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      10-06-2011, 12:20 PM   #1
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Z4 Aero Brake Duct Retrofit

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Last edited by v3.0si; 10-09-2011 at 06:36 PM..
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      10-06-2011, 12:20 PM   #2
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Update @ 9:40pm, Fri. 07, 2011

This is a DIY on installing brake cooling ducts in an E85/E86 Aero front bumper. It will require permanently modifying the fender liner, as well as the faux grilles on the bumper.

I have not tested the actual temperatures at which these are effective; therefore I make no claims this DIY works any better than any other retrofit. It works as an air guide through the front cover to the front brakes directly. The steps below can be modified as you see fit for your own installation to better suit your own needs. An example of this is the amount of trimming done to the latter shown “port”. I have chosen to keep the length of the port quite long, thus giving a more finished look. Trimming the port length down will dramatically enhance airflow and, theoretically, performance (In this case, the port is angled in relation to the air flow entering it at speed. By shortening one side of the port, a constriction is removed, allowing a more direct channel for the air to flow through.).

This mod also requires the relocation of the ambient air temp sensor. I have chosen to go the E36 route and mount it in the brake duct itself. It is well protected, and still reads quite accurately.

You will also notice that the port tapers into the much larger inner duct. This means that during events where substantial amounts of water are entering these ducts (i.e. a car wash, following another car during a wet track event, etc…), water will run forward in the duct and into the bottom of the bumper. The lower corner shields of the bumper already have draining, and all electronics are up and out of the way. No damage should occur to your car… just know that this will happen. If you wish, simply add a drainage vent to the lower shield.

BE VERY CAREFUL AND TAKE YOUR TIME. It took me roughly 10 hours to do the test fitting for just one side, but I’m confident that following these steps will cut that time down to less than 4 hours for both sides.

Feel free to PM me if you need help or ideas for your own setup.

Again, this is my solution. I do not, and will not, claim to be the next Dark Schnitzer… If you have a better idea, please feel free to start your own thread.

A full update will follow in the next day. This will include the how-to and pics.

____>

1) Purchase list…

a. Left Brake Duct - PN 51.74.7.138.413 (Note that the ETK diagram is incorrect. Callout #5 is accurate.)
b. Right Brake Duct - PN 51.74.7.138.414 (Note that the ETK diagram is incorrect. Callout #5 is accurate.)
c. Qty 2 - BMW liner bolts PN 07.14.7.129.160
d. Qty 2 - Port Kits, PN 268-352 from partsexpress.com (there will be left over parts)
e. Qty 2 - 24" zip ties.

____>

2) Consider also, but not required, list…

a. Universal Weather Seals
b. Weatherstrip Adhesive
c. Painter’s Tape

Last edited by v3.0si; 10-08-2011 at 04:10 PM..
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      10-06-2011, 12:21 PM   #3
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UPDATE - 5:00pm, Sat. 08, 2011



3) Trim each brake duct like so…

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4) Additional weather sealing can be added here…

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5) Trim the filleted edge like so. The fillet (lip) is what will keep the port from falling into the bumper…

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Make sure not to cut deeper than the height of the blade! A little over half is best. See below...

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Now cut perpendicular to your first cut. This is what will keep the port from falling out of the bumper...

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6) Trim the back of the port like so…


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7) Remove the fog lamp access panel…

8) Use the fender side of the Passenger’s side duct to trace your cutout for the Driver’s side duct (mirror for the Passenger’s side)…

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Be careful not to cut into the support plate and bar, and also the wiring. All are marked in yellow below.

If I had it all to do over again, I would shift the exit of the duct down by roughly 1/4". Direction of red arrow below.

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9) Additional weather sealing can be added around the duct exit hole if you so choose.

