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      06-22-2012, 10:34 AM   #23
kennyfrc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim View Post
24,009 miles. The engine ran strong before the valve adjustment and is running strong...

That is after I connected the oxygen sensor cables correctly. Before that it was idling fine but hesitated a lot. I only made it around the block before pulling into my garage. I checked each coil quickly and no problems, then switched the O2 sensor wires. I thought that they would only go on one way. Turns out you can get them mixed up.
What gaskets/O-rings did you replace besides the valve cover?
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      06-22-2012, 12:48 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyfrc View Post
What gaskets/O-rings did you replace besides the valve cover?

I just replaced the spark plug gaskets, oil drain plug washers and the vanos pressure limiting valve filter and o-rings (parts 4,5 and 6). I left the vanos sealing plate (part 7) alone and undisturbed.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=11&fg=15&hl=7
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      06-22-2012, 02:53 PM   #25
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Turner Motorsports used to sell a complete kit. I haven't checked their site lately, but it was a nice all-in-one package, it even had the copper washers.
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      06-22-2012, 03:15 PM   #26
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I say we get a few cars together in the tri-state area and do a Valve adjust gang bang if you will
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      06-25-2012, 11:09 PM   #27
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Just did the valve clearances at 72,000km this past weekend. Intake valves 1, 5, 7, 8, 9 & 11 all required 0.04mm thicker shims. Exhaust valves 1, 6 & 12 all required 0.04mm thinner shims.

Overall, a mega maintenance weekend with an extensive replacement set:

Engine oil & filter
Transmission oil (Pentosin MTF2)
Differential oil (Castrol SAF-XJ)
Valve adjustment
Air filter
Cabin filter
Other inspection II 'inspections'
Engine coolant
Vanos filter & 'o' rings
Spark plugs
Alternator & air conditioning belts
Engine mount bolts torque check
Front & rear brake rotors & pads
Parking brake springs
Stainless steel brake lines & brake bleed with ATE typ 200
CDV delete & clutch bleed

The car now feels stronger and smoother than ever before!
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      06-26-2012, 09:09 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
Just did the valve clearances at 72,000km this past weekend. Intake valves 1, 5, 7, 8, 9 & 11 all required 0.04mm thicker shims. Exhaust valves 1, 6 & 12 all required 0.04mm thinner shims.

Overall, a mega maintenance weekend with an extensive replacement set:

Engine oil & filter
Transmission oil (Pentosin MTF2)
Differential oil (Castrol SAF-XJ)
Valve adjustment
Air filter
Cabin filter
Other inspection II 'inspections'
Engine coolant
Vanos filter & 'o' rings
Spark plugs
Alternator & air conditioning belts
Engine mount bolts torque check
Front & rear brake rotors & pads
Parking brake springs
Stainless steel brake lines & brake bleed with ATE typ 200
CDV delete & clutch bleed

The car now feels stronger and smoother than ever before!
That is quite a few tight exhaust valves, valve stretch or seat recession I guess.
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      06-26-2012, 10:31 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
That is quite a few tight exhaust valves, valve stretch or seat recession I guess.
Very interesting! Maybe he adjusted the intakes' to the lower end and the exhausts' to the higher end?
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      06-26-2012, 11:38 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pheonix View Post
Very interesting! Maybe he adjusted the intakes' to the lower end and the exhausts' to the higher end?
Could be, sure. I had one, and it wasn't that tight, so I landed it in the middle. Some you can't land in the middle, but I usually go more towards loose than tight, especially for cylinders 5 and 6.
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      06-26-2012, 09:59 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
That is quite a few tight exhaust valves, valve stretch or seat recession I guess.
This is the before and after picture, each adjusted to be as far away from the spec limits as i could:

Intake
1- 0.23->0.19
2- 0.19
3- 0.22
4- 0.22
5- 0.23->0.19
6- 0.22
7- 0.23->0.19
8- 0.23->0.19
9- 0.23->0.19
10- 0.20
11- 0.23->0.19
12- 0.21

Exhaust
1- 0.26->0.30
2- 0.29
3- 0.30
4- 0.29
5- 0.29
6- 0.28->0.31
7- 0.31
8- 0.30
9- 0.29
10- 0.29
11- 0.29
12- 0.28->0.32

Only one valve was out of spec (exhaust valve 1).

I may have just had most of the intake valves adjust to the top of the limit and the exhaust valves adjusted to the bottom of the limit by the dealer at Inspection I, but the engine is somewhat smoother and slightly quieter now.
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      06-27-2012, 09:01 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerobod View Post
This is the before and after picture, each adjusted to be as far away from the spec limits as i could:

Intake
1- 0.23->0.19
2- 0.19
3- 0.22
4- 0.22
5- 0.23->0.19
6- 0.22
7- 0.23->0.19
8- 0.23->0.19
9- 0.23->0.19
10- 0.20
11- 0.23->0.19
12- 0.21

Exhaust
1- 0.26->0.30
2- 0.29
3- 0.30
4- 0.29
5- 0.29
6- 0.28->0.31
7- 0.31
8- 0.30
9- 0.29
10- 0.29
11- 0.29
12- 0.28->0.32

Only one valve was out of spec (exhaust valve 1).

I may have just had most of the intake valves adjust to the top of the limit and the exhaust valves adjusted to the bottom of the limit by the dealer at Inspection I, but the engine is somewhat smoother and slightly quieter now.
Those specs look really good! Exhaust valve 1 was an easy fix at .04mm increment too, put it right in the middle.
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      06-28-2012, 09:44 PM   #33
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Ok people, I already ordered and received my shims and all the things I'm going to need.http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-Z4-M_Ro...cal/ES1893858/

I'm also following the videos below part 1 & 2. for reference and that because the dealer wants $1200 plus tax



http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=SoYVubj9y5U#!

Last edited by JeffchaPz; 06-28-2012 at 09:59 PM..
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      06-29-2012, 12:52 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeffchaPz View Post
Ok people, I already ordered and received my shims and all the things I'm going to need.http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-Z4-M_Ro...cal/ES1893858/

I'm also following the videos below part 1 & 2. for reference and that because the dealer wants $1200 plus tax



http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...v=SoYVubj9y5U#!
Not a tough job just time consuming because you need to methodical and careful.
Once you have done it once you realize dealer cost is not expensive, in most cases its just plain gouging.

Good luck
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      08-19-2012, 02:17 PM   #35
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For those of you who have DIY the valve job,

How are you rotating the engine over?

Wrench on the cam?

Special tool on the crank?
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      08-19-2012, 03:50 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennyfrc View Post
For those of you who have DIY the valve job,

How are you rotating the engine over?

Wrench on the cam?

Special tool on the crank?
32mm socket on the end of the crank. Don't use anything to just turn one cam, you can cause damage to the chain, chain tensioner or cam itself.
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      08-19-2012, 04:33 PM   #37
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I just put my car in 4th gear and pushed it forward to rotate the cams. When I ran out of garage space, put it in neutral and walked it back. You only need to move the car a few inches to get to the next cam position.
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      08-19-2012, 10:36 PM   #38
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^We tried that for about two seconds, (but then we had it 1st not 4th) the wrench meothod while a pain in the wrist was the better way to do it. Just have to reach down, put the socket on first then the wrench on the socket.
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Last edited by STIHLBOLTS; 08-20-2012 at 11:08 AM..
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      08-20-2012, 11:42 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bignosejim View Post
I just put my car in 4th gear and pushed it forward to rotate the cams. When I ran out of garage space, put it in neutral and walked it back. You only need to move the car a few inches to get to the next cam position.
+1, I have a short garage too, made for a long(er) day, but works really well.
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