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03-28-2013, 11:02 AM | #1 |
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Radio sometimes wont work correctly
Well,
Just picked up my z4m. It has a problem, where sometimes I start the car, the radio turns on, and plays but at half volume with lots of static. Other times, I start the car, radio works fine. Other times, It will not produce any sound, and other times it will create static so loud I have to turn the car off immediately. I have no idea what it could be, but it is so annoying that I am debating bring the car back to the dealer I bought it from to have them fix it. However, I would rather fix it myself. Anyone have any idea what is causing this? I think it may have something to do with the ipod connection, or ignition. |
03-28-2013, 12:05 PM | #2 | |
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03-31-2013, 08:07 PM | #4 |
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Drives: '08 MC
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: NNJ
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First, congrats on finally getting the m! Curious which one you ended up getting.... white?
As for the radio, ive never heard of this problem but agree that starting with the amp makes sense. But if you do have aftermarket addons like ipod, then that could be it too. Frankly id take it back to the dealer depending on what dealer it was and the number of days since you possession.
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03-31-2013, 08:41 PM | #5 |
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The OEM stereo systems in our cars are more complicated than they need to be and if you have the Top Nav/Carver system the amps are known to be problematic. Definitely see if the dealer you bought it from can suss it out and fix it for you.
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04-01-2013, 12:32 AM | #6 |
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Mine will periodically have no sound output when the car is turned on. If I turn the key off and back on it works fine. This has happened twice in the past year or so. I assume it may be a glitch in the amp.
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04-02-2013, 09:46 AM | #8 |
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I came across a similar issue with my daughter’s 08 Coupe w/ NAV and premium sound last Christmas, the right channel would either produce static and/or had very low output, this of course happened intermittently.
I tried observing it more and it appeared that the symptoms only occurred when the CID unit was cold, once it “warmed” up either from the operation or the heat from the HVAC, the symptom was all but gone, one more thing – if I were to tap around the faceplate, I could also cause it to function properly. Could very well be a cracked PCB? After reading countless posts, it seemed to point to the rear amp, which was a costly proposition I wasn’t ready to proceed with. Then I thought about it could be a loose connection inside the CID since the tapping made it go away. Started sourcing a replacement CID and the online prices were around $500+ and I had to return the core, all for a refurbished unit. I ended up buying a CID from a parts car, the P/N predated my daughter’s by about 1 year but decided to give it a shot and prayed that there’s no coding required. The unit arrived and I swapped it, didn’t ask for a code and it worked fine controlling all the functions, no more problem with the right channel, and no need to code the vehicle. I wanted to have the original unit repaired so that I would have a spare. The OEM repair facility told me that they also needed the vehicle since they didn’t have the proper harness so I decided to wait a bit, meanwhile, the repair person also told me that the output on these units are soldered on a daughterboard which cannot be easily repaired, he also suspected the board or some connections were fractured (as in hairline cracks), which then later made contact when expanded. Not sure if your problem is the same but this swap worked for me. |
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04-02-2013, 02:45 PM | #9 | |
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My problem also occurs way more frequently when it is cold. When the car is warmed up, it either wont occur or very little. |
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