10) Find the center of where the duct will go on the face of the faux grille and mark your radius. Make sure your radius is smaller than that of the outer-most edge of the port (we don’t want it to fall through and into the bumper). Also note the faint vertical, shiny line in the center of the faux grille. This is where the molding “T”s behind it, mating with the radiator air baffle. This is the reason for the off center placement for the port…


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11) Cut out the circle, but be careful! Make sure you leave the "frame" of the faux grill intact. Do not cut the tabs that hold the grille onto the bumper. After the hole is cut, this is your chance to sand down any grossness caused by the blade. See arrow below...


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12) Remove the lower liner bolts and fender arch rivets…

13)
Bend the horn up and out of the way…


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14) Slide the port in place from inside the bumper. The lip of the port will keep it from falling in whereas the trimmed fillet will keep it from falling out. It’s its own attachment…

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15) For the driver’s side duct only, drill a hole for mounting the ambient air temp sensor. 8mm is a bit small. 9mm is a bit large, but it will still stay in there without fear of it falling out…


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16)
Slide the trimmed duct in behind the port. The step-down on the inner top edge will slide into the open spot between the radiator air baffle and the back side of the port. I have added 2 black self-tapping screws into the front for the duct and into the radiator baffle for additional support (marked in blue below)…


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17)
Use a liner screw to anchor the back of the duct to the liner...


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18)
Use a large zip tie to stabilize the front of the duct. This will be what holds a majority of the weight, keeping the screws from egging out larger holes. I went around the horn on each side.

19) On the driver’s side, insert the ambient air temp sensor into the mounting hole.

20) Reinstall liner clips, and bolts.

21) Trim the fog lamp access panel like so (if you need more clearance for tires, consider purchasing the ///m brake ducts, cut the ducts off, and use just the panel)…


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22) Enjoy cooler brakes!

Last edited by v3.0si; 10-08-2011 at 05:07 PM..
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      10-06-2011, 12:33 PM   #4
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Looks interesting. Looking forward to seeing more details.
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      10-06-2011, 01:56 PM   #5
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WOW... i found myself a winter DIY project for next season!
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      10-06-2011, 02:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubbedown View Post
WOW... i found myself a winter DIY project for next season!
it won't take you that long.
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      10-06-2011, 05:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v3.0si View Post
it won't take you that long.
Hope you took pics and documented the install. Did you end up using Pegasus for parts? Also any issues when the wheel is at full lock?

How come your lower grill "divider" is so shiny?
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      10-06-2011, 05:31 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubbedown View Post
Hope you took pics and documented the install. Did you end up using Pegasus for parts? Also any issues when the wheel is at full lock?
i have just the driver's side done. i plan on disassembling it, documenting, mirroring for the passenger's, writing up the DIY, and posting all by saturday night.

i have no idea who Pegasus is...? what you see above is a mix between E90LCI brake ducts and an internal bass port from partsexpress.com. it sounds ghetto when i say it out loud, but it actually works pretty well.

no issues that i've seen from full lock, but i'll keep an eye on it. the air guide does not go through the fog lamp access panel. instead, i've positioned the exit farther in, and slightly lower, than the ///m cars' duct exit. it seemed silly to me to dump the air onto the tire when going straight. the way i have it positioned, the air is sent inside. a better way to say it is... with the wheel is straight and you're looking through the duct, you can directly see the brakes, knuckle, etc.
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      10-06-2011, 05:57 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v3.0si View Post
i have just the driver's side done. i plan on disassembling it, documenting, mirroring for the passenger's, writing up the DIY, and posting all by saturday night.

i have no idea who Pegasus is...? what you see above is a mix between E90LCI brake ducts and an internal bass port from partsexpress.com. it sounds ghetto when i say it out loud, but it actually works pretty well.

no issues that i've seen from full lock, but i'll keep an eye on it. the air guide does not go through the fog lamp access panel. instead, i've positioned the exit farther in, and slightly lower, than the ///m cars' duct exit. it seemed silly to me to dump the air onto the tire when going straight. the way i have it positioned, the air is sent inside. a better way to say it is... with the wheels straight and you're looking through the duct, you can directly see the brakes, knuckle, etc.
Sorry in the other thread I had linked a site for Pegasus racing which sells race parts, which include brake cooling/ducting parts. Thought maybe you used those.

