-25-2010, 09:21 AM   #26
Ron Stygar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
It should.
There was a member with a mid '07 MY that inspected his and found the new style bolts.

There's thread here some where with the info.
We still don't know when in the '07 MY that the change was made though.

[edit]
found the Vanos thread by Blind32
536 superceded at 09/2007. Click on NA to see.

http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsR...iagram=11_3004

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...1&postcount=56
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      10-25-2010, 09:33 AM   #27
inTgr8r
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post
Thanks Ron.

If it was superceded 09/2007, I wonder if that was engine production date or car assembly date?
If engine date, then it's hard to know when that engine made it to car assembly.
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      10-25-2010, 09:48 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onebluemcm View Post
Is this job potentially harder to do on a Z4 compared to an M3 because of the clearance between the VANOS unit and the front cross member?
Yes.
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      10-25-2010, 10:02 AM   #29
Ron Stygar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inTgr8r View Post
Thanks Ron.

If it was superceded 09/2007, I wonder if that was engine production date or car assembly date?
If engine date, then it's hard to know when that engine made it to car assembly.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23433

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      10-25-2010, 10:47 AM   #30
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Much appreciated Ron.
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      10-25-2010, 11:38 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O-cha View Post
I don't think it's the bolts themselves, Just that when replaced they are torqued properly and locktighted. The bolts are the same grade as far as I know.
The new style bolts just mean that they are torqued properly, and not that the bolts themselves have anything to do with it? Is the problem that over-torquing the old-style bolts is causing them to shear?

Sorry for the flood of questions, but is this something someone with basic mechanical knowledge can check (not replace) themselves? From the pictures it looks like you can just pop off a few covers and take a look. The last thing I want to do is make a trip to a good S54 tech that's several hundred miles out of the way, only to find out that I actually have properly-torqued bolts.
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      10-25-2010, 11:41 AM   #32
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IIRC the only difference is new bolts have a thread lock on them. (other than being Torx)
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      10-25-2010, 03:57 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches View Post
The new style bolts just mean that they are torqued properly, and not that the bolts themselves have anything to do with it? Is the problem that over-torquing the old-style bolts is causing them to shear?

Sorry for the flood of questions, but is this something someone with basic mechanical knowledge can check (not replace) themselves? From the pictures it looks like you can just pop off a few covers and take a look. The last thing I want to do is make a trip to a good S54 tech that's several hundred miles out of the way, only to find out that I actually have properly-torqued bolts.
No you won't be able to check them without the tools to retime the motor, because you will have to retime it as soon as the bolts for the vanos gear are loosened and especially when it's removed.
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      10-25-2010, 04:09 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O-cha View Post
The bolts are the same grade as far as I know.
Correct. Both 8.8.
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      10-25-2010, 04:24 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O-cha View Post
No you won't be able to check them without the tools to retime the motor, because you will have to retime it as soon as the bolts for the vanos gear are loosened and especially when it's removed.
How would one know if the motor was timed correctly? I have had my vanos replaced three times now. This third time, my fuel economy has gone down drastically.
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      10-25-2010, 04:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by O-cha View Post
No you won't be able to check them without the tools to retime the motor, because you will have to retime it as soon as the bolts for the vanos gear are loosened and especially when it's removed.
Thanks! Guess I'll be making a stop by Orlando when I drive across the country early next year...
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      10-25-2010, 06:21 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shereef_Osman View Post
How would one know if the motor was timed correctly? I have had my vanos replaced three times now. This third time, my fuel economy has gone down drastically.
Vanos replacement is not the same thing as what we are talking about. Vanos can be replaced without retiming. As for checking timing, it requires a tool "gauge" and it's damn hard to check because the vanos pistons don't like to move (you have to move them to full stop). It's almost easier to retime the motor then to actually just check the timing.

There's a hole in each cam and the tool sits in it, if its flat its timed correctly, if not, not.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pokeybritches View Post
Thanks! Guess I'll be making a stop by Orlando when I drive across the country early next year...
If for no other reason then to check out some fast cars.
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      10-25-2010, 08:32 PM   #38
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^ Thanks for the explanation. Would you have to retime the motor if you change the cam lobes?
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      10-25-2010, 08:33 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shereef_Osman View Post
^ Thanks for the explanation. Would you have to retime the motor if you change the cam lobes?
Camshaft? Yes, of course.
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      10-25-2010, 08:36 PM   #40
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They replaced those the third time as well, lol. So what would one notice if the motor weren't timed correctly from a drivers perspective?
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      10-25-2010, 08:39 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shereef_Osman View Post
They replaced those the third time as well, lol. So what would one notice if the motor weren't timed correctly from a drivers perspective?
Loss of power, rough running, possible misfires ETC.
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      10-25-2010, 08:42 PM   #42
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^ So basically it would be quite obvious, got it. Thanks.
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      10-25-2010, 08:43 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shereef_Osman View Post
^ So basically it would be quite obvious, got it. Thanks.
Not necessarily it depends on how bad it was, could be unnoticeable other then a little horsepower you can't be sure of.
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      10-27-2010, 05:06 PM   #44
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vanos info

Thanks everyone for the very detailed info. I'll think about it and check the production of my car and during the winter make a decision- No BMW tech locally that I would want doing this ( may have to get 1 of our Audi techs to help-can possibly borrow the special tools )
Thanks again
Wayne
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