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11-23-2013, 03:14 PM | #23 | |
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Quote:
You cannot check the tightness unless you use a torque wrench. Feeling the noise in the firewall is almost always the braces. On a related note get some nord-locks (see my post for part numbers) so you don't have to re-torque down the line.
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11-23-2013, 03:28 PM | #24 |
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^Yup. With "old style" bolts nordlocks work great. Blue locktite works well too, 20K miles, 15 track days, no clunk. Nordlocks are the preferred option though! (The one use bolts probably don't need them due to the improved design and stretch bolt/angle torque.)
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11-25-2013, 04:22 PM | #26 |
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Thats the second time you've asked. You could have either read the rest of the thread (your thread) and saw where I posted, or looked at the linked thread for more detail.
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11-26-2013, 09:35 AM | #27 |
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I don't think anyone further explained my question when I posted it. 36nm was IMO too much for those bolts and a further reasoning as to why they would be 36nm was what I wanted. I know you posted it I just wanted to know why.
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11-26-2013, 09:39 AM | #28 |
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And for the record I did read the posted link for the other thread.
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11-26-2013, 11:05 AM | #29 |
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Again, all the info required was in the first response I gave (post #3 in this thread). Links to part numbers, torque reference, the BMW SIB.
Here's the direct link to the SIB. http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...9&postcount=91 |
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11-26-2013, 03:58 PM | #30 |
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My apologies, I missed the SIB link in your original post.
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