I look forward to your writeup. I didn't really get to push the car at the track last weekend but hope to do so at the next event. Better fluid and pads help but seems like you can't go wrong with enough cooling.

Curious to see how you actually routed the tubing. I hate the idea of having to cut any parts, even if it's fender but would do so if it were minimal. Since you've only done 1 side, you could technically test the effectiveness of your mod if you had access to a pyrometer & fun empty roads =)
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      10-06-2011, 06:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubbedown View Post
Sorry in the other thread I had linked a site for Pegasus racing which sells race parts, which include brake cooling/ducting parts.
i completely forgot about that! i think i even responded saying that was a good resource...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubbedown View Post
Since you've only done 1 side, you could technically test the effectiveness of your mod if you had access to a pyrometer & fun empty roads =)
empty roads... check
thermometer last used to quantify the wife's last illness... check

do you think she'll be mad if the next time she goes to use it it's melted, black, and smells of hell?
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      10-06-2011, 07:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubbedown View Post
How come your lower grill "divider" is so shiny?
just saw this question... sorry...

by "divider" do you mean the fang thingy? while yours is TiAg... on mine, the entire grille opening i had painted in Sophisto Gray Metallic.
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      10-06-2011, 08:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v3.0si View Post
i completely forgot about that! i think i even responded saying that was a good resource...
No worries... just wondering where you sourced your parts to get this. I'll just wait for the write-up =)


Quote:
Originally Posted by v3.0si View Post
just saw this question... sorry...

by "divider" do you mean the fang thingy? while yours is TiAg... on mine, the entire grille opening i had painted in Sophisto Gray Metallic.
Was referring to the circles areas, my black lower grills aren't reflective like yours.
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      10-06-2011, 09:57 PM   #13
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He painted the 'inside' of his Aero bumper with shiny paint.
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      10-06-2011, 10:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubbedown View Post
Was referring to the circles areas, my black lower grills aren't reflective like yours.
yessir! the areas you have circled are sophisto gray.
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      10-07-2011, 09:49 PM   #15
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update.

post #2 above.
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      10-08-2011, 11:07 PM   #16
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DIY is in.

post #3 above.
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      02-04-2013, 10:02 PM   #17
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Wouldn't it have been simpler to use the foglight holes? Or do they point in the wrong place, or not get enough airflow?
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      02-04-2013, 10:10 PM   #18
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Quote:
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Wouldn't it have been simpler to use the foglight holes? Or do they point in the wrong place, or not get enough airflow?
Yes as long as you don't mind permanently losing them since you'd have to install flanges behind them which would require trimming the rear of the bumper. At least with these you can always order extra lower grills. What made this mod so difficult was because Eric tried to retrofit the m brake ducts. Using hoses might've been easier.
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      02-05-2013, 08:12 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSC_OFF View Post
What made this mod so difficult was because Eric tried to retrofit the m brake ducts. Using hoses might've been easier.


it still looked good on the outside, and functioned well. the shortcomings were completely in the fit-and-finish behind the bumper.

-eric
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      02-05-2013, 08:29 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by v3.2mc View Post


it still looked good on the outside, and functioned well. the shortcomings were completely in the fit-and-finish behind the bumper.

-eric
Oh that was not a knock on my part. The final product looked great and seamless. I was just merely letting stig know why this DIY was so involved, 90% of the difficulty was trying to get everything to line up with the M ducts.
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      02-05-2013, 08:45 AM   #21
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Quote:
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Oh that was not a knock on my part. The final product looked great and seamless. I was just merely letting stig know why this DIY was so involved, 90% of the difficulty was trying to get everything to line up with the M ducts.
no offense was taken, dan.... we're all good.

i was just admitting you have a superior design. brake cooling should be taken all the way to the rotor.
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      02-05-2013, 03:37 PM   #22
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YOU are a brave man and quite a fabricator = I thought cutting a hole in the dash was a big deal !!
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