Battery Problem

[jdoublehcubed]

I'm having a strange battery problem. I think its probably the battery, but I wanted to throw this out there to make sure.

Yesterday after work, i got in the car, and it wouldn't start. I turn the key, all of the electrical stuff comes on, but the engine won't turn over. No clicking of the starter or anything. I try turning the key back and forth a few times. On the third or fourth try, I get about half a second of starter noise, but thats the only time.

I hooked it up to a friends car with jumper cables, and it started immediately, on the first try. I get home 40 minutes later (25 mile drive), shut it off in the driveway, and it won't start again, same symptoms.

I pulled the battery, its from November 2008, so pushing 6 years. Its a BMW sealed led acid. The charging dot is black. I brought it Pep Boys, and this is whats really killing me. They put it on their machine, and told me it tested good. Correct CCAs (600 something I think). They said it was at 12.2 V when I brought it in, and it took a small charge to 12.45 V.

Starter is obviously not the culprit. I'm thinking that 12.45 V is still a bit low on the battery, and obviously its 6 years old. Does this sound like an alternator problem?

I'm picking up a Deka EXT20L ($85 woo!) on my way home from work. I was going to original BMW battery back in the car and watch the voltage while I have my gf try to start the car.

I wish the damn BMW battery had just failed the pep boys battery test, it would be considerably less aggravating to deal with. Thoughts? Just a typically strange BMW battery failure?

[gas-can]

I vote battery.

If it was your alternator, you would have probably run out of juice on that 25 mile drive. Unless the alternator is intermittent (like bad brushes). But I would have imagined you would have gotten a dummy light then.

I'm rather wary of those dine and dash places and the way they sometimes test these batteries. The battery voltage doesn't tell you much by itself- unless you are doing the test under a full load.

Have you noticed if the crank times have been slowly getting longer? especially when it's cold? That was what made me change mine. It was the original too and my car's the same year as yours.

-gc

[WAMz4]

Watch your instrument panel lights. I had this same problem a month or so ago. I thought it was the battery until I noticed the radio and all other lights come on, but NOT the instrument panel lights i.e. speedo, rpm and status indicator lights were not coming on until i turn the key on and off a few times. As soon as the panel light come on, the car would start.
If this is happening to you have them check your ignition switch. I took mine to the dealer and they were able to verify and replace the ignition switch under warranty.

[Blind32]

Also could be the clutch switch.

[jdoublehcubed]

Originally Posted by Blind32

Also could be the clutch switch.

I think if that was the case, jumping it from another car wouldn't immediately solve the problem. If someone can think of a reason this isn't true, please chime in, because that switch never occurred me.

[gghg]

Really does sound like the battery, 6 years is getting up there for a battery and 12.45 volts is low, voltage should be closer to 13V (average 2.2V/Cell). It maybe too late now, but when I store my car for the winter I remove the battery and place a smart charger on it (Ctec), seems to increase the life by a few years. If the battery won't "hold a charge" it doesn't matter how long you run the car for. Hope it helps

[elerner61]

Originally Posted by jdoublehcubed

I think if that was the case, jumping it from another car wouldn't immediately solve the problem. If someone can think of a reason this isn't true, please chime in, because that switch never occurred me.

I've got a clutch stop installed and when it's hot out and the car/engine is hot I sometimes have to depress the clutch more. Yes, I realize I need to adjust the clutch stop. My point is if you a also have one installed it's something to consider.

[jdoublehcubed]

Originally Posted by elerner61

I've got a clutch stop installed and when it's hot out and the car/engine is hot I sometimes have to depress the clutch more. Yes, I realize I need to adjust the clutch stop. My point is if you a also have one installed it's something to consider.

I have a clutch stop also, will definitely watch out for that problem.

[Clearancediver]

Check out threads on ignition switch issues. Not saying it is your problem but interesting reading on intermittent issues it causes. Appears to be a DIY project with the part priced at $60+....

[jdoublehcubed]

picked up the Deka EXT20L yesterday and fabbed a mount for it. The OEM battery mount base (big plastic tray) makes it super easy.

stud terminals are supposed to arrive from Amazon today, should be able to get it installed and take some photos.

kind of amazed that I could find the Deka available locally no problem, but none of the parts guys I talked to had any idea what I meant when I asked for the stud terminals.

[chickdr]

This car is your DD? Are you sure you want such a small battery in there? Only 310 CCA...

[pelerojo]

You may want to look at battery cables and condition of terminals. If they were bad or in poor condition it may act as if the battery was bad even when it is solid. When jumping the car I assume you used the jump points and this by-passed the cables and terminals. There are some other posts out there on the cables going.

[jdoublehcubed]

just got the new battery installed, started right up no problem. i let it run for about 10 minutes and shut it off, then started it up again about half an hour later, again no problem.