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11-21-2012, 07:43 AM | #1 |
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Need for speed..
Beside the obvious (CAI,Exhaust,ECU) what else can I do to get some more power? Without going crazy and supercharging anything else I can bolt on so I can stomp on my friends Subaru..
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11-21-2012, 09:15 AM | #2 |
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Light weight flywheel, Performance ignition coils, complete fluid change (motor, tranny, rear end), re-gear the rear end, tune.
The ones you mentioned make the other more effective.
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11-21-2012, 02:20 PM | #4 |
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CAI and Exhaust are not proven to give more power. If you did the full exhaust: a freer flowing cat + x-pipe + exhaust it's more likely, but no one has posted dynos to prove it. Headers will still provide more power than full exhaust.
Proven ways to increase speed: euro headers, tune, more aggressive differential gearing. The other thing you can do is lose weight: racing seats, lightweight battery, lightweight wheels, etc. Losing weight is often overlooked, but if you look at the 2012 cayman R (which has a 4.2 0-60) it has virtually the same HP/torque figures as the Z4 M but weighs 100+ lbs less. There are a LOT of other differences (PDK, etc.) but you get the idea.
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11-21-2012, 02:44 PM | #5 |
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^ +1 hammer....nail....on head
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'21 M2C Hockenheim Silver
'18 718 Cayman S Lava Orange (sold) '13 E92 M3 Santorini Blue (sold) '07 Z4 M Coupe Alpine White (sold) |
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11-21-2012, 06:42 PM | #6 |
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Torque is what shoves you down the road.
Excluding a supercharger ($5-7K), a rear differential swap at $3K is the biggest bang for the buck. You get 11% more 'effective' torque out of a 4.11 gear set, at the expense of top end speed, which you'll probably never use in a convertible anyway. I rarely see >130. The diff swap is also visually indistinguishable from stock, if that matters. |
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11-21-2012, 09:45 PM | #8 |
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headers, gears, and a tune to take advantage of the headers. Everything else is a waste of money.
and then you'll get a supercharger when you realized you spent $3000 to make 30rwhp
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11-21-2012, 09:51 PM | #9 |
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OP - are you able to turn off traction control off.... hit sport mode and take off as fast as possible form a red light without loosing traction?
I ask.... cus I couldn't. Even thought I need new tires, I practice every time I get a chance and without loosing traction - When I do that I can see the speedometer clime up much quicker. One time at a red light a dude in a little KIA with a loud exhaust got on my left side and rev it few times... I looked at him - it was clear he wanted some.... when the light turned green I sat on the same spot burning my tires while he took off.... once I changed to 2nd gear I caught up to him and past him - by the time I shift to 3rd... he was tiny in my rear view mirror... you know what I mean? Don't floor it in 1st or 2nd... learn that trick and let me know if that helps. I totally agree with what other members have suggested and I'm heading that way. I already have euro headers, I added my name to the list to buy DKF straight S-pipes and I'm ordering my tune this weekend. Now that it's cold/winter I hope to find me a good deal on ultra high perf summer tires. AND I'll be killing the mod-bug once and for all..... I hope ![]() Drive safe. Jeff. |
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11-21-2012, 09:54 PM | #10 | |
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1. Sport mode makes it really really difficult to launch this car at the limit of slip and optimal acceleration. 2. I have GOOD tires, and when they're warm, I go full throttle in 2nd AND 1st gear putting down at least 400rwhp with minimal wheelspin 3. The ideal launch isn't without wheelspin. Its with about 10% wheelspin get some better tires, hit a real place you can learn to launch a car without going to jail (quarter mile racetrack), and then come back with advice. I don't like calling people out, but I couldn't just let this "advice" sit here.
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11-21-2012, 10:00 PM | #11 |
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Well... if I do.... I'll be smoking my tires and not moving much.... I'm sure my tires have a lot do with the problem... the trick is to push the car to the point where it barely looses some traction.... my opinion.
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11-21-2012, 10:19 PM | #12 | |
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What size/brand tires do you have on right now and how cold is it outside? I'm not arguing the point that you need to push the car until it barely loses some traction, just the sport mode, your full throttle comment as its all because of your tires/pressures/temperature
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11-21-2012, 10:21 PM | #13 |
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The topic of launching this car deserves a whole seperate thread, cause we didn't even begin talking about how to modulate the clutch and what RPM to launch at.... 2 more huge factors in laying down a good launch
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11-21-2012, 10:36 PM | #14 | |
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Z - I cant remember the exact model name right now.... but I know they are Yokahama.... and I know for sure they are not high performance tires. Last time I tried this it was about 80 some degrees few weeks ago.... I def have no traction in 2nd gear around 4 - 5 k ![]() |
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11-21-2012, 10:52 PM | #16 | |
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11-21-2012, 11:21 PM | #17 | |
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Just wanted to chime in that it really isn't that much if you look around. Gears can be bought then shot peened, REM polished and installed in your existing diff for less than 1k.
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An NA car should have no issues with traction with warm summer tires. First I can only spin if I intentionally try to, second all I get is a chirp if I have a good shift. A 4.10 diff with 275/35 rear tires is almost exactly 15% more torque. That's a little bit more torque than ESS stage 1.
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Last edited by beta; 11-21-2012 at 11:34 PM.. |
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11-22-2012, 04:46 AM | #18 |
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OP, Buy a Corvette. If your friend has a WRX STi, you are not going to keep up.
Jeff: Tire smoking and street racing Kia's? How old are you? Last edited by Yeggman; 11-22-2012 at 04:49 AM.. Reason: na |
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11-22-2012, 07:45 AM | #19 |
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11-22-2012, 01:57 PM | #20 | |
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REs are def in my radar.... Any thoughts on Toyo R888? My car is loud enough already so tire noise shoudn't bother me.... http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Toyo/R888.htm Yeg... I'm 93 |
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11-24-2012, 10:41 AM | #22 |